Just about time to start wiring up the control panel! I have Peco switch machines powered by 18VAC through a capacitor discharge unit and DPDT “momentary on” switches. One feed from the 18VAC supply goes to the center peg of the switch - should I then take a feed from this peg on to the next switch, then the next, then the next etc, so all switches are connected one to the next? Or should all the switch’s center pegs go to a single 18VAC feed, like a “star” system?
Since all of the switches require the same potential, either method will work. I personally wire each of my momentary switches separately, to a common screw terminal on a terminal strip, which is what I think you meant by your ‘star’ description. The reason is to simplify replacement of a defective switch without having to unsolder anything. Murphy is alive and well, and anything with moving parts will eventually fail.
I simply jump from one switch to the next. Minimizes the amount of wire you use and makes for neater and easier to follow wiring.
So there you have it - two posts and two different opinions. Whichever one you choose, don’t forget to have fun!
OK, how about a third option: run a strip of wire along one edge of the panel and then use short jumpers from each switch to that wire. Similar to a bus under thr track with short feeders.
For absolute ease of replacement, plus a handy way to solder all the switch terminals at the bench instead of under the control panel, I would go with the ‘star’ idea - for all terminals of the switch. These then connect to terminal strips at the edge of the panel which in turn lead under the layout - that way the entire panel can be disconnected, or an individual switch. Leave the wires long enough to neatly route around the edge of the panel and lace them together, either the old telephone lineman’s way with a waxed twine or with some of that spiral plastic used for organizing wires - it comes in various sizes, not just ‘giant’ for line cords. Neatness counts. The end result will be a panel with easy to replace components and without a jumble of wires hiding behind it.
–Randy
Randy, sounds like you’ve been looking over my shoulder! The only thing I would add, which I failed to mention in my first post, was to come up with a consistent method of identifying devices and their associated wiring, and then label everything and document it on paper as well. Having done that has been a great stress reliever for me when incorporating ancient modules into my new layout.
I agree with Randy if you are going to run the turnouts from a control panel. Only having one wire per relay is going to be easier and use less wire in the long run and will be easier to troubleshoot when that time comes (notice I said when not if). On my layout, I like to be follow the trains around. Kinda like being actually the engineer and being somewhere near the train and since I usually operate solo, i put most of the stuff that would normaly go on the panel on the fascia right where I will be standing to operate the train. That way I don’t have to quick run back to the control panel and throw the switch and then run back to where the train is before it derails or … (well you get the idea). If your layout is usually going to operated by just you, you might want to consider that if yuo are planning on using any walk around throttle.
Great responses from everyone - thanks guys!
My instincts were to go with a “star” system, for ease of troubleshooting or removal of a single switch in future. The idea of having a “buss” wire that you drop feeders off every so often is also good. Would it be safe to have that buss wire uninsulated? Otherwise you’ll be trimming a small gap in the insulation every inch or so. I figure the OTHER 18VAC wire won’t need to go into the control panel - it will be going straight from the power supply to a buss under the layout to feed the “common” terminal on the switch motor.
I don’t have a recommendation but I do have a question. What gage wire are you using and what is the amp output of the power supply?
(Or is that two questions? Well now it’s three.)
Depends on what you are using as switch machines. Twin coils I would use the capacitor discharge supply and at least #18 wire. Much heavier will be hard to wire and not that great a benefit, unless it’s a very long run. In that case having the terminal strips again makes life easy - the short length of #18 inside the panel won;t hurt and the really long run under the layout can be heavier if needed.
For Tortoises, since they only draw 10-15ma each, you can use #22 or #24 - I use network cable, since I have a spare box full (1000’). It’s too expensive to buy for that purpose - thermostat or alarm wire is cheaper and will work just fine with a Tortoise.
–Randy
I agree 110%. Someday you WILL need that wiring diagram.
I’m going to try to use wire salvaged from scrap automotive harnesses–for one reason only. Automotive wire insulation is color coded (red with a green stripe, etc). Makes for easy identification of circuits. If you’ve ever had to sort thru a harness with 50 wires in it and multiple wires the same base color you’re looking for, that tracer makes life MUCH easier, especially when used in conjunction with a wiring diagram.
I used primarily the 8-pair rectangular exterior telephone cable that the phone company uses to run from a pole to a house in our area. It’s not available commercially, but when the phone guys were removing the (very) old single-wire lines from my house and adding the Network Interface Block and new cable, they gave me fifty feet of the stuff! [:D] Unforunately, I’ve used it all. [:(]
Three cables (two phone plus one commercial multi-conductor line after I ran out of the phone cable) are cable-tied together and run into the back of my NP Mainline (staging) control panel, where they attach to barrier strips. The wires inside the panel from the other side of the barrier strips lead to the individual switches. Power leads also go to a barrier strip, from which one power line connects to the center lug on the nearest SPDT switch, connecting daisy-chain fashion to the remaining switches. The other power line connects to the barrier strips that terminate the return leads from the turnout motors.
To me, connecting the power to the switches in a “star” (that’s termed by the wiring industry as “home run” fashion, by the way) would just result in an exploded-spaghetti-factory appearance inside the panel - wires running willy-nilly everywhere (Although I did try to route the wires in the panel neatly, I didn’t have any inclination to tie short wire runs into little bundles - the panel isn’t that complex). Changes may be a little more difficult with the daisy chain, but for the reduced clutter inside the panel, it will be worth it. New switch strings can always begin with a new home-run wire.
not entirely… I’m pretty sure it’s CAT5e (or something very similar) cable. it isn’t too expensive either. I’ve seen 1000 ft rolls for about $50. Granted it’s small wire (24 AWG i think) but it’ll suffice for small runs or feeder wire or something. Especially useful for wiring multiple things at the same place i would imagine - you can get the exterior sheathing in a multitude of colors (red,blue,white,grey,black,purple,green… and probably more), and theres 4 twisted pairs of wire within that.