Can I use a dcc sound loco on dc? I saw some people using sound locos on DC with the prime mover sounds. I will upgrade to DCC in the future but wanted to buy a Genesis GP38-2 with sound. Will it make noise on DC? I know functions will be unavalible, but will it make noise?
To my knowledge you will get prime mover sound. You might have to turn the pack up a ways before the loco begins to move. It has been some years.
Rich
I have that model. The sound is quite acceptable when running DC only. I actually bought two. They are great little locomotives. They run well in DC mode with good sound effects.
You can’t trigger any optional sounds while running in DC mode.
Have you considered buying an MRC Tech 6 powerpack which will allow you to run a DC locomotive or a DCC locomotive on your layout, one at a time?
If you also get the special Tech 6 handheld throttle you can run up to six DCC locomotives at the same time. Only one DC only locomotive can run at a time, though, and that must not be on track that has any DCC power applied to it. All DC locomotives have to be off track or on track with no power if you select DCC mode.
DCC equipped locomotives can be safely used with the Tech 6 in either mode. The DC only locomotives cannot tolerate DCC power.
I have not looked into the Tech 6 until now. So I can just plug it in the same as my Railpower 1300?
DO NOT run a DCC / sound engine with the 1300 series power packs. It is well documented that they will, and do, destroy sound decoders. Both Walthers and Rapido have this warning right on their site and in the enclosed instruction sheets.
https://rapidotrains.com/warranty/product-support/ho-gmd-sw1200rs-product-support
Mark.
To answer the question:
Yes, you can simply substitute the MRC Tech 6 for your current power supply. It is an affordable way to enjoy DCC engines until such later time as you might choose to go full dc.
I used a Tech 6 for several years before wearing out the control knob. With the Tech 6 you can control sounds and even program some of the main configuration variable settings (cv) settings. There are some limitations–you can’t program all dcc functions–but you can program the most important functions. You also can do a reset to factory settings, either dc or dcc.
It allows you to go from dc mode to dcc mode (a lesser form of dcc than the full blown dcc systems out there). Some call it pseudo-dcc. However it works.
I have recently switched to full dcc for my son, but some of the full dcc engines had problems, and so I am only running those engines in plain dc so that the manufacturer’s defect (decoder and sound module/motherboard not playing nicely together) does not fry those engines…
I have a DPDT switch wired to allow either plain dc operation with an MRC Tech 7 power supply or full dcc operation with the NCE Powercab. Center position is all power to track off.
The MRC Tech 6 enables you to do basically the same thing, for less money, but you do not have all the full dcc functionality. It is another solution and it should not negatively affect Rapido engines or anyone else’s engines. The Tech 6 is NOT one of the power supplies that puts out poorly filtered dc current.
With the Tech 6, all engines on a live track will run, regardless of which power supply method you have it switched to. (A simple push of a button takes you from dcc to dc or back, and a light indicator tells you which mode is active at any given time–so you won’t or shouldn’t hurt any plain dc engines). So it is like running a dcc engine the traditional way: to mu them they need to be mode
MRC claims their Tech 6 does have full CV programming capability. It is definitely not transparent though.
The Tech 6 is a pretty good introduction to DCC operation. It’s basically like an entry level DCC unit but with simplified DC only operation.
Since the OP really needs to upgrade his MRC 1300 before risking his new DCC equipped locomotive the Tech 6 looks like a pretty good option. The MRC 1300 is only safe for DCC equipped locomotives if you remove the decoder and install the dummy plug. It’s the “dirty” DC power output from the otherwise excellent MRC 1300 that won’t bother the motor but may blow the decoder if you don’t completely disconnect the decoder from the track power. Removing it is best.
I am assuming retaining safe DC power is important to the OP in order to run other locomotives not yet fitted with any decoder at all.
Running a dual mode DCC equipped locomotive with DC power is not the same thing as running the same locomotive in DC mode but with no decoder. That’s the attractive aspect of the Tech 6.
Yes, and you can get other sounds on some. We have some old Proto E7s at our club with QSI decoders. By flipping the direction switch on the throttle, you could turn the bell on/off (quick flip) or blow the horn/whistle (throw and leave it). The locos would not change direction. I don’t know if other sound decoders worked like this.
For the record, I am the caretaker for these locomotives and woulnd’t wish those QSI decoders on my worst enemy. 
Aaron
Thanks for telling me that before I destroy a new genesis. I will be looking into the MRC tech 6 before any DCC loco is purchased. I’m guessing people really like these throttles because I can’t find one anywhere. Not even ebay!
MRC stopped making them, at least last time I looked at their site. Listed as “out of stock” but they still have the handheld add on. You need the base unit first. There are some out there still.
One other solution is to buy an entry level DCC system and rig up a DPDT switch to ensure your layout is delivering power from either your DC or DCC powerpack but never both. Then you need to develop the habit of never leaving that switch set to the DCC power when you shut down. Or, better yet, don’t ever leave a DC locomotive on any powered track. Always turn on the power and select the DC powerpack before any DC locomotive is on track or before the storage track it is on gets switched on, if you use power on/off switches for blocks of track.
MRC 760/780 work fine powering DCC locomotives in DC mode and deliver good clean power. I checked with Rapido about powering my Royal Hudson with one of these and they assured me the 760 or 780 would be fine. They were right, so far anyway.
