Couplers

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hey guys? I have a bit of a delemma.

I like Model Railroading, and since I started, I have been useing Horn-hook couplers.

So here’s the delemma.

I have a bunch of cars with broken/missing couplers.
I am interested in getting more, bet I keep hearing all this talk about “Kadee” knuckle Couplers and how they are better than horn hooks. Now I’m even hearning that cars and locos made by manufactures are making the switch to knuckle couplers.

Should I invest some money and make the switch to knuckle couplers? or start hording Horn hooks? I would rather do the Latter, as it sounds the cheapest. [8D]

2

Switch to knuckle couplers.

Dave H.

3

If you haven’t tried the KD couplers, I would buy a set and install them on a few cars. This will give you an idea what’s involved in the switch over and then you can decide for yourself if you think it’s worth the switch.
I use both types. KDs on all my custom detailed and painted models and hornhooks on the classics.

4

Hornhooks have been used because they are cheap and reliable, they just don’t look as good as KD’s. But hey it’s your railroad and if you need to keep the cost down do it. You could also consider some of the other knuckle couplers that are cheaper than KD’s. They reportedly aren’t quite as good at coupling on curves, but work reasonably well. Personally I use the KD’s and like them. (have used them in HO, O, and now S).
Enjoy
Paul

5

The HO KD knuckle has been around for 30 plus years and is considered the defacto standard of the hobby.

Over these years KD has developed a comprehensive system of couplers, mounting methods and hardware to fit virtually every model locomotive or car ever built. Not all locos and cars accept the same coupler.

KD presently produces 40 different coupler and hardware sets in both metal and acetal plastic, conversion kits, shims, washers, coupler height gauge, trip pin pilars, wheelsets, uncouplers and freight cars.

The KD # 5 is the most popular but there is also the new # 58, overall smaller in size and closer to scale dimensions as the common prototype E coupler except for its overall length over the knuckle.The #58 works well with other KD couplers.

Here’s a few sites.

For conversions, www.kadee.com/conv/list.htm

For applications, http;//www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html

To see a specific KD product, couplers go to www.kadee.com and scroll down to product # 1-79 and click.

Then click on the specific product #, such as the #58 and it’s picture and specifications will appear.

Should you go KD there are two KD tools that you will need

Trip pin pilars, product # 237, $11.00

Coupler height gauge # 205, $4.00

Also a lubricant,"Greas-em, product # 231, $2.00

You can also see these products by going back to www. kadee.com and scrolling down the product range #s and click.

6

Whoa… Thanks for all the info! Kadee’s site if sure chock full of Info!

If I ever do make the switch (Probably not far down the line) I’ll do the Locos first. Makes sence. [;)]

Thanks for the help!

7

For switching KD’s or compatable are much better than horn-hooks

Foe running trains you can convert a few cars and locos at a time and use concersion cars (KD on one end, horn-hook on the other) between incompatable strings of cars.

I would go with KD on the cars with broken couplers.

8

Most cars/locomotives now have the pockets designed to except knuckles, don’t they?That is my impression.
Plus knuckles are more prototypically correct, they are todays standard, and from what I know, cost the same, if not less, than horn hooks.

9

switch to knuckle couplers. those are the best. they also look life like if you are going for the real look. my first locomotive had hook horn couplers and i changed them as soon as i could. also the knuckle couplers are stronger and won’t let go as easily, or so i’ve heard. invest the money into knuckle couplers. they aren’t that hard to install either.