What types of dyes would work well to produce transparent colors in Realistic Water by Woodland Scenics? I believe WS pigments would produce opaque results. If I am incorrect on this, please let me know…
Most people paint the base of the lake, pond, stream, whatever you are modeling rather than dying the water itself. That way you can vary the coloring under the water to get a realistic look to it. I wouldn’t add anything to the WS Realistic Water itself. It could change the properties of the product and you might get some very unexpected results. There are several threads on the forum about creating ponds, etc. Do a search on Water and you may have more info.
If painting/ scenicing the base isn’t enough, try washes between the layers. I was able to recreate algae/ pond scum with painting various greens and sprinkling WS fine grass T45. Dragging a toothpick across it in spots simulated critter trails.
One thing I would like to mention about the WS Realistic Water is, NEVER pour it any deeper than 1/8" at a time. For moving water I don’t mind using it, but I don’t think I will use the WS again for any flat bodies of water. I have noticed too much shrinkage over time causing blemishes/ dimples on the surface. All the larger water projects from now on will be done will Envirotex light. This has never failed in the past.
Bob K.
Have you ever used Rit Dyes? I believe they mix in water, and are readily available at the grocery store…
If you use acrylic paints between layers, that will surely result in less and less transparency, correct?
Did you use the ground foam between layers or just on top? Either way, I would think this would actually cause air bubbles to form around the foam…
Ray gave his thumbs-down before anyone else even had a chance to comment. It was days before the first useful answer showed up. This kind negative response discourages conversation, and that’s not fair to anyone. I don’t care how much of an expert you consider yourself.
I used EnviroTex, but I would think WS Realistic water would be very similar for this. When I put the first application down in an area of my creek, I wasn’t happy with the results being so clear. So I mixed up acrylic paint to have an olive green/drab color and applied a thin wao the top of the first layer. After drying, I put on the second application of EnviroTex and the result was a less clear and greeniinted stream.
REX
The ground foam was placed on a fresh pour, it actually sinks slightly into the WS water. There were no problems with any bubbles forming. I did various experimental pours when the WS Realistic Water first came out. It is easy to work with and great clean up but the product doesn’t seem to stand up like Envirotex.
Bob K.
Envirotex is great stuff for making things like ponds and such.
Here’s one pond I did on my layout using Envirotex:
(click to enlage image)
For more details on how to make realistic water like this using envirotex and dyes, with photos, see:
http://mymemoirs.net/model-trains/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=1377#1377
Frank,
I clicked onto your link. I have to day that on the “Gallery” section of your website, those pictures are impressive! Especially the yard scene with the locomotive repair shop.
And I take it that having the wash of paint between layers didn’t cause any problems with the next layer of Envirotex?
Hey, nice work! I’ll definitely check out the link you provided. Envirotex has been around forever, and I always avoided it because it had to be mixed. With results like this, you can hardly go wrong… and you probably didn’t have to wait for weeks like you do with Realistic Water, to allow the milkiness to disappear…
Thank you! Much appreciated! The cloud stencils really saved the day, because I’m not at all creative, and could never have painted these by hand. Also, I was able to salvage the very expensive backgrounds by removing the sky and using a building to hide the transitions from one background to the next.
I see comments that WS Realistic Water has shrinkage problems, and other comments recommending Envirotex to avoid this.
I have already applied Realistic Water to a slow moving river scene on my layout. If I see problems in the future with shrinkage, does anyone have a recommendation on how to fix this? Do I need to tear the scene out and try again, do I need to periodically add another coat of Realistic Water to fill in the gaps (and eventually “flood” the layout as the layers build up), or can I apply a coat of Envirotex on top of the cured Realistic Water to cap and seal it?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Tom
Absolutely no problems. The great thing about doing this between the layers is the results of the added wash gave the otherwise glass looking water a 3dimensional look. When I applied the wash, I tried not to make it a perfectly even coat, but more of a random flow look for a stream. Of course a pond wouldn’t have a flow look.
Also, with Envirotex you are ready to go with painting or touch up in about 24 hours. It takes about 3 days for a complete cure, but you can work with it in less than 24 hours.
Note: Just make sure that you are careful not to get any dust or debris anywhere near either of this methods until it has set. You don’t need a paint chip floating around[;)].
REX
Tom–I’ve got two rivers flowing into a fairly large lake on my layout, and used WS Realistic water with no shrinkage problems at all in the last two years. And my railroad is in an un-insulated garage (California Basement). I’ve also heard stories of shrinkage with WS, but have yet to experience it myself. However, my layout is foam-based rather than plywood, so that might have something to do with it.
Tom
I’ve noticed that WS Realistic Water shrinks as it sets. But after it has set, it is stable.
Nick
I can’t say for the WS stuff, but I painted my base with acrylic paints, and covered it with Krylon non firing pottery glaze from Hobby Lobby. It’s a lot cheaper that way. Click on my railimages link and there’s a pic on there of my lake.
Greg
Mine is foam-based as well, so hopefully I will experience the same positive results as you.
Thanks,
Tom
one thing i seriously recomend is that you follow the 1/8" at a time with the ws water…i wasn’t paying attention at first and poured about an 1 1/2" of the stuff and it stayed cloudy for about 2 months before it finally cured…it came out looking okay but i do not understand the shrinking comments…my water scenes are a few years old and i have noticed no shrinking yet…of course i just jinxed myself…damn