One more thing about making coal loads- I used built up glued pieces of balsa wood for one load, which I was then able to cut and sand to shape a “modern” coal load which has been processed mechanically by the loader equipment, but then I tried using white styrofoam, found free as computer packaging. Despite using a razor knife, it is far too “crumbly” for me. I had a piece of plant foam, such as one uses to stick flowers in, but while it cut easier, it produced very fine particles which were as annoying to deal with as the white styrofoam ones were. So- is there a cheap mixable material I can make " molded" loads with, which is easier to work with, rather than filing, rasping, shaving, etc just to get a shape going? Something I could get cheaply and use that I could work with as it sets, to individualize the shape of the load prior to attaching the “coal” to? Sorry- after this last post, I think I will get the hang of things… Cedarwoodron
Ya, foam packing material used for making pillows etc.
I have a bunch i got from shipments from work. Dark grey, didn’t have to paint it before hand.
Got the idea from watching Allen McClelland on the Allen Kellar V&O video tape.
Easy to “form” using scissors, check the fit in the car, don’t want it too tight unless you have no plans on removing it regularly, paint it black if necessary, glue the coal to it, place in hopper.
Gordon
Ron - have you given thought to using the extruded foam that some of us use for layouts? This is NOT the white beaded type you are referring to, it’s usually blue, pink, or maybe even green or yellow depending on brand name (but it’s essentially the same material). It can be cut with a very sharp knife or hot wire. Yes, it may still make a little mess, but not as much as the materials you’ve mentioned.
Gordon’s idea with the “grey” foam is also a good one, it’s the “squishy”, spongy type often found carry cases, sometimes with an “eggcrate” surface. See if a local upholstery shop has some seat-cushion foam scraps, it’s a very similar material.
Brad
I’ve used white florist foam and just painted it black with the dollar-store craft paint. Works really well.
I use scraps of extruded foam (pink) that are left over from the layout sub-surface. It only takes a few minutes to fit and form. After it is formed and shaped, I brush on a thick coat of black paint. While the paint is still wet, I sprinkle on some coal (mine run, lump, whatever you’re looking for) to cover. Once dry (next day), I sprinkle on some more to cover any thin areas or build up a little. I will then use a mix of elmers glue/water (just like for scenery/ground foam) to hold in place. Here’s a black-n-white shot…
That’s what I use. I cut the material to basic shape with a table or band saw, shape it by hand, paint the top black, and sprinkle “coal” onto the black paint while the paint is still wet. I’m not sure that there is a method that will allow variations in the top surface other than doing the shaping by hand, other than piling the coal material into the desireable shape and then finding a way to bond it in position similar to ballasting. My opinion is that this method would use more material than necessary.
Anyway, here are several photos showing a couple loads under construction and loaded into a Reading hopper and a Conrail H39.
I didn’t think of the foam sheeting used for layout bases! Sounds like a better deal than what I tried. Where are those weights from??? Cedarwoodron
They are called curtain or drapery weights. They get used in the bottom seams of window treatments to keep them hanging straight. My wife gets them in boxes of 100. The ones I use are lead, 1 X 1 inch, and weigh approximately 1/2 ounce each. The cost comes out to be about 13 cents each. I think you can get similar from the Joann Fabrics store. Be sure to use one of the weekly discount coupons.
I recognize that the cost of the weights seems high, and there will be a chorus of alternative, less expensive, options. They will be correct. However, there are some advantages. They are all uniform and fit nicely. Plus I don’t have the patience to be sitting around Goo-ing a bunch of pennies or cleaning used tire weights. And Goo in not inexpensive anymore, either.
By the way, I don’t glue the weights to the loads. I just throw one (or more if necessary) in each hopper bay. They don’t shift side to side or rattle.
You didn’t ask about the screws. One of them gets inserted into the top center of the load. If you are inclined to remove/replace the loads, a magnet is used to attract the screw heads. You can use anything with a flat head. The head gets covered with a little glue, plus the paint and coal. I think you can probably see a small dimple in one of the pictures.
“Maximum thanks” for your information!!! Cedarwoodron
Go to a hardware store and buy a tube of “Household, Amazing Goop”
It works really good foe weights, coupler boxes, shoe soles, tool handles, and lots of other gluing needs. I highly recommend it.
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/ag_adhesives.htm
The substrate under the coal can be amost anything, even flat sheet styrene (or card stock) supported by bulkheads inside the car (the bulkheads are part of the load, not the car.)
For ease of removal, incorporate a steel headless nail into the mound. When you want an empty, just wave a Kadee track magnet over it.
The key is to make the loads look similar, but not exactly the same. That’s my personal heartburn with pre-cast loads.
Unfortunately, due to a prototype design feature peculiar to my prototype, I can’t use removable one-piece loads. There are horizontal ties between the tops of the sides. So my free-running cars are loose-loaded with pool charcoal and my unit train loads are there for the ages - empties in, loads out.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)