Going to be stratch building the body of a tranfer cabbose, and was woundering what the best way to cut the windows in the plastic? I see that micromark has this.
http://www.micromark.com/3and16-inch-corner-punch,8013.html
or is there other ways to cut them? thanks.
I’ve always just drilled a hole in the middle of where the window is to be - large enough to fit a needle file, then just enlarged the hole using flat, square and round needle files.
Mark.
I’ve always done what Mark mentions above, along with using a sharp hobby knive, and file.
The tool from Micro-Mark looks great, but remember to set up some type of a fence to place the stock against, so you get a good “square with the world” cut.
Mike.
Hi fourt,
I just use a plain old #11 X-acto blade. Doctorwayne suggests using a utility knife because of the larger grip.
A couple of suggestions:
always use fresh blades
make several passes
if you want to be really accurate, cut the windows slightly undersize and use a file to make the final adjustments
if you are doing several windows the same size, make a blank (in other words, a plug the same size as the windows you want) and use it to test fit each opening.
If you see yourself doing lots of scratch building, particularly structures, then the corner punches might be a good investment. Another option for structure windows is a nibbling shear. They would be earier to use than the punches but the punches can cut smaller holes. The shear is probably too large for your caboose project.
http://www.micromark.com/nibbling-cutter,7761.html
Dave
Wow fast response!! Dont want to spend the $ 30 odd dollers on the punch. Did think of using the file method. Just not sure where my files are at, they could be at my house, or at my parnets house where most of my rolling stock etc is at, or they could be at the storage lot that i rent. A lot of my tools and stuff got lost in boxs when i moved last time. Was in a hurry and just put what ever i grabed in boxs, not marked and all mixed up. A new set whould not cost that much. Thanks for the ideas.
http://www.micromark.com/SearchResult.aspx?deptIdFilter=0&searchPhrase=files
Hi, Fourt,
I agree with Mike and Mark, except I usually drill a big enough hole in the center of the window locations marked on the outer layer of Evergreen Scale Models Freight Car Siding, then used a #24 X-acto blade in a #5 handle (for better control), working from the backside, and carefully carved away enough to finish with square, flat, and barrette files, to complete the job. Barrette files are triangular in cross section, with the teeth on the broadest face–very good for getting into the corners to make the openings nice and square.
I built old-time cars with an inner ply of .015-.020" plain styrene and scribed siding on the outside, laminating the inner ply after the wondopw openings had been cut. Then the window sash is created the same way. ESM styrene strips can be cut to edge the completed windows. I’ve been in O scale since '93 and have only made windows and frames in brass, for a backdated Thomas Consolidation, but I have a fleet of Atlas bobber “cabeese” and one AHM I’m gonna have to tackle someday…
Of course, if you’re kit-bashing it’s a little trickier carving the penings into the thicker molded bodies of commercial cars (I’m only going to add window dividers to my bobbers). I’m not familiar with the HO market, but I’m sure there are styrene caboose windows you could insert in “steel” cars–and I know there are metal castings if you want to go that route. Fiddle with them until they fit the way you want 'em and CA-bond them in place from inside the carbody.
Be warned, however, 'cuz this is FUN! Building and kitbashing is a very satisfying pastime.
Deano
Its going to something along the lines of this. On all the pictures i have seen the hand rail is in the middle of the car. Why that is i have no idea.
Neat project!
Dave
For a small window like the one in the photo, an X-Acto #11 blade will work better than a utility knife. I’d mark-out the window location in pencil, then scribe it using the blade (this is useful because pencil lines often get obliterated by handling).
You can use a drill bit to make the initial opening, but I’d simply poke the blade into the centre of the marked area and give it a few twirls until it creates a hole. It’s then a simple matter to carve away material until you get near the scribed lines. Finish with files - triangular or knife-edged ones work best to get sharp corners.
Tichy offers a large selection of windows, but none that I recollect off-hand that match the one in the photo. Evergreen strip material can be used to create a slightly inset frame, behind which your “glass” can be installed.
Not to get too involved in the construction aspects of this, but for your car, I’d build it from .060" or .040" sheet styrene, then, after cutting the door and window openings, overlay the sides with .010"x.060" strip styrene, pre-distressed by dragging a razor saw over it lengthwise. The car’s deck can be done in the same manner using Evergreen HO scale “lumber” - 3"x6" and/or 3"x8" would be appropriate.
Tichy offers doors almost identical to the one in the photo, but using the technique described, your window openings in the .040" or .060" material should be larger than the finished size needed, in order that the “glass” not appear to be too deeply inset. This would require a slightly different framing technique.
The side Z bracing can be simulated using .010"x.020" and .030"x.030" strip, styrene, or built-up using only the thinner material - the latter won’t stand up too well to handling. Rivet detail can be done with Archer rivet decals.
Oh, and that handrail in the centre is prob
Yes - do not attempt to “eyeball”/freehand the openings. I use a dental pick as the scribing tool and use it and a small T square to mark the outer edges of windows etc. Wayne’s idea of a pencil line first is a good safety measure as I see now that my method of “getting right at it” with the dental pick runs the risk of error, whereas you can erase the pencil line if it looks wrong and start over.
Take your time and don’t get distracted.
Dave Nelson
Using the pencil line does sound the best way. And maybe a straight edge to cut the line. Was thinking of using a thin plastic glued to the back side for the window/door frame. Right now i just have the underframe from a boxcar, and getting ideas on how to do it. I have quite a few cars that i need weather, and two locomotives that i want to trick out first. Will post pictures when i do get around to doing it.
I found a article from the rock island modeler from 2007 that has a transfer caboose close to what i want to do, sadely it does not say what material he used for the deck sides etc.
I would say you should use whatever materials you are comfortable with. Personally I think styrene would be perfect. It is easy and quick to work with and doesn’t require a lot of fancy tools.
You could use brass but if you don’t have a resistance soldering station getting everything assembled would be a bit of work. Ultimately, once the car is painted, most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between brass and styrene anyhow. I built the critter in my avatar out of brass because I needed to have thin components for the shell but that is not so critical in your case. You can use brass selectively for things like roofs where the thin material will look good and be more durable, but most of the transfer caboose doesn’t need that sort of detail.
What I have done when working on these sorts of projects is just bite the bullet and dive in. If the first attempt is a disaster you will be well educated when you start the second one.
Dave
Going to use styrene, dont have the tools etc for using brass. If i have time after visiting my daughter saturday might stop by the hobby shop there and look at the selection of styrene, just to see what i might use. I dont think i will be really getting started for about a month on this project, so its more a look and see what is out there and have got a lot of ides from this post. Oh and pre pre planning on next project of making a gondola. I bounce a lot between models.
Here’s another option for cutting window openings. I drill a hole big enough to get the cutter in, then nibble away at it. It works well on thicker plastic, but I think the hole has to be about 1/4" diameter, so it won’t work for small openings.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO
Eric