Digitrax...is it me or the instruction manual?

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I just bought a Digitrax Chief system that’s been sitting on a shelf for a few years.It’s still brand new,had never even been tested by it’s owner.Just for the sake of testing the system and learning how it works,I assembled a simple loop of track in order to keep any electrical complexity out of the experiment.I then tested the trackwork with DC…no bug at all.

Now I’ve linked my loop to my DSC 100 according to the manual and…so far so good.Every vital signs of the system are what the manual says…no overheating,no shut-down,etc…everything seems OK.

Still following Digitrax’s recommendations,I tried to run a DC loco…but…no run.I know the loco is a great performer(Kato SD-45-N scale,still new),so I tried another known good loco,same results.Even if I repeatedly dial the prescibed sequence,adress being 00,no success.Then I started different sequences for a while when,just before I was about to quit,the DC loco started singing.I then turned the throttle knob and the engine started going,smooth as silk in either direction.

I then tried my brand new factory decoder equipped Atlas Trainmaster with the same results,going silent and smooth,in either direction.Pretty satisfying,although none of the engine’s lamps did turn on at any time.I guess programming will take care of this later.Then it was time to go to bed,so I shut the system off for the day.

My problem is that I’m now trying to get locos running again following the instruction manual but can’t succed.Yesterday I succeeded after tweaking knobs and buttons for a while,out of sheer luck I guess.I try to follow instructions to the letter but that doesn’t work.I know the system is OK so it is a missing instruction in the manual,or a confusing sequence,or…I can’t read english…or what else?

I read through the manuals(system/decoders) and I have a feeling that,even if it probably is a great system,I’m in for some headaches when learning how it works as the instructions often seem somewhat co

2

Check the Digitrax Web site and download their new manual – maybe the one you have is an early version that has been improved.

3

I have a Digitrax Chief system DCS100 command station. I had no problem running a non-decoder equipped DC loco on address 00 when I attempted it.
The motor made a buzzing sound due to the DCC, but I expected that to occur.
(All DCC systems would cause this buzzing on non-DCC locos)

You didn’t mention specifically what steps you did to assign the loco.

On Digitrax, after you turn on the power to the command station, you then have to turn on track power using your throttle. The green light should cone on on the command station. Once Track power is on, you can assign a loco address to the throttle. Please note that the Digitrax DT300 and DT400 throttles are actually two throttles in one (Left and Right knobs on top of throttle). Pressing one of these knobs before assigning a loco will select which one you will be assigning the loco to.

It takes a little practice to get get familar with it, but after a while, it becomes second nature to assign locos to throttles.

I hope this helps.

Dale B.

4

The DCS100 has an internal battery. If the unit has been on a shelf for several years, as mine had, before putting it into use, the battery may be low.

Mine was completely dead and I got the low battery signal on power up. your’s may still have enough power to offset the signal, but not enough for proper operation.

Remove the cover from the DCS100 and replace the battery, that may correct your problems. The