Hi,
One of the industries I’m building will comprise a long oil loading dock (4 Walthers kits end-to-end) and some oil storage tanks which I hope to locate along the backdrop.
I’m thinking of buying a Walthers large oil tank (933-3168) and cut it in half for placement against the backdrop.
Has anyone else done this? Is it difficult to cut straight?
Cheers,
Colin
I’ve done some Walther’s tank kits, maybe that one too. It may come unassembled such that you have to glue the two halves together? In general cutting large styrene shapes while maintaining straight lines is usually best done with a razor saw. The chopper won’t work for large bulky items, not will a large paper cutter.
Richard
I’m not familiar with the Walthers tank, but if it’s in one piece, it would be easiest to cut using a utility knife and an adjustable machinist’s or carpenter’s square. Decide where the cuts should be on the tank sides, then lay the tank on its side on a hard surface. Working on the inside face of the tank’s side, adjust the square so that you can butt the square against the tank’s bottom edge, with the straightedge part of it extended so that it reaches the underside of the tank’s top. Score repeatedly along this line, until you cut right through the plastic, then repeat this procedure for the other vertical cut. To complete the sectioning, place the tank upside down and use a straightedge (anything straight will do, as long as it fits inside the tank) and score along it with the knife until you cut through. You may need to dress the cut edges with a file or sandpaper.
Another way to section the tank would be with a handsaw or possibly a hacksaw. The handsaw would be easiest to control, but in either case, the area being cut must be fully and solidly supported. For the cuts on the tank’s sides, clamp a length of 2"x4" in a vise horizontally, with enough length protruding from the vise’s jaws to allow you to drape the tank over it. Make the cut along one side, then rotate the tank 180° to make the second cut. Be very careful when making both of these cuts that the saw’s blade is perpendicular to the side of the tank, especially where the blade cuts through the side and begins to cut into the top. To make the cut across the top of the tank, you need only connect the top of the two vertical cuts, although the tank’s top needs to be well-supported. An easier way might be to make that cut with the tank upside down on a firm surface, with the saw blade extending right through both vertical cuts. A couple of passes should do the trick. A panel saw, with its fine teeth, would
I would add to Wayne’s advice by suggesting that you use a Sharpie marker to mark your cut line clearly before starting. That will make it easy to see whether or not your saw or utility knife is going where you want it to. More important with the saw, less so with the knife.
Dave
[quote user=“doctorwayne”]
I’m not familiar with the Walthers tank, but if it’s in one piece, it would be easiest to cut using a utility knife and an adjustable machinist’s or carpenter’s square. Decide where the cuts should be on the tank sides, then lay the tank on its side on a hard surface. Working on the inside face of the tank’s side, adjust the square so that you can butt the square against the tank’s bottom edge, with the straightedge part of it extended so that it reaches the underside of the tank’s top. Score repeatedly along this line, until you cut right through the plastic, then repeat this procedure for the other vertical cut. To complete the sectioning, place the tank upside down and use a straightedge (anything straight will do, as long as it fits inside the tank) and score along it with the knife until you cut through. You may need to dress the cut edges with a file or sandpaper.
Another way to section the tank would be with a handsaw or possibly a hacksaw. The handsaw would be easiest to control, but in either case, the area being cut must be fully and solidly supported. For the cuts on the tank’s sides, clamp a length of 2"x4" in a vise horizontally, with enough length protruding from the vise’s jaws to allow you to drape the tank over it. Make the cut along one side, then rotate the tank 180° to make the second cut. Be very careful when making both of these cuts that the saw’s blade is perpendicular to the side of the tank, especially where the blade cuts through the side and begins to cut into the top. To make the cut across the top of the tank, you need only connect the top of the two vertical cuts, although the tank’s top needs to be well-supported. An easier way might be to make that cut with the tank upside down on a firm surface, with the saw blade extending right through both vertical cuts. A couple of pa
Dave, actually scribing w/ a machinists straightedge or even framing square clamped if needed will work fine. This way you will not have marker on any finished paint.
Do this regularly on prefinished or laminated panels and cabinetry, only difference is I’m working on cuts and scribes up to 8ft in length. Light passes w/ a sharp blade and you should not walk off the intended cut. Only difference is I mark or scribe on blue painter’s tape. Note this works rather well for precision cutting of plywood/ finished wood products where some splintering/ chipping may happen. Cut to knife scribe and belt sand til chips fall away,
Hi,
I confess I didn’t read all the postings so my answer may be already given…
Line out where you want to cut with a straight edge/marker, and then put duct tape on one side. This will keep the blade from straying to some extent.
If you are looking to cut the tanks exactly in half, that will take some careful measurement. We often see plans for cutting rail cars in two to shorten or expand them, and I promise you this is a major feat to do it right. I’ve done a couple of structures this way, and find they were not easy - but not all that hard.
If you cut by hand (XACTO SAW, ETC.), the upside is you have better control and no heat is generated to melt the plastic. If you use a power saw, you need to go very slow (to minimize heat), and of course carefully.
Colin
I would suggest using a band saw with a guide. Take it slow so the blade doesn’t run on you.
Jim