Is it easy to make the transition from Walthers bode 83 to Atlas code 100 at a code 83 turnout? I realize that there are most likely other factors to consider but is it simply a matter of using transition rail joiners?
It’s not that big of a deal. Just use transition joiners, and make sure it lines up.
It’s a good idea to use something like a piece of styrene to support the code 83 section if a gap is left under the ties but as motley noted it’s pretty straight forward. Some people dont use joiners but jack up the code 83 track to meet the code 100.
I flatten the end of the rail joiner sticking out from the larger rail and solder the smaller rail to it, making sure to align the top and inside rail surfaces.
Mark
I believe that you will find that the ties on the Walthers code 83 track is thinner than what is used for Atlas code 100. So when you make the connection between the Walthers and the Atlas, you’ll end up with a void under the Walthers code 83 ties. If I remember correctly, the difference in height (or the void height if you will) is in the range of 0.022 inch. So, I use strip styrene of that thickness to act as a shim.
I wouldn’t worry about shims unless the code 83 track piece was between two code 100 pieces.
Mark
Walthers makes a section of “transition” track that is Code 83 on one end and Code 100 on the other. Phase 1 of my layout is Code 100, but for Phase 2 I decided to go with Code 83, which I like a lot better. I used one of these at the two points where the tracks come together. Each is about a 6-inch section of straight sectional track. I had to shorten one of them. These worked out very well, and I’ve had no trouble with them.
I worry a bit about joining the two different rail heights, as you said, “at a turnout.” If you’re joining a piece of flex track to the turnout, and that track is anything but straight, you are risking a kinked rail joint as well as a vertical displacement. It can be done, of course, but it’s something that you do need to be careful about. I would certainly plan to solder the joint to keep everything aligned.
Good Point. the OP could solder the Code 100 section to a code 83 and use standard rail joiners to connect the turnout. Also if the turnouts haven’t been purchased yet, Atlas offers pretty much everythign in both sizes so you could just order the code 100 version
If the Code 83 turnout is vertically thinner than the Code 100 flex, mount the turnout on a piece of something of that thickness. I have found that Atlas ‘Universal’ rail joiners will join Code 100 to Code 83 with nothing more complex than a sliver of styrene under the shallower rail. A little creative joiner crimping MIGHT be required to assure that the tops and gauge sides of the railheads line up.
If you really want to be sure that those two critical surfaces of the joining rails line up, solder a 25mm long piece of #22 uninsulated wire under the railheads on the outside, making sure that the center 7mm or so isn’t soldered. then tweak the railheads into alignment with needle nose pliers.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with code 100/Code 83 transitions)
As long as the joint between the two rail sizes is smooth on both the top surface and the inside face of the rails, you should have no problems. If the ties with the smaller rail are floating in mid-air near the joint, you can add a shim as necessary or simply do like the real railroads do and fill the void with ballast. Another option instead of a transition rail joiner is to use two regular joiners for each rail - leave the short section that joins them together as they come, and use a cut-off disc to remove one half of the length of each joiner on the “free” ends. Slip one half-joiner end onto the code 100, then the connected other half-joiner onto the code 83, then align the rail tops. The “tab” connecting the two half-joiners will ensure that the rails remain aligned, although I’d suggest soldering the half-joiners to both connected rails.
Wayne