I have a DC powered RS3 diesel that I want to convert to DCC. What would be a good decoder to use that would have prototype sounds? Thanks in advance.
I have a Proto 1000 RSC3 Diesel in Milwaukee colors. An RSC3 has six-axle trucks, designed for running on lighter-duty lines. I think I have an old Soundtraxx decoder in it. I get the classic Alco sound out of it. I can almost smell it burning oil.
What make of HO locomotive do you have? My decoder required hard wiring and installing a speaker, but it was an easy job. There was plenty of room inside.
This is an old Tenshodo RS3 I got off of eBay, so it does not have any provisions for DCC. It would be a custom install.
-C
I have an ESU Select in a newer Atlas RS-3. The low speed and sound is just terrific. Just make sure to isolate the motor brushes from the frame before installing any decoder in your Tenshodo.
For speakers I would hightly recommend Scale Sound Systems. JT is a sound engineer by trade and designs & 3D prints his own baffles for his speakers.
Tom
I just converted an old Atlas yellow box RS3 (with Kato drive) to DCC. I used a Tsunami TSU-PNP8 (Alco) and TDS Supersonic Small 18x13mm speaker+enclosure from Tony’s. It was an effort but it works very well. Tsunamis are my favored decoders. It took some plastic hacking to get the speaker in but the suger cube speaker is really amazing.
The TSU-PNP8 may not fit the Tenshodo so you may have to go with the pigtail version of the TSU2 but it would still be my choice.
Charlie - Northern Colorado
Is this a brass locomotive? Could you post pictures of the drive system?
Pete.
It is a brass locomotive. I’ll try go get a picture with the shell off to show what I am dealing with. As for prototypical sound, (I’m not a prototype expert) it sounds like I would want a decoder with ALCO sound.
Possible decoders would include:
Soundtrax TSU-AT1000 with the Alco 244 sound files.
Tsunami TSU-PNP8
The TSU-1000AT may be a discontinued model and it was a 1 amp version. With your older, and probably higher current, motor you will probably need the 2 amp capability of the TSU-2200. Be sure to measure your motor stall current before you buy. The TSU-2200 is available in an Alco version.
Charlie - Northern Colorado
Hopefully these image links work to give an idea. Actually it’s an Alco brass model, not a Tenshodo.
There is very little space between top of motor and the shell.
A few comments:
It looks like there might be space for a TSU-2200 on the sides next to the drive shafts but keeping wires confined will be a challenge.
Isolating the motor connections will be easy but I’m not sure about the track pickups. Not clear if they are both isolated from the frame.
That motor looks like a current hog. Be sure to measure the stall current.
Charlie - Northern Colorado
I would even consider swapping it out for a flat can motor with dual motor shafts. That has two advantanges:
- Lower current draw from the motor
- More overhead room for mounting the speaker/baffle and decoder
Remove the old motor and create a platform out of styrene sheeting for the new can motor so that the motor shafts are concentric to the gear train axles. I would also look for a motor that has long motor shafts to reduce the gap between the two.
And while the silicone tubing does work, you might also want to think about a NWSL universal joint kit that matches the diameter of the motor shaft you have/will be getting. You can also add that later, if you’d like.
Lastly, are you considering adding lighting to the front & rear headlamps?
And how are the gears on your RS-3? Alco Models diesels are usually notoriously loud.
Tom
Thanks for all of the advice. I’m going to look for a flat can motor with dual shaft. This one from Micromark looks pretty decent:
https://www.micromark.com/Flat-Can-Motor-Style-2025-12v
The gears are indeed pretty loud. I’m not sure what I can do about that. It was screeching when I first got it and I lubricated it. Now it runs more quietly but still louder than modern models.
I was thinking of adding the front and rear headlamps. I was thinking of using mounted LEDs for those. I’ll have to look at some RS3 pictures to see where they go exacly. Not obvious from looking at the shell. Looks like I’d have to drill some holes where they are supposed to go.
The alco sound you want is of the 244 power plant. I would say use scale sound speakers. You can get them I. Small sizes plus they currently are the best sound reproduction. Sugar cubes are a close second like those from Tony’s train exchange. Tsu, soundtraxx, and Esu loksound are all good decoders. Spac could be your determination of exactly which one you get based on overall physical size
shane
I used one of the Micro-Mark can motors to repower an old LL Proto 2-8-8-2 (naturally I got one from the one batch that had motors with a defect) and it worked out well. I think it would be a good choice for your engine.
Chris,
For all my brass locomotive headlamp installs, I’ve gone with surface mount (SMD) LEDs - specificially 0603s, which are 0.06 x 0.03". For wiring I chose insulated 34 AWG magnet wire because of its small size. It allows me to pass 2 wires - side by side - through a single #80 hole.
Here are 0603s installed in the front & rear headlamps of an Alco Models 0-10-0 brass switcher. You could even use 0402s if you wanted to go smaller: (Click photo to enlarge)
To secure the LEDs in place I use Testors Clear Parts Cement. It dries clear, holds well, stays relativlely flexible, and insulates the rear of the LED from shorting to the brass headlamp. And, should I ever need to replace the LED, I can peel the cement out of the headlamp with a pair of tweezers without marring the interior of the headlamp.
The only other thing I do is paint 1 or 2 layers of thinned Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange on the LED to give it a slight yellowish hue to replicate an incandescent bulb. Oh, and I use a much higher value resistor (10K) to soften the intensity of the beam.
Tom
If you go this route, you’ll find that the old motor filled up most of the fuel tank. What I have done when I’ve replaced this motor is to fill the fuel tank with layers of sheet lead to where the motor shafts line up with the worm gears in the truck towers. By using lead instead of building a styrene mount what you’re doing is adding weight to the locomotive. [tup]
Dan
Thanks, Dan. I presumed that the motor was flush with the chassis floor.
Agree on the lead sheeting. Good info for the OP to know.
Tom
Great recommendation RE: lead sheeting. I’ll look into that.
Chris
Are the couplers mounted in a plastic box? If not then they will be hot to the chassis.
My last sound instal was an Atlas/ Kato RSD4/5. I used a Loksound V5 on the Atlas style board. Not wanting to cut weight out, I used a cab roof mount speaker from Streamline Backshop. Works and sounds great.
Pete.