I have a single head mast wired up and working.
That looks good Barry!
Dave
I have a double head mast wired and working as well. I don’t have pictures yet. I can slide 8 #36 magnet wire through the mast with no problem. I’m running the positive common lead for both heads through the mast. I will post pictures after I get the ladders on and painting done.
Soldering #36 wire on surface mount leds is an exercise in patience. It’s like working with very fine hair.
Barry
Hi Barry,
I have had the most trouble with trying to remove the varnish insulation from the magnet wires. My XYtronic pencil iron set at 700 degrees F doesn’t seem to do a very good job, so I have resorted to using my Weller gun on high. It does the trick quite nicely.
Dave
When I was working in the winding shop at work we would use a candle to burn the varnish off, then fine sandpaper to clean off the soot.
Now I just solder right through the varnish. It works well enough.
Barry
I tried doing that with a lighter but the wire itself burned. Maybe I held the heat on too long.
Dave
Dave - How come none of your photobucket pictures are showing up ? … or is it just me ?
Mark.
Hi Mark,
I just got off the Photobucket site. They had a total power outage a few days ago and it is taking them a long time to restore everyone’s service. The problem messed with their back up systems too. They state that they have most of their customers back on line but there are still some without service. I guess I’m one of those lucky ones who isn’t back on line yet.
They said that everyone’s service should be restored within a few days, and they also stated that they are taking steps to make sure this doesn’t happen again.
Computers are wonderful - when they work!
Dave
The finer the wire the quicker you need to be. Just using fine sandpaper carefully will work as well. Pinch the wire gently between your finger and the sandpaper and pull the wire out.
Barry
I got some suggestions from Ed (gmpullman) about how to build the three track signal bridge. He was also kind enough to offer to look up some pictures of bridges as well. I have found a few dozen pictures but many of them are likely too modern for my friend’s needs. Ideally, I would like to get as close as possible to something CN or CP would have used in the steam era.
Ed suggested using an industrial conveyor as a base for the bridge itself. Walthers offers an etched brass kit in HO but not in N. That would have been perfect. He also suggested using Micro Engineering girder kits. I have some spare sprues with the smaller size girders (which Ed gave to me incidentally, thanks again Ed), but despite the overall size being within the proper range, I think that the individual details and components are a bit coarse for N.
So, I will keep scratching my head. If anyone has any ideas, please share them.
Thanks,
Dave
Okay, apparently my cognitive skills have deteriorated more than I had thought.
My friend is modelling modern diesels, so he needs a modern signal bridge. Where I got the idea that he was modelling the steam era heaven knows.[D)]
Anyhow, I have some pictures of modern CN signal bridges so I can get started on the project. Fortunately they are reasonably simple structures.
Dave
Hi, Dave
I recalled an outfit that I bought some HO signal bridges from, Model Memories. These were etched brass and very nicely detailed, alas, no N scale.
While searching I came across this outfit from across the pond:
https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/ncat.html
These are catenary supports but you might be able to “kitbash” several of the styles they offer. Lots of other neat stuff for N as well.
Here’s a closer look at one type of girder:
https://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/zportalbend.html
Good Luck, Ed
[wow][wow][wow][yeah][tup][:D] Those catenary bridges are perfect, and they are inexpensive to boot!!!
I don’t know how you do it Ed but you always come up with answers to my questions. I’m having trouble finding the right words to express my gratitude.[bow][bow][bow][tup]
Happy New Year!!
Dave