Railfan S,
Just curious, but why do you think you need $350 worth of decoders for just 13 engines? You appear to be in HO scale judging by the pics, right?
Unless you are paying someone to install them, HO DCC decoders are around $16 ea. (using Tony’s prices for Digitrax DH123D’s), which would be $208 for 13 decoders. If you need plugs, add $4 to each decoder for a total of $260.
Even if you wanted DH163D’s, the price is $26 ea. which is $338. And if you needed DH165’s with integrated plugs or as board replacements, they are actually cheaper at $23 ea., so that brings it down to $299. And you’d only need these decoders if you wanted working ditchlights or beacons, or some other advanced lighting effects.
If you wanted the cheapest deal around that I know of, Litchfield Station offers 10-packs of NCE decoders for $136.46, so each decoder is only $13.65. For 13 decoders (a 10-pack plus three singles) that would be $183.14.
I just don’t know where you get $350 for 13 decoders unless you’re paying for installs or adding sound.
And Tim at Empire Northern Models does that even one better - a pack of 10 D13SRJ decoders is $119.95 - $12/loco. Really good decoder and since it has a 9 pin plug plus wires you cna put it in pretty much anythign it will fit in - if you are willing to learn to solder. Beats double that for one that’s specially made for a specific loco. And this is not a fly by night internet dealer - he has a storefront too. Someone here (Tom?) has been there.
Now, if you need SOUND in all the locos - the $350 number is on the low side. Just a bit [:D]
Good luck putting those D 13’s in an N scale engine,this I would like to witness. To the OP, You really didn’t say how many locos would be operated at the same time or how large a layout = small ?
With a limited budget, and a small layout I would stick with DC with the following provisions:
You don’t care about sound control. (ie: ability to blow whistle, or ring bell when you want)
You don’t need to run two engines right up to one another. (ie: Helper service to get over a grade)
You intend to only run one train at a time.
With a small layout, you’ll probably have 2 block toggles attached to 2+ sidings. You don’t even need those toggles if you do something called “powering by the points.” In the later, your switches act as the block toggles automatically.
Yes, this opinion from the DCC nut. DCC’s real strength comes from greatly simplified wiring & control on larger layouts, motor tuning, and more realistic prototypical operation.
I purchased this set about 2 months ago from trainworldonline.com for $154.00. (Bachmann Digital Commander Set w/ ezcommand and 2 diesels). The set is a great way to start in DCC. I started out in DC, but love DCC after buying this set. I bought some more cars to lengthen the trains, you can do this little by little as the cash flow permits. But in the mean time you can still run trains around the track. I will upgrade to another control system later, but this is great for now untill I get the whole layout built. I won’t ever buy another DC engine.
I’ve been in DCC for three years now and I still buy DC locos. I convert them to DCC at the earliest oppurtunity. This is a lot cheaper than buying the factory equipped DCC locos in most cases. I’m not a big fan of the Bachmann DCC OnBoard locos. Any time I get any of them I strip the decoders out of them and give the locos away or trade them off. Many of the factory equipped DCC locos I see cost over $100-$150. Too rich for me. I can get an Athearn BB loco for $20-$40, tune it up and install a $20 decoder. Many of my Proto 2000 locos I got new for $65 or less and converted them as I went along.
Railfans, blocking in DCC is not the same as DC. Blocking in DCC can mean 2 things then there is sub group that I will not get into for now.
1 You need more power than the stock DCC power supply puts out, so you add a second power supply. 1 will run half the bench and other one the other half. Both are controlled by the same DCC command station.
2 You have 3 main lines like I do. I use one booster to power all 3 mains but each main has its own wiring. (from when I was DC). My one booster power all 3. Now many people will add breakers to each line. That way if the C line has a short, B and A line keep running. (breakers are the sub group)
Far as cost, a Bachmann E-Z will still run your DCC engines and so will Digitrax systems. Do one or two a week, you don’t have to do all of them.
I could make your blocked DC system DCC in around 20 minutes if not less. It took me 5 minutes to do mine. Two MRC 9500’s would cover the cost of a DCC starter set.
DC is fun, and I still run the DC lines at K-10 Model Trains a lot, less crowed on Op’s night.[:D] Don’t get ran into as much.
Sorry, that’s not correct. It comes with nickel-silver track on gray roadbed. I found it listed at Tower Hobbies for $199.98. Here’s the technical info with the track info highlighted.
FEATURES: **A large 56" x 38" oval track layout (with switch and siding)**
**of snap-fit E-Z Track® with nickel silver rails on molded**
**gray roadbed.**
The Santa Fe GP40 (#3507) and FT-A diesel locomotives are all-wheel
drive & DCC-equipped with 28/128 speed step decoders that are
factory-programmed to address button 3 on NMRA-compliant
DCC systems.
The Bachmann® E-Z Command® Digital Command Control System
incorporates the latest digital technology that's easy to use,
with one-button, on-track programming.
* Plug-and-play compatibility with all DC and DCC systems
* 2/128 speed step control
* 100% backwards-compatible with standard DC (non-digital)
With the DCC On Board technology, you can digitally control
the direction, speed, and lighting of multiple locomotives in N,
HO, and On30 Scale.
3 accurately molded freight cars with blackened metal wheels and
prototypical paint schemes:
- 40' Open Quad Hopper
- 50' Plug-Door Box Car
- 36' Extended Vision Caboose
Locomotive and all cars come equipped with Bachmann's exclusive
E-Z Mate® Mark II Magnetic knuckle couplers with metal coil springs
1 amp AC wall pack power supply and plug-in wiring for the command