Decision made on next project!

I’ve made the decision on what my next project will be![:D]


I have one of the early production Athearn Hustler switchers. These units (which seem to have become more common than the later versions with idler pulleys) have a very tall silver motor driving two axles with a pair of belts. They run at speeds of around 400 scale MPH, have poor low speed control, and their belts wear out quickly. Ernst and Accurate Lighting have made regear kits for the Hustlers, but there’s just one problem with them: they only fit later units with idler pulleys!! The only repower option that would work in these is NWSL’s PDT, but those are no longer in production because of the closing of Sagami (NWSL is developing a replacement called the Stanton drive, so they may still come out with something to fit the Hustler).

So, in my upcoming topic (which will be in a week at the absolute minimum), I’m going to show you all how to repower one of these early Hustlers using other gearing options from NWSL, so then we can all know how to make our little old Warp 9 superjets diesels run like switchers.[:D] And just so it won’t look like a $5 diesel on an expensive drive unit, I’ll also be adding some details and lighting.[:D]

So if you’re interested, be on the lookout for my coming topic.[:D]

I will be very interested in your upcoming project. Somewhere in all the plastic containers of model railroad equipment in the train room I know there is an old, beat up, battered and “mispainted” Hustler just pleading for reincarnation. I also believe the aforementioned Hustler is missing its motor so hopefully you will include a repowering option in your project.

Wanna race for pinks[:D]!! I have a brass american that will blow your trucks off!!.

On a serious note, I just came from the very LHS, which caters to slotcars, then RC, then paint, then HO, in that order. They have an absolutely great selection of gearing in brass, steel, and delrin that could be used for gear reductions if you know what your after. I also picked up a Mabuchi (??) flat can to try on one of my projects for only $10. The only thing to scratch is the gearbox, which is easier than gears.

ROFLMPO (P=patoot)

I have a PDT for you. Check your inbox.

I will be including a new motor in the project. The drive I’m putting together will allow pretty much any single shaft motor up to 30mm long to work, so it’ll be a pretty flexible design.[:D]

Before or after I repower it?[^] My currently rubber band driven Hustler will leave your American in the dust![:-,]

Sounds like your LHS carries some pretty good stuff. Being creative with new gears can be fun.[:D]

I just sent a reply. It should be in your e-mail inbox.

I have one of these, except it’s the Lionel version with actual gearing. [:)]

I look forward to seeing what you can do…I have little doubt that it’ll be impressive, Darth!

Well maybe I’ll finally find a use for the couple I have, funny thing is I have the older one like you have and the newer one and like the newer version better but couldn’t sell either one So now I know why.

While this topic’s up, I might as well ask. Will something other than brake fluid (like alcohol) strip the paint off the shell? I’m also going to repaint it and want to get the old off first, but I want to know what else will work before I go out and buy a whole can of brake fluid for one little switcher.

I use Chameleon paint stripper…I ran a little low the other day and just added 91% alcohol…works fine for me.

If you need more speed, just remove one rubber band. The motor will spin a bit, then it will really take off. Just watch any curves; it wants to go straight. I discovered this with my first Hustler back in the 60s. It must have to do with less drag / resistance from the “drive unit”. [:o)][:-^]

Thanks! I went ahead and tried just the alcohol (I have 70%), and it’s doing great so far.[:D]