We have recently converted our HO club layout to DCC only and are currently working out some bugs in our track work, wiring and rolling stock that result in hiccups when operating e.g. momentary or longer term short circuits, loss of control etc.
We have found that some diesel and steam locomotives cause a short circuit when crossing over our Peco Insulfrog switches. This in the case of Bachmann Spectrum 2-10-0’s with blind centre drivers, appears to be due to the width of the blind driver tire on the frog side bridging the two rails at the frog tip. It’s not so clear yet what’s happening with other locomotives.
The problem does not seem to happen with electrofrog switches that have been rewired and frog tracks cut so as to create a 1/4 in. long dead frog.
Since we have a considerable number of insulated frog switches that we do not want to pull up for rework, we’re looking at grinding down the frog tips and coating them with a hard lacquer so as to provide a longer dead frog.
Any comments and recommendations will be appreciated, as always.
Try and put some clear finger nail polish at the point of the frog where the 2 rail are close together. This may allow the wheels to not short the 2 rails when crossing the frog. While this is a stop gap measure it has worked for me in the past.
Be aware that if you use abrasive cleaning methods or certain cleaning compounds that it will remove the fingernail polish and you will have to paint it back on!
Joe Fugate has commented about the nail poli***rick, and favours it. Of course, it wears over time, and as mentioned will disappear in a hurry if you actively scrub it or use any type of solvent to clean the rail surface.
Just thinking about this as I sit here: I wonder if a person could/should file a 6/1000 notch or depression at the places where the rims of the loco wheels might make contact with the wrong rail. It doesn’t have to be much, and maybe barely noticeable if done well. I am thinking of something more permanent than nail polish.
This is the simplest solution and it works well. This trait is my only complaint about PECO turnouts and a minute or two with nail polish or black (or purple for that matter-the point is it insulates!) paint will solve the problem. There are a lot of other solutions offered from time to time. Most of them involve mutilation of the turnout and some of them reveal a complete lack of knowledge of electricity. Remember the old adage KISS which means, “Keep It Simple, Stupid!” or for the more polite, “Keep It Simple, Sir!” Yes you may have to do it again after a period of time because the nail polish wear off, but if you follow some of the more bizarre suggestions you may have to replace the turnout TODAY, and you’ll still have the problem until you get out the nail polish. Good luck!
Most insulfrog turnouts are OK but on those which cause this problem another easy cure is to use insulating joiners on the two frog rails - at least this works with my On30 Bachmann shay (my only engine/ turnout combo to demonstrate the problem).
This has been a constant problem with my layout as well. I notice steam has more of a problem than the diesel loco’s. Or a slow moving switcher. I use the clear F/N polish but you have to repeat it often depending on how often you clean your track. I may pick a T/O and try selector’s idea.
Terry[8D]
Is there a greater chance that a diesel loco will stop on a insulated frog with DCC? On DC the loco always appear to make it through the turnout. What can I expect when switching over to the Power Cab?