Ok, I am sure this has been asked before but I’m too lazy to search the forum so I will ask it again. I am recently getting back into modelrailroading after a 7 year absence. I just completed my first model which was an atlas trackside shanty and i must say my modelling skills are still top notch. However, I screwed up the decals royally. What I can’t seem to remember and would like to know is when you soak the decals do you soak them until you seperate or do you try to seperate them yourself.
I alway let them float off on their own, that way the tiny bit of adhesive on the film is dissolved. then use solvset to set the decals on the model.
Soak them until the separate. I tried following the directions on Microscale about soaking and letting them rest on a paper towel. Ended up having them tear.
I soak them until the separate, I apply a single brush stroke of micro set where I want the decal to go, place the decal, and while I am trying to get the stupid thing to go where I want, I keep a little water applied until I get it in place (Decals grab too soon for me). Then I get a kleenex an just touch it to the left over water drops to soak them up. I then use the damp part of the kleenex to gently blot and press the decal down. I let it dry over night or until after work the next day, then brush more micro set on it so that the decal can settle around irregular surfaces.
Let them soak off. But old decals, especially if they haven’t been stored correctly, will also crack and crumble no matter what you do.
Old deacls can be saved if you overspray them before getting them wet with Testors decal sealer. All it does is add an extra film over the existing film, but be carefull, its too easy to get it on too thick, so hiding the edge of the decal can be a real chore.
The towel needs to be wetted first. May have to keep wetting with the application/ paint brush as you work. Many times when the decal floats off the backing, it can be difficult to pluck from the water. Usually wraps around the tweezers or blade while fishing it out. Have damaged too many trying to reorient the film before setting. This is especially true with small diesel data, no. boards and safety decals. The large hearlds do work better if allowed to almost float off, less chance of silvering or clouding from excess glue remaining on the film.
Bob K.
I dip them them in the water and then set on a piece of glass (from a cheap picture frame) and add water as needed (with an eye dropper) until you can slide the decal off the paper. Then I pick up the decal and paper and bring it to the model and slide the decal off the paper, this way there is less chance of the decal folding over on itself or tearing.
I wait until it slides easily on the paper. Then slide it off into an excess of Microset and slide around into place, and this also gets rid of any excess adhesive. I use a 5/0 paintbrush for this. Keep wet with Microset until it is in place. Soak up excess Microset with small paintbrush blotting brush on paper towel. Let dry a little, but before the Microset dries under the decal around rivets etc. I apply MicroSol or Solvaset and let it wick up under the decal. From this point on do not touch the decal because it will have been liquified. Let dry thoroughly. If you have any bubbles, poke gently with the tip of a new #11 Xacto blade and put a drop of MicroSol or Solvaset right there. That oughtta do it.
Thank you for the information, very useful. One last question, when I soaked my decals, I let them soak for over an hour and they never seperated. Is there a time limit when they should be seperating or a trick I am missing to get them to seperate? All I did was trim the decal to fit and toss it in a container of water. Thanks for the help.
They should separate from the paper in about 3-5 minutes maximum 10.
How old are your decals? DId you coat them with anything after you trimmed them? If yo did, then the coating sealed the edges and you’ll have to trim them again or start over with annother set. if they do need to be coated, do it before you cut them out.
Didn’t use anything on them, but they came in an Atlas kit.