I am in a modeling situation where all my engines, passenger cars and rolling stock need white lettering. When following another post I saw a link to:
http://www.pulsar.gs/index.html
They offer a kit in which you can make any color decal out of a black laser printer image.
Has anyone used this system?
Looks like it’s for dry transfer only, not a typical decal, but looks rather interesting, now why did I leave my laser printer with my old company when I sold it [:(!]
Unless I am reading it wrong? Does metalic also…
Okay,
I haven’t done decals since I was a teenager and I’ve never done a dry transfer. What is a dry transfer and how do you put it on?
Sorry Chip, I skimmed the topic title, Dry Transfer is pretty much were you would hold the “decal” in position on the object, and then take a stylus or other thin/blunt pen like tool and just rub back and forth and it transfers from the sheet to the object. Dry Transfer sheets are more plastic like, decal are more of a paper with a thin film on them with the lettering/graphic. Woodland Scenics is dry transfer type stuff.
You did find a interesting site, which now leads me to wonder, if a person can make dry transfers? I realize you would have to reverse the lettering/graphic but, hmm, now I am wondering.
Any of that make sense?
It does make sense. Is the process of drry transfer a good one. Does it give quality results?
Looks interesting. This link has for information.
http://www.pulsar.gs/DECALS/a_Pages/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html
I don’t like dry transfer for things that are not flat, also I have a heck of a time getting things straight with a dry transfer, though for buildings I think they are great.
I prefer both, depends on the item that is getting the decal/transfer.
I have read MR articles were they will get blank decal paper and place dry transfers on them, to get a straight alignment. The Intermodal book has a chapter with that in it. Of cousre your steam/logger line probably doesn’t have the need to put that book in your library.[:D]
I say time for another poll, decal or dry transfer [B)]
Thing is, it’s more of a dry transfer isn’t it?
Thanks. I read that before I posted.
Dave,
The Engines will be flat surfaces, but the passneger and boxcars will be highly textured.
I have seen some people use dry transfers on bumper surfaces, I think and I expect others should be chiming in, but you can use a decal solution on dry transfer.
If you are doing lettering, I would do the dry transfer on a clear decal, if what you are attempting is white lettering. If a color, then I would take a stab at the custom printed on your printer. I have an Epson CX5200 with the new Dura-Inks that are water and fade resistant.
I just had an idea fellas! Can you buy white toner for a regular printer and design your decal with black, but print with white toner so it would be white? Maybe I am just crazy, but plain decal paper is pretty cheap, if you have a printer, I use a Xerox DocuColor 12, a real office printer.
Where would I get white toner–and do they make it for all HP’s (including 5 year old ones like mine)
The only thing I could thing is to buy those refill kits, get some india ink, but I would bet it would ruin a printer.
I’m not aware of anyone making white toner. Companies do make various colors of toner for traditionally black (actually monochrome would be technically correct) lasers printers, but I’ve never seen white.
Chip,
We had a long thread on this before you joined the forum a couple of years ago. The preffered printer to print white on decals is called an ALPS printer. I understand there are several models and Joe Fugate owns one and uses his frequently. Maybe he can offer more info. I have a buddy who has made me lots of decals using his. Very cool. I can send him a word file with the fonts sizes and numbers etc and he can print from that. The decals come out great.
The Dry Transfer is an old format used to paint old buildings. You could paint an square area white, then apply the dry transfer, with some rubber cement. Paint over the area black. Then use an eraser & pull off the dry transfer. THe white paint underneath should re-appear. You may need to touch up the white paint a bit, especially if the paint bleeds under the stencil.
This may have been common in the 50’s or earlier, when the names of companies were painted on the old brick buildings. No lights, no neon signs, justhe letters. The Woodland Scenic dry transfers have been around for years. You may find them in the lettering section of the office supply store. Several type styles & sizes are available. The fun part is you have to know how to spell. You have to see if you get enough O’s to spell Woolworth’s, etc. Or find your name in the alphabet soup.
This pulsar system seems to be the only way to get white lettering. I like the picture of the Mustang with the white star decaled over the aluminum body. I’d paint the star first, then go for the body, finally making the black part of the star.