I’m trying to use Bachmann ez mate couplers on a older Athearn “blue-box” GP35. I notice that they hang low and don’t match up well with other engines and cars. Any suggestions?
Are you using centre shank, undershank or over shank? Low coupler height may be correctible using undershank couplers.
https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4460
EZ Mate II are the ones you want. Just as Kadee does Bachmann makes different couplers for different applications. Long, medium and short shank also although those don’t affect coupler height.
Throw away the Bachmann couplers and get Kadees. The 30 series has a nylon shank and will be insulated. They make overset and underset versions.
Alternatively, do what I do and cut off the mounting pad on the frame and glue a styrene platform to the shell and mount the couplers on that.
The Kadee shanks are too thick to easily fit into a coupler pocket sized for Bachmann couplers. I think Athearn coupler pockets are also shallow. Filing down a Kadee to fit is a pain.
Mind you if the problem is a drooping coupler rather than a coupler that sits too low but is otherwise fine then slipping in a Kadee with its thicker shank may be the solution.
Athearn still use that goofy clip on coupler pocket cover, BB were metal, later versions are plastic. All versions are annoying to use. You can buy new clips, even!
The best way to mount a KD coupler on a BB engine is by using the KD coupler box attached by a 2-56 screw…
The old metal coupler box on the older BB engines can be ground down by using a Dremel tool lacking said Dremel tool a a hand operated,air cooled large flat file will also work…
Actually Athearn’s RTR cars uses screws to hold the copler box on. I’m not sure about the older BB cars sold under their Roundhouse line of RTR cars .
Athearn’s early RTR cars was built BB cars that used the coupler clip.
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Yeah, go to the Kadee site and see what they suggest for that locomotive.
In the past, I used Kadee #5s, but for the two BlueBox geeps that I still have, I cut off the frame extensions for the couplers, then built pedestals, using sheet styrene, on the underside of the end walkways. I then used contact cement to body-mount Kadee #5s. on one end of each loco, and Kadee #8s on the other end (the two Geeps run as a pair, with the short #8s allowing close coupling between the two, while the #5s have a longer reach for whatever is being pulled…
Here’s a #5, with a slightly-shortened draught gear box…
…and the #8 on the other end, with it’s uncoupling “glad-hand” cut off…
…and here’s the pair at Mount Forest, on the partial upper level of my layout…
Both locomotives have been re-motored with Mashima can motors and are weighted to about 18oz. each, so are great pullers.
However, they don’t get much running time since I backdated my layout to the late '30s.
Wayne
I just bought a rtr Athearn MOW derrick car from 2010 with metal clip on coupler boxes.
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I agree with the advice to use a Kadee 20 series coupler in the Kadee #242 coupler box. It is pretty easy to drill and tap the Athearn frame for a 2-56 screw, and your operation will be flawless once the Kadee coupler is installed properly.
You can see in the pictures, my coupler was a little high at first. I fixed it with washers between the coupler box and the frame to lower the biox, but I could have also used an offset shank coupler.
-Kevin
Here is how I converted a smiliar blue box GP-38:
https://dandhcoloniemain.blogspot.com/2020/02/boston-maine-athearn-gp-38-2-206.html
Hello All,
[#welcome]
I agree with switching to Kadees.
Is the original coupler (draft gear-) box molded into the frame with a centering pin molded in with a metal cover that snaps on?
With this configuration, the centering pin has a smaller diameter than the hole in the coupler.
This discrepancy will cause the coupler(s) to droop.
You have a couple of options:
- Kadee makes sleeves that fit over the undersized pins and in the hole of the coupler #213.
- Athearn also still makes the snap-on draft gearbox covers in both metal and plastic.
- A-Line makes a tap and drill jig that allows you to drill out the pin and tap it for a 2/56 screw to attach a new draft gearbox.
For my Athearn B.B. conversions, I used Kadee couplers with the sleeves.
I have a stash of both types of Athearn gearbox covers- -especially the metal ones as they are prone to bending.
Hope this helps.
I end up with lots of the blue box metal coupler covers since I replace the coupler boxes with Kadee boxes.
They sell quickly at train shows.
-Kevin