I will be cutting some sheet styrene and, as I am well aware, it is essential to use a fresh brand new blade to avoid having the blade wander away from the steel straight edge.
I have a supply of the classic pointy tipped #11 blades.
But it occured to me that the #22 blade with its curved cutting edge might be better for cutting flat sheet material:
Any experienced scratchbuilders out there with a preference between the two?
Dave Nelson
No contest, #11.
It places all of the pressure on a very narrow point and allows you to cut deeper with less pressure. The curved blade of the #22 will spread the pressure out over a (relatively) larger area requiring more pressure to cut.
Plus, you can use the “wrong” side of the #11 and do the scribe and snap thing.
-George
The back of a #11.
Dave H.
For streight cuts on thicker styrene I prefer a standard utility knife with a new blade. Very thin material is better with the #11, but the better handle of the utility knife allows for more pressure with less strain on these old hands!![:)]
I have used any or all of the X-Acto blades to scribe styrene. I ‘score’ the material and they ‘snap’ it to cut it. I like to use a metal straight-edge and a ‘new’ blade to score the material. Some material like .040" sheet stock may need several passes with your knife to get a deep enough trough to allow you to snap the sheet. I prefer to use the straight pointy blades like the #11, but the key factor is you want to use a ‘new’ sharp blade to do this work. I usually buy ‘bulk’ packs of #11 blades from places like ‘on-line’ dealers like Micro-Mark or from the ‘Tool Guy’ at local train shows. Micor-Mark also has a ‘nibler’ tool that is really nice for doing window openings or the inside of curved areas.
Jim
Either blade, using the back to scribe the cut. Not so much as actually cutting.
No.11 for sure, more control, easier to see exactly where the point is, easier to sharpen.
Actually, go to the local hardware and get a plexiglass knife. Sort of looks like a box cutter, but it has a hooked blade made to scribe styrene sheets. Works much better and no chance of spearing yourself with a broken Exacto knife.
What’s a box cutter??? (I’m a Canadian)
They have handles that accept single edge razor blades. You can’t carry them on planes or you’ll be considered a terrorist.
I like the #11, but sometimes use the #16.
I’ve always used the the #24, the larger version of the #11, in a #5 handle, for a better grip and better control of the pressure. I learned early that I can’t use the curved blades because they wander all over the place, though that may just be me. Buy lots of whatever blade you use, and change often, because even though styrene is relatively soft, as materials go, the blades dull fairly fast.
Incidentally, years ago I bought a General scale rule for one of the kids I babysat (he was 11, got a Kusan-Auburn/KMT train set for Christmas, and wanted to make some realistic buildings out of cereal boxes and such). When they moved, he’d already lost interest, so he gave the scale rule back to me. Alan Armitage, the Plastics Guru back in the late '50s-early '60s, recommended gluing fine sandpaper on the back of a steel rule for scribing and groove-and-snap. I sacrificed one of the General scale rules (the one without the important reference data on the back!) by “Gooing” plastic sandpaper on the back, and have been happily using it ever since! Since you don’t actually use the sandpaper as such, it lasts a lifetime, and it sure increases your accuracy.
I agree. The utility knife is easier to handle, especially for making long cuts, and the blades seem to last a bit longer. All of my larger structures use a lot of .060" sheet styrene, which I buy as 4’x8’ sheets. I use a framing square and long, thick aluminum straight-edge for layout and cutting work. The utility knife is also better for the thick cast styrene parts in most kits - if you’re kitbashing Walthers or DPM kits or parts, the utility knife is better suited to the thicker material and less prone to breakage.
Wayne
The #11 blade as worked really well for me.
I use it to cut the skirts off of Walthers and Rivorossi streamlined cars. When using it, one cannot be in a rush.
Antonio is right for cutting curves, but for streights it’s still the good old utility knife for me, or a Dremel also works well!![:)]
Thanks, all, for the information and advice.
The cuts I am making are fairly precise – HO scale doors and windows in sheet styrene – so a box cutter etc won’t do for the fine work. But I do see the point about cutting lengths of styrene.
I am familiar with the “score and snap” technique and never fail to be amazed by how well it works.
My initial thinking was that the curved blade offered more contact surface with the styrene and thus to my way of thinking seemed less likely to veer off course. But I see the wisdom of using the sharply defined point of my #11s. And yes I do buy in bulk. Whenever styrene does not cut cleanly I know the cause – dull blade. And the blades dull faster than you’d believe.
Anyway thanks again for the insights. If it turns out nice I may post a pic of this project.
Dave Nelson
OK, a utility knife, woudn’t they be a little cumbersome on fine details???
It depends on what you consider “fine details”: a utlity knife works okay for most door and window openings in HO, although the smaller they get, the harder it becomes to see around the handle. [;)] I generally use one only to cut from the 4’x8’ sheets, as I have to work on the floor of the layout room to have the space to lay out the sheet. Once I have the smaller pieces cut out, I usually switch to an X-Acto with a #11 blade, since then I can work on the workbench. An exception, where the utility knife seems better, is when cutting strips of .060" to be used as bracing - as long as the cuts are straight, accuracy in width or length is relatively unimportant.
Wayne
I use a single edge razor blade for styrene .040 and thinner. It produces a cleaner cut. And the dulled edge can be renewed by snapping it off.
Harold
Huh? Never seen that on any single razor blade. I know there are utility knife blades that that is possible on. Thayt being said, I use the #11, but don’t try and cut all the way through the first time, but rayther make several passes.