If you buy a Tech 6 be aware that it has no auxilliary power output, not AC or DC, it delivers track power only.
Your MRC 1300 can still be used for 16v AC auxiliary power to run twin coil switch motors.
BLI and some Intermountain locomotives also used these QSI decoders with this feature. MRC also made a black box that could send decoder signals to DC powered track but the black box wouldn’t allow DC only locomotives to run safely so, hmmm, what was the point of that?
There were two versions of that box, one with just 2 buttons to basically dfo the direction flip-flop for you, and a fancier one with more buttons to access additional sounds. And older ESU decoders also had a box (not compatible with the QSI one, of course) that could trigger functions when running under DC. If you have mutliple BLI and PCM locos, you could potentially end up with a string of 3 control boxes wired after your power pack. Seriously - just switch to DCC at that point. The coniptions people went through to avoid DCC… by the time this stuff appeared, we were at the time of 10 packs of a decent decoder costing $119. So less than $12 to convert each loco - buying all those control boxes could have converted the rest of the locos you ran on a regular basis.
–Randy
I mean the tech 6’s Ive found were $100-$120. I think I’d rather get the NCE power cab starter set at $150 and just wire in a toggle switch to switch between DC and DCC
Most people would agree with that preference.
It depends on whether you intend to use the MRC 1300 or not to run DC only locomotives. The Tech 6 has its place but it is very much a niche product. Cost is less than upgrading your DC only powerpack plus buying an entry level DCC system.
Also, if you’re converting to DCC anyway, even over time, getting a DCC dedicated system up and running in alternate parallel with your old DC setup is the way to go. Many older DC locomotives are easy and relatively
[quote user=“Lastspikemike”]
Ringo58
rrinker
There were two versions of that box, one with just 2 buttons to basically dfo the direction flip-flop for you, and a fancier one with more buttons to access additional sounds. And older ESU decoders also had a box (not compatible with the QSI one, of course) that could trigger functions when running under DC. If you have mutliple BLI and PCM locos, you could potentially end up with a string of 3 control boxes wired after your power pack. Seriously - just switch to DCC at that point. The coniptions people went through to avoid DCC… by the time this stuff appeared, we were at the time of 10 packs of a decent decoder costing $119. So less than $12 to convert each loco - buying all those control boxes could have converted the rest of the locos you ran on a regular basis.
–Randy
I mean the tech 6’s Ive found were $100-$120. I think I’d rather get the NCE power cab starter set at $150 and just wire in a toggle switch to switch between DC and DCC
Most people would agree with that preference.
It depends on whether you intend to use the MRC 1300 or not to run DC only locomotives. The Tech 6 has its place but it is very much a niche product. Cost is less than upgrading your DC only powerpack plus buying an entry level DCC system.
I had this thought as well. DCC decoders have gotten a wee bit more expensive (I’m assuming this has something to do with the tiffs with China). For a while you could get NCEs in a 5-pack at $12 apiece, now it’s a 10-pack and a little closer to $15. Check out Yankeedabbler on EBay, I’ve had nothing but good experiences ordering from them.
If the locos are DCC ready it’s such an easy conversion – program everything to DCC only and stop worrying. In a lashup of 2-3 locomotives you can run 1 or 2 with sound and you’ll never know some are silent.
I learned to solder so I could do DCC conversions and it’s really pretty easy. The P2Ks I’ve done have been simple enough. I have several GP-30s which are DCC-ready, but I pull out the boards and hard-wire them because there’s so little room in the shell. It’s really not a big deal.
Aaron
A reasonable way to go. When the Tech 6 sells for the same as a basic DCC starter set and a suitable toggle switch is a buck or two - it makes a lot less sense. With the PowerCab you will have full DCC access, all the functions, all the programming capabilities, etc. And witht he flip of a switch, the layout is 100% DC and runs any DC loco with no problem.
Depending on which P2K locos they are - they aren’t hard to put decoders in. I have quite a few. They tend to sell for less on eBay and at train shows due to some perceived shortcomings which seem to be mostly based on falwed information, so I will happily take advantage since they have made plenty of locos that suit my era and road. Oh, you want to get rid of that P2K Geep, new in box, for $20? Perfect. I’ll add $2 of AThearn gears, and $2 of LEDs, plus a decoder, and add it to my DCC fleet while the guy at the next table sits firm at $100 for the old less accurately detalied Atlas Geep. Maybe I don’t need to deal with the axle gears on the Atlas, but otherwise it’s no easier to add a decoder to. Takes maybe 15 minutes to swap them out - so that’s what, some $75 for 15 minutes of my time? I’ll take that trade every single time.
–Randy
P2K are really quite lovely models and most are not difficult to repair and fit decoders into, especially without sound.
Tech 6 would not work as well for you as the full DCC starter system (or even more). You’ll be glad you bought the DCC system first.
You don’t want to be running your new Genesis with a MRC 1300.
Strait DC/DCC ready genesis models are fine right? I have 5 and they seem to run fine
Yes. The 1300 seems to put out some sort of odd voltage spikes that can damge some DCC decoders. For running plain DC locos, it’s fine.
–Randy