As anyone else noticed that the centering whiskers on pastic Kadee clones just don’t work as well as the metal whiskers on the 148’s. I just acquired a few Bachmann cars Over the weekend and I have my work cut out this week replacing couplers.
Thats why inspite of all the clones, Kadees are still THE coupler in HO.
There is only two good brands of couplers KD and Walthers Protomax coupler.This is a all metal coupler based on KD#5 coupler.
When I started foolin with operateions I had so many issues with coulpers. I ran each car thru the shop, they all got new 148. The old coulper came out regaurdless what itwas.May sound waste ful,butI know every car is equiped with a 148 now, and coulper problems have all but disapeared
Any new piece of rolling stock I assemble or purchase RTR gets Kadee #58s and Proto 2000 metal wheels. The only one’s I don’t have to replace are Tangent and ExactRail. Most of my locomotives - steam or diesel - are also outfitted with #58s. Haven’t been disappointed.
Tom
Yes, which is why people preach Kadee couplers over and over and over and over and …
Looks like I have my project for tonight. I have half a dozen cars on the “RIP” track waiting for 148’s
Love you guys that replace everything, got 100 pair of Kadee #5’s for 10 cents a pair as someone replaced them all for another Kadee coupler!
Lucky you!
My philosophy used to be “replace on failure.” Now, I realized that failure is inevitable so I use “replace on purchase” instead. When I assemble a kit, it gets Kadees and Intermountain wheelsets.
Ive been giving #5s and 148s away to people in my club as they are needed (not handing out wholesale). Ive got a 5lb bag of #5s Im probably never going to use again.
When you change out couplers, never glue coupler boxes shut. You will invariably have to change one for one reason or another. Always use a screw if possible. Ive got about 30 cars left to change out from Kadees, and they all either came from the factory with glued coupler boxes (Intermountain) or I glued them shut on initial assembly when I first started in HO 5 years ago. I thought, gee Kadees are the best coupler available, why would I ever switch to something else. I found something better.
Here’s the thing…Walthers Promax coupler is identical to a KD #5 coupler,all metal,brass centering spring and knuckle spring…The ones that are preaching KD only are looking with tunnel vision without seeing another worthy coupler that is on the market. I use both 148 and the Protomax since Walthers newer cars come equipped with these couplers.
I can’t tell the difference between my KD 5s and 148s from the ProtoMax.
Aren’t the Protomax couplers larger than Kadee #5’s?
If so,the couplers must have been measure with calipers because I can’t see the difference between the #5s and the Protos…
Larry, I’m fine with Walthers Protomax couplers and for the most part, it is difficult to tell the difference between them and regular KD’s. Any rolling stock that I have that came with them I don’t see any need to replace unless I find a bad one.
That said, I’m not going to search out and buy Walthers Protomax couplers to replace plastic clones, like the OP wasn’t happy with. Most of the dealers I buy from stock plenty of KD’s and I usually buy bulk packs of them. While Protomax seem to be as good as KD, I don’t find the need to search them out when KD’s are right there in front of me and are usually easier to get, not to mention having a long standing reputation. Add to that I’m starting to prefer the #58 semi-scale KD’s more and more so if I go buy couplers, KD makes a type Walthers doesn’t.
Maybe, it’s hard to tell. They look pretty darn close to standard KD #5 coupler head. If they are bigger, it’s not by much and nothing that would deter me. If it matters to have closer to scale couplers, I just buy KD #58 semi-scale couplers where there is a clear visible difference.
Jim,Since the 148s became my standard coupler I buy them by the bulk pack. I mention the Protomax as a option and come equipped on Walthers cars.
I have always used wide vision in the hobby and look over new products or modeling ideas-not that I will hop on the newest hobby product or trend because I’ve maintain my modeling style for the last 60s years…
In fact wasn’t for MRC’s Tech 6 I would not have DCC/Sound on my 1’ x 12’ ISL.IMHO the Tech 6 is the best thing since peanut butter and jelly for those of us with lots of DC engines and a small layout but,wanted to add sound and sound is much better with DCC.
The main reason I like the whisker couplers is that some kits I have built seem to have a tighter coupler pocket and the #5 type with the bronze centering spring tend to bind and not center well, where-as the whisker type work better in those pockets.
On those models which the pockets don’t bind, but are looser, and in fact the couplers come out a bit low on the height gauge, I have to shim them a bit to help correct the height. I don’t mind using the bronze spring in those cases because it acts as a shim if placed under the coupler. I am aware that the bronze spring is “assymetrical” for the porposes of delayed action, but I don’t use that feature and couplers seem to center about the same as if the bronze spring was mounted above the coupler.
I have nothing against buying the Protomax couplers but I haven’t had any reason to search them out to outfit kits or replace plastic clones. With KD brand, I have quite a few options available to me, whisker or bronze spring, standard or semi-scale head, offset head, short, medium or long shank etc etc. If anyone wishes to use the Walthers Protomax, they should work just about as well as KD.
I think you got to the issue I was trying to bring up I usually end up switching my Tropicana reefers in and out of the transfer facility and have noticed that the ez mate couplers were not lining up correctly. I would loosen the coupler box a bit which helps but its not perfect and I can keep sending in a “helper” (bamboo skewers) to correct.
Joe,As far as the E-Z Mates file those under file 13 and get KDs-May I suggest 148s or maybe the 158 scale coupler?
I still use magnets for uncoupling because I like the delayed action and hands free uncoupling. The very two things that sold me on KDs way back in '66. [(-D]
Actually I keep the old couplers and use them for scrap loads or on a few of my shelf queens that had horn hooks now have glued in plastic coupler. Mostly trainset stuff upgraded for display cause they were given to me by well meaning but misguided relatives or friends.