If I am running parallel tracks and want to connect them (both directions), what is the best crossover angle to use and which turnouts work best for that angle?
It will depend on how much room you have to put in the double crossovers, and the size of the equipment that you run. Long steam, and 85’ passenger cars, and you are going to need #8s. If you run only shorter equippment then #6s will probably be okay. The higher the turnout #, the more length you will need to get from one line to the other.
HD
This is a situation that handlaying track can really pay off. If you use a #8 TO like was suggested tnen you are not going to have room to install a commercially made crossing between tracks on 2" centers which is what I use in HO scale. 2" in HO scales out to 14’6" on the prototype. A hand laid crossing would allow you to keep the 2" centers. Though I have not done this yet, I anticipate having to build several of these with #6 turnouts. They’re real space savers over having to use 2 crossovers back to back. You may want to try this. All you have to lose is some time and scrap rail. Tweet
Walthers offers a #6 double crossover in code #83. The length is about 20 inch long and frog angle is 9 degrees 30 min or a #6. This will give some idea of size. A #8 turnout has a frog angle of 7 degrees 9 min. No crossovers of these angles are available. If you have the space two single crossovers are better. No crossing frogs.
Peco turnouts diverge at a 12 degree angle, and they make a 24 degree crossover specifically for the purpose of a double crossover. I haven’t personally done it, but I think 4 of their medium or large turnouts and one 24 degree crossover maintains the 2 inch track centers on parallel lines.
The Walthers Code 83 #6 double crossover is built with the rails on 2" centerline spacing. The unit is 19 15/16ths" long.
Don Z.
I have numerous crossovers on my double-track mainline, and they’re all #6’s. I run full-length passenger cars and big steam (both articulated and not) without any problems. Unless you have some very broad mimimum radii, the effective min. radius through a #6 turnout is likely higher than your trackage minimum radius. While I don’t make it a habit, I can fly them through crossovers at far-more-then-advisable speeds without any issue.
Whether crossovers (which are just two switches back-to-back) or switches the higher the crossing number you can use the better.
This is because the number represents how many units (feet) it takes the rails to diverge one unit (one foot) from the point of the common crossing (frog) going away from the tips of the blades.
So, if it takes 8’ to widen 1’ you have a number 8 switch. 4’ to go 1’ and you have a #4 switch.
The angle (and therefore the curvature beyond the switch) is less with the #8 and more with the#4.
Higher numbers/Lower angles take a greater track length to get the same distance across from the original line of track. Similarly, because the curve is greater the higher numbers (/lower angles) live in larger curves and take more space all round.
What you model will depend on the space you have and what you are running.
Shorter cars and shorter fixed wheelbases (if you are running steam) will go round sharper curves. Everything is happier going round easier curves.
Then again… if you are modelling fast passenger track it will look more correct with long shallow switches that are designed for higher speeds. If you are modelling a switching/industrial layout squeezed into an urban setting with low speeds short, sharp switches are more likely.
#6 switches (and crossover) are sort of the universal compromise. #8 and up are good for mainline/high speed if you have space. #4 are good for switching/industrial.
Then there are curved switches… and Ys…
Have you tried what happens when you change a crossover made from to RH switches for one made from 2 LH switches?
- obviously the crossover will lay the other way…
- but if you set them to lay the same way you get a crossover on a curve…
You usually want to step up one # if you use this trick if you have space…
Crossovers with curved switches need one LH and one RH switch.
Um… just re-read the Q…
If you are running double track lines…
- are you crossing over between the pair?
- are you crossing over between two parrallel pairs? (4 track).
Whatever. The “what is best”? question is answered above…
If you have double track you can either have a succession of crossovers to switch one way and then the other or you can overlap the two and have a scissors crossover. This has a diamond in the middle. In the US scissors are only usually used in cities where space is limited. The thing you will need to do is work through the principles mentioned in my last post.
Bear in mind that if you want to do a scissors you will get a weird angle if you use any of the unusual configurations I list at the end.
On four track you can have a double track scissors - which is impressive - and fun to wire up…
More easily you can have one handed double crossover followed by a double crossover of the other hand… same as for double track but more… With these you will switch one pair to the other pair in either direction.
You could also have handed crossovers in each double track and double track scissors between the pairs. This will allow you to get from everywhere in a direction o everywhere in the same direction. This will take a lot of length.
Just one other thing…
For a crossover you usually use two switches handed the same way… if you make them opposite hands you get a curved lead out of the crossover at one end if you keep the tracks parralel or you can start a seperation of the routes.
Incidentally… in the direction of travel a crossover which faces you with a choice of which way to go is a facing crossover while one whi
Just a quick perspective…
Crossovers with turnouts are in reality “S Curves” and the more gradual the transition into and throughout the better.