howdy,
i have a couple proto 2000 diesel locos and both throw off the track whatever car they have coupled to them. this occurs on “s” curves. it appears that the loco coupler isn’t traveling far enough to the side. would a longer shank coupler solve this? how about a whisker coupler with the sides of the draft box cut out slightly?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
Either could work but I’d try the longer shank coupler first.
If you are not using KD’s, I would switch to them. Be sure to follow KD’s instructions on preparing the couplers - burnishing, smoothing, graphite.
Good luck
Paul
It sounds like the couplers on your locomotive are body mounted? Are you car’s couplers body mounted or truck mounted? If they are truck mounted, use a body mounted coupler next to the locomotive. You might also use a shorter freight car next to the locomotive rather than a longer one.
ROAR
I agree with all of the above replies.
Tell us more about the couplers you are using on the locomotives and the rolling stock, body mounted or truck mounted, type and brand of couplers, and the brand of rolling stock.
Tell us more about the track. What type and brand of track? Any turnouts involved? What type, brand and number?
The more information we have, the better we can pin down the problem.
Rich
What length cars??? If you are using up to 40’, no problem from cars and ussually 50’ are fine but any more and you could have issues. The longer the diesel, the more of a problem too. S curves can be ignored for the most part with short stuff but more modern stuff, watch out!!!
both loco and cars are body mount with #5 kadee. cars are walthers trainman series. one is a caboose, and the others that i have tried so far are a 40’ stock car and a 40’ 3 bay hopper.
locos are a gp60 and an sd9. i looked again after first post and it is definite that the couplers are reaching the end af allowable travel in the box when the cars derail.
i really appreciate all the input and help and i think i’ll try the long shank coupler first since that wan’t involve any modifications to locos or rolling stock.
can anyone give me the kadee coupler number to use? i would want everything the same as a number five except long shank.
Good railroad engineering practice says that “S” curves should be seperated by a section of striaght track equal to the length of the longest piece of equipment in use.
I suspect your “S” curve is your real problem - elliminate it and you trains will stay on the track just fine.
Sheldon
The Kadee #5 is a metal medium centerset shank.
The metal long centerset shank is a #146 which, by the way, is a whisker coupler.
If you want a standard (non-whisker) long centerset shank, Kadee makes only a plastic coupler, the #26.
Just get the #146, it will be just fine for this purpose.
Incidentally, you need not replace all the couplers, just alternate them. Put a long centerset shank coupler on the rear of the loco, connect it to a #5 on the front of the first freight car, put a long coupler on the rear of that freight car, leave the #5 on the front of the next freight car, and so on.
Rich
CritterRanch;
Do you have a photo or a dimensional reference for the particular ‘S’ curve giving you trouble?
I’m asking because I am planning a layout (have been for years), & would like to know if it is a combination of switches, crossovers, or other track that is giving you trouble.
I’m not going to trear into it, or you, but if there is a tricky combination out there, maybe we could all learn from it…
I have learned in my planning that I really need to broaden my switches & curves, sort of like my driving practice, make it real smooth & fluid…
It’s a challenge with (or against), available space, but I am glad I have not built a layout off my first set of plans… …Really!!!
So, let us know more details about this track set up, I wouldn’t think a GP would do such a thing with the cars you mentioned.
Thanks,
Lots of good info so far - hope I can add…
Depending on the severity of the “S” curve, and lack of tangent track between the two ends of the curve, your problem is more likely that - as opposed to the locos couplers.
I would straighten out that S curve first, and that may well solve your problem.
The other - less desirable fix - is a longer shank coupler installed on the locos.
Chances are, the S-curve is the problem.
The most elegant solution is to eliminate it.
But you may not want to, or you may not be able to.
While the use of long centerset shank couplers will probably eliminate the derailments, recognize that you are only masking the problem with a workaround.
Just out of curiosity, what track work is producing the S-curve? Is it a pair of turnouts aligned to produce a crossover? Perhaps a third turnout coming off of a crossover, leading to a yard or siding?
Rich
The whisker coupler has a bit more lateral movement to begin with and cutting the box slightly makes it even better.
If that does not do it, use the long shank whisker.
But now I am wondering, if you are having trouble with a GP type loco, what happens when you use a SD type?
i took a pic, but i have no idea how to upload to this forum. if someone will tell me what to do, i will be glad to post.
also, i have already ordered some 146 couplers.
thanks again for all your help.
david in dixie
I’ve found that the centering tabs on EZ-mate or similar couplers jam against the sides of the coupler box and limit travel. Just replacing EZ-mates with Kadee couplers can extend the coupler’s travel.
S&S
Good point, S&S, but the OP has indicated that he is already using Kadee #5 couplers.
Rich
Critter - the S curve will always be a problem. that said first fix may be the 146’s. I know you don’t want to modify the cars but if you clipped away the stock coupler boxes you could use Kadee Boxes (recommend the 262) and mount them so the boxes “stick out” about 2mm. Not unsightly but adds a little extra flex. I have found the wisker couplers - I use 148s - really perform well in the kadee boxes. Once you have some rolling stock with kadee boxes you will see the limitations of “drop in” plastic frames - the difference is not much but it is there. Also be sure your coupler heights are correct - different height kadees will uncoupler easier.
David, if you want to email me the pictures, I will post them for you.
Rich
again, this is new to me–give me an emale address and i will send.