A supply of #11 blades for your hobby/Exacto knive, layout the window opening, follow horizontal brick joints, and scribe away.
For the vertical cuts, also follow brick joints, using a straight edge, as you’ll be cutting a vertical joint, then the next course, you’ll be cutting a brick in half, etc, etc.
When your done, for the vertical cut, you could take your knive blade and cut a return at the horizontal joints, to make it look like a half brick, if you follow what I trying to describe.
As far as the color, you’ll have to match the photo to the paint of your choice.
Use flat paint, or use a Dullcoat finish when your done.
I take the paint out of spray cans, and use with my air brush. Right from the can, it’s usually ready for an air brush, although when using primers, you might have to thin a little.
I use rust or rust-brown rattle can primer straight from the can for brick buildings. It works well.
I would get a piece of Walthers brick sheet and compare the brick size and appearance to the building you have. Then I’d cut the bottom story off and create a new one with the brick sheet. This avoids making awkward inside corner cuts.
Yes, a supply of sharp #11 blades and a metal straight edge are the simplest tools to use to cut out your windows. As previously stated, make your cuts in the grout lines of the model walls as that is where they would be located on the prototype. Use multiple light cuts instead of trying to cut through in a stroke or two. You may also find that using the backside of the blade tip will remove more material in less time. Make both top cuts and both bottom cuts at the same time to ensure both windows are straight and parallel to the ground.
As the architecture of the area I am modeling seldom looks like the commercial kits based on mid-west architecture, I have had to scratch build many of my layout structures. To better facilitate cutting window/door openings in sheet styrene, I modified an old vernier caliper (no dial or digital readout) I had by carefully grinding down the outside of the upper caliper jaw, tapering it to a fine point. Since I did not remove material from the inside of the jaw, I can still use it to measure outside distances. I first lay out my window and door openings on both the front and back of the sheet styrene using a sharp pencil. I then adjust the caliper so that the sharpened jaw sits atop a pencil line when the unmodified jaw is held against the edge of the styrene. After locking the caliper position with the lock wheel, I then carefully slide the unmodified jaw against the edge of the styrene while pressing the sharpened jaw into the desired scribe line. Eight to ten strokes is usually enough. I then flip the styrene over and repeat the eight to ten strokes on the back side. This method creates clean straight scribe lines that are repeatable and perfectly parallel to the edges of the styrene. With all of the scribe lines cut front and back, I then go back and cut through the styrene using a few more strokes of a hobby knife. Finally, I use jeweler’s files to clean up any rough edges.
A lot depends on the plastic…I have some of Walthers brick sheets, which I believe may have been from their modular parts, and cutting them with a knife of any sort is difficult, as the plastic usually shatters…perhaps it’s from a bad batch.
For most styrene plastic, a utility knife works well. For smaller windows, I prefer to drill holes near the corners of where the windows will be, then use an X-Acto #11 blade to simply carve away material to create the opening, then clean it up with suitable files.
Another option is to drill the holes, then use an X-Acto Key-Hole saw blade, which will fit in the X-Acto handle, to cut the opening. Again, finish-up using suitable files.
For colouring prety-well anything, my first choice would be an airbrush, which will allow very precise control of how much paint is applied. I use both acrylics and lacquer-based paints, and usually create the colours I want by mixing them.
Airbrushing requires a bit of a learning curve, but once mastered, you’re unlikely to ever revert back to spray cans - better control, better coverage, and less wasted paint, too, a real consideration given the current prices.
The brick in my home town was a very distinctive orange, so I usually use orange paint of some sort, modified with a little red or maybe brown or black, depending on the look I’m seeking.
Here’s a Walthers kit for their Greatland Sugar Factory…I’ve re-purposed it as the Tuckett Tobacco Co. Ltd., and used both of the long walls to create a bigger structure… on my around-the-room layout, nobody sees the plain .060" sheet styrene which forms the back walls of s
Scribe along metal straightedge using multiple shallow strokes using scribing tool or point of blade turned backwards (easier to control than cutting).
Scribe a little inside of final edge and finish with sanding stick.
Great looking buildings Wayne! I used the exact same technique to double the size of my Greatland Sugar kit main building (the small warehouse was built as designed and is placed to one side of the main building). I especially like how well your mortar lines turned out. My mortar results have always been hit or miss.
The pre-mixed drywall mud was put on using a rag over my finger tips, then allowed to dry.
Once dry, the structure was taken outside, then a clean rag was used to rub-off the excess. Use your fingernail (in the cloth) to remove the built-up areas, which tend to collect adjacent to three-dimensional stuff, such as the the window sills and pilasters. For really tight spots, the tip of an X-Acto blade works well.
I start with a base coat of cheap automotive primer in a rattle can. I like to use inexpensive craft paints for the color coats. You can spray these paints in an airbrush if you thin them to the consistency of milk. Also note that you may need several coats to get the desired coverage from the thinned paint.
