Well I bought a Bachmann K4 4-6-2 with DCC for my grand son to run on my DC HO layout. It wont run worth a <>?. It is my first DCC engine I am thinking the problem may be that I use a pulse type throttle,(Model 852B Ken’s Hobby Elect.) will substitute a MRC to see if that will improve the performance over my hand held pulse throttle. If that doesn’t work what are my options short of re-wiring the engine to DC. There is a very small electric plug that came with the engine, is it supposed to replace the decoder? There is no instructions as what it is for. FWIW Most of my engines are Athern “blue box” that I have cleaned up the gears and “hard wired” for top performance.
Jerrold,The problem may be with the engine its self since DCC duel mode decoders can can switch from DCC to DC with no problem-unless the DC has been “locked out” by sitting a CV sitting.
Remove tender. Rip out decoder. Short the Red/Orange wire (right pickup/Motor+), short the Black/Grey wire (left pickup/Motor-), short the light circuit (white/yellow wires) to one of the rails and the ground (blue wire) to the other rail.
While that’s what I would do, it seems a bit drastic - especially if that plug is actually the bypass meant to be installed after unplugging the decoder. It should be explained in the literature that came with the locomotive.
If in doubt, read the tech order…
Chuck [MSgt(ret) USAF, modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - analog DC, MZL system]
I’m going to see if the plug is supposed to be in place of the decoder. As I said there is nothing with the engine to indicate what it is for .If not then I will think about rewiring after I try to check the gears and outside running gear for binds, but the throttle does not seem to indicate the engine is locking up.
I’m no genius when it comes to electronics, but the last 3 “DCC-ready” locos had a small jumper installed in the DCC socket. Remove jumper, install decoder, program, run trains.
I would certainly check to see if that little jumper that came with the loco is the ticket before I did anything drastic!
If it’s a DCC SOUND decoder, it’s normal that in DC it takes a lot of power to get the engine moving. If it’s a regular DCC decoder, it should be relatively transparent.
Yes there should be DC “dummy plug” that you could use. Remove the decoder and plug in the dummy plug and it’s no longer a DCC engine. Save the decoder in case you decide to go DCC down the road…although Bachmann DCC-equipped engines use fairly cheapo decoders. Most DCC guys replace them with better decoders.
The adapter plugs that came with the engine replace the decoder. I would call Bachmann service on Monday and they will tell you how to install. Some come with a plug with 6 prongs and some have two jumpers with 3 prongs on each.
Will see if the plug replaces the decoder today, I assume the decoder in in the tender. Should not be a major problem to get it apart. The engine does have a schematic that shows the parts and their relationship but not wiring.