If you have built separate modules, and then linked them together, what method have you found to be the best for:
(1) Smooth track to track connections for unnoticeable joints.
(2) Electrical connections from module to module.
If you are building a semi-permanent layout with the idea that you want to be able to move it someday, connect the modules with carriage bolts and leave the track uncut until you actually have to move it. A track joint over a joint between modules is a problem waiting to happen. If the layout is going to be truly portable, then I’d investigate FreeMo or HOTrak or one of the other modular groups. They have various ways of connecting track across modules, some of which I find better than others.
John Timm
That is two different things. 1. Smooth track and 2. Unnoticeable joints.
For smooth track it is hard to beat the method of leaving the rails short of the edges and using a piece of flex track to “jump” between the modules (NMRA specifies 4.5" so that a standard 9" straight can be used for the jump). That way there is a rail joiner holding all four (eight) joints in place. BUT it is very noticable. Iit cannot be ballasted and the joiners on flex track leave gaps in the ties.
For unnoticable joints the best way is to hook the modules together in what ever method is going to be used. Then lay the track as if they aren’t modules. When done, fasten the track really good to the frame and then cut the rails flush on the joint with a razor saw. This of course dictates a specific module arrangment. With the “jumper” track arrangment the modules following that standard can be arranged in any order.
There are also companies that make telescoping track segments. I’ve never used these, so can’t comment. Other than they are quite noticable.
That is much easier. Run a power bus on the bottom of the modules with plugs between each. Put a jumper to the track from the bus on each module. That way the power is totally independent from the track. I also made my power supply with the same male/female plug so I can insert it in between any two modules. Reguardless of how the modules get connected I can put the power closest to where the “wall plug” is.
Not on point to your question but in joining my segments – I use the David Barrow “domino” approach of identically sized 2’ by 4’ segments – rather than use carriage bolts I buy threaded steel stock, 1/4", cut it to length, and use wing nuts (with washers to protect the wood) on both ends to fasten the segments. The advantage to wing nuts on both ends is that you can tighten them with your hands while standing up without having to use a wrench or without having to bend down and look up to see what you are doing. It might also be that the threaded stock saves a little money but I doubt it
Dave Nelson
This isnt ment for modular layouts that need to be connected to others, just your own.
Place a brass screw under each rail on each side of where the modules seperate, right on the edges (ie 2 screws per rail, 4 per track). Adjust the brass screws so they will just touch the bottoms of the tracks. Lay the tracks and after everthing is set and perfect solder the track to the screws. Cut between the screws with a Dremel or narrow razor saw. Blacken the rail and screws and ballast right to the edge. Almost invisible. The modules need a positive alignment method also. After they are bolted together (bolts are best) drill several (3 at least)1/4 inch holes and make some alignment pins from 1/4 inch steel rod and use them to align the sections if/when you take them apart. Hardest thing is adjustable legs if you are planning to move and show it a lot. Dang, nobody has a level smooth floor anywhere you go. I always found it easiest to just make all the legs the same length and level it with wood shingles and small blocks. The best method I found for power connectons on my own is to put brass screws at the edge, solder the feeders to them, and just use jumper wires (alligator clips) to hook the sections together. Fast to move and easy to troubleshoot. Fred