Went to the local HS, and he got in two Atlas cabeese, all decorated in N&W. They had the hamburger herald so weren’t quite right for my era, but they are just beautiful… gorgeous. Typical Atlas, they are just slick as a whistle right out of the box. And the very idea of a caboose I didn’t have to paint and/or detail myself was incredible. But I didn’t buy them. I only bought one. Now all I have to do is remove that little herald…
Sounds like you have my type of will power, If I see somthing I like I WILL buy it.[:)]
To that previous, let me add “REGARDLESS of prototype!” I’m still trying to rationalize the presence of a Virginian-prototype 2-8-8-0 on a teens-era Colorado layout!
yes, and im trying to figure out an excuse for a BLI K4 on an 80’s+ era layout. It would run among 70MACs and AC6000CWs, but i like it[xx(]
And I run Pennsy triple-headers over the Sierra Nevada mountains of California–an M1-a, M1-b and a J-1. Okay, they’re ‘on loan’ for the duration of WWII. Hey, guys, TOO MUCH willpower can occasionally make for a dull hobby, right? Frankly, Virginian, I admire you’re will-power–I’d have ended up with BOTH cabeese!
Tom
Railfan excursions; they take eccentric power everywhere. The Southern ran an ex T&P 2-10-4 when I was a kid, along with an old Canadian 4-6-2.
Interestingly enough, the old Interstate Railroad in Virginia used to use a bunch of surplus Pennsy Mikes, along with some N&W 2-6-6-2s and a crop of 2-8-0s that remind me of various old PFM brass models - mostly but not entirely the MA & PA 2-8-0. The photos of its roster in “Southern Railway Locomotives and Boats” make it look like a 1960s-era model railroad put together by a man with a few inexpensive brass imports and redetailed Bowser models.
With steam, it’s all about getting the right fixtures for the era and the properly sized drivers. Once you’ve done that, the prototype furnishes you with every conceivable excuse.
OR: The railroads leased equipment from eachother as they needed it based on seasonal travel and or freight business.
I understand that… about the time I get one round of purchases ‘almost’ paid off then blam… I ‘must’ have xyz and spend $xxxx
or course… the next month same thing. ha.
I bought a Atlas NW caboose, stripped the NW right off it using alchol or was it my wife’s fingernail polish? (Acetone) washed the shell in mild detergent (Dawn) and put some WM Champs decal on it. It turned out well. Now that Atlas has released the NE-C caboose I got one also. The C.R.R. is already off the unit although I left the Radio dispatch unit logo alone.
Caboose in Model railroading is very difficult for me to get into. I dont understand it. They are either too modern or too old. I finally broke down and ordered a Bowser PRR Warbonds caboose to go with the BLI M1a. Ill keep you posted on that one.
If you got em run em. You probably can get a 70MAC, letter it Strasburg RR and use it to GENTLY run passenger service on that railroad if you want to. Call it desiel day or something he he.
It’s your railroad! Run what you like and have fun!
AH will power what a concept. Not often used by model railroders.The owner of a local lhs once said, If my customers had will power I could carry my inventory in a shoe box.The caboose what is a train without a caboose/ since modern trains don’t have them where does the crew go to catch a nap? I have used will power once or twice only finding that i have to return to lhs and buy it anyway,because my foot gets tired of kicking myself in the rear,for not doing so to begin with.Happy Holidays. TERRY
I’m about to weather two Atlas CRR cabeese for a friend whose HNXT railroad is based on the Clinchfield. I noticed that “Radio dispatch” logo and wondered if it’s accurate. It doesn’t seem to me to ‘fit’ with the CRR image. Anybody have firm information as to whether that was actually used by the CRR and, if so, when?
HighIron2003ar: Do I understand that you were able to remove lettering from Atlas cabooses with alcohol without ruining the base color?
Well… I dont know anything about accuracy of the Radio Dispatch Logo but I remembered alot of that in the eastern seaboard from the older trucking companies of the day, so I left it on.
The Red Atlas Caboose uses a sort of a material to create the large N and W letters, alcohol only evaporated before I could do anything with it… then the fingernail polish came out and it came right off… I noticed that it left a stain … so I took the body and washed it in warm water with Dawn dishsoap… it cleared the mess away. (Im glad… if it did not I would have had to prime and repaint the whole thing in caboose red)
I recall having to carefully dissasemble the caboose so I can work on just the body without breaking the roof, ladders etc etc.
However on the new NE-6 car there is a noticable spot where the C.R.R. letters were rubbed off… I am slowly pondering what I will do with it.
But with any chemical use only what you need with the dawn dishsoap and water handy and ready to go. Keep a window open so you dont breathe the fumes. When I did the exercise on that caboose, I was fully prepared to redo the entire thing paint and everything if the N and W did not come off the way it did.
Dont try to paint OVER the N and W on the
Willpower is indirectly proportional to available cash. The more cash I have the less willpower I have. Righ now I have lots of willpower, but I am expecting a good size shipment of HO scale stuff in a few days.
HighIron, I’d very much like to hear how that PRR Warbonds cabin works out. Keep us posted!
I have great willpower. It is my will to buy as much motive power as possible. [:D]
Excuses!!! We don’t need any excuses!!!
EXCURSION TRAIN!!!
Gordon
Excuses? Steam it up good and hot. Dont let that go to waste.
The Old Canadian 4-6-2 was accually a 4-6-4 I believe #2839.
This locomotive was recently restored to static display in California
She was a Royal Hudson & a sister to 2816
Gordon
PennsyHoosier,
I spent an hour putting together the Warbonds cabin (Bowser #55039) and I appreciate the quality that went into this kit. It is basically complete without a drop of glue anywhere.
Here are two things the first is that the Antenna kit and the window kit were ordered seperately and will come in sometime before next year. The second is that Bowser has included an extra of the brake wheel, corner step and made sure that the cutting diagram to remove the End Crash Bars from the tree is very specific.
The biggest issue I have is that one of the end crash bars failed to go into the holes in the bottom of the end platform (one was too thick) and I overstressed the part to destruction. I did drill out the hole a little bigger so when the replacement does come in I will be able to get it installed. Everything except the over thick pins on the end crash bars fitted nicely.
This kit was a good kit and I ordered one for parts and another for a second caboose.
I will put photos up when they are completed.