What’s the best method to cut masonite fascia? For my layout I need certain sections to be perfectly straight and some contoured to form mountain outlines. Some sections will have both.
I would think a jigsaw is the tool choice for the mountain areas. Straight sections could be cut on a table saw.
All depends on what tools you have available.
Hmm, I don’t have access to a table saw.
Can it be repeatedly scored and then snapped? I dunno, just asking. If you can, and it leaves a rough edge, which is highly likely, just use a surform file or a sander.
Otherwise, I would tape the back side of the cutting line, and then use a jigsaw at highspeed setting. It will require patience and technique, but it will also be soon enough done.
I use a band saw. If you do not have access to power tools, it is difficult. A hand held hole saw will take all day, but will work. A hand held power jig saw will do a fair job for $50. Too cheap a jig saw will not cut straight. A new blade is importanrt.
Mine is similar. I used a table saw for the perfectly straight cuts. For ths contours I usd a black sharpie to mark the backside of the facia board (I traced along the landscape to make the cut lines) and then used a sabre saw with a fine cutting blade on it to cut around the contours. If you don’t have a table saw, then I’ve used a cutting guide and a circular saw to cut similar materials many times. You can get an aluminum one that is over 8’ long fairly cheap. It clamps to the panel you are cutting.
I’ve used a router with a carbide straight cutting bit, jigsaw and table saw.
Just remember that masonite is pretty hard and will dull steel blades very quickly. Carbide lasts much longer. You will know when a blads is dull by the effort needed to cut and the fuzzy edge that begins to appear.
Good luck,
Karl
I cut my masonite,face up,on a radial arm saw.If you don’t have access to power tools,is it possible to get your home center or lumber yard to make the straight cuts for you?You will have to buy or borrow a jig saw for the profile boards.
I considered that, but the last time I got Home Despot to cut plywood for me, I told them to cut a 4x8’ into four 2x4’ sections; the latitudinal cut was not perfectly centered (not a horrible issue as I placed my foam boards perpendicular to the plywood and any imperfection was covered). But it did give me doubt that they can make an accurate cut.
I have cut hardboard (Masonite) and plywood with a circular saw and an aluminum straight edge cutting guide. I have been told by woodworking friends that this is the safer and easier way to cut 4’ x 8’ sheets of hardboard or plywood rather than using a tablesaw to make the initial cuts. I’m sure if you have someone to help you handle a 4’ x 8’ sheet that you can get more accurate cuts on a table saw. The cutting guide I have is one of the cheaper ones that has a joint in the middle. Be advised that you need to hold the middle of the guide in place at the joint to get an absolutely straight cut. This can be done by pushing the end of a piece of 1 x lumber against the area of the joint in the guide and clamping the other end of the 1 x to the edge of the sheet goods you’re cutting. Before cutting, check the width that you plan to cut over the full length of the cutting guide and make adjustments to the middle support as needed.
Be sure to put the “good” side of the sheet goods down when using a circular saw for making the cut. On a tablesaw, the good side should go up. This avoids having any tear out at the cut edge show on the good side that you’ll see.
Bob
A rotozip saw works really good for cutting the contours. For the straights do like the man said and use a straight edge guide of some sort. A fine tooth hand saw will work for the straight too ,but be sure to have the masonite properly backed and held down tightly. If you need to use hand tools to cut the contours a fine tooth keyhole saw will work well too. Once again be sure to back up the thin material. A little sand paper will smooth up the edges just nicely.
I use a drywall square and a saber saw. (A drywall square is an enormous metal t-square. You can get one at Menards, HD, etc. Under $20 when I got mine.)
The nice thing about a drywall square is that you can run a saber or a handheld circular, a boxcutter or even a handsaw down the thing. As long as it’s clamped onto the work and you keep your blade perpendicular, you’ll get a precision cut.
Another point I’ve found is when making your cuts, place masking tape or painter’s tape over the area to be cut and this will reduce chipping and splintering of the finished surface.
The most flexible means of cutting the masonite will be to use a good jigsaw (Bosch) , with a sharp and short blade. As suggested, use straight edges for the straight cuts. For contour cuts, mark, cut, then using a wood rasp, surform, Microplane, sandpaper, whatever is your fancy, to finish shaping the contours. A RotoZip would be the #2 choice, but it takes a certain skill to freehand those puppies.
This is some good info for the cuts.
When cutting for scenery contours, I mark as described previously. One thing I’ll do before just cutting on the line is to redraw the cut line about 1/4-1/2" above. Using a compass/ scribe does this in one step. This allows a small lip at the layout’s edge to bring the scenery up to.
There’s no need to follow the contours exactly, unless that is the effect you’re after. Some ragged and real wavey facia cuts may not have a great flowing look for the final result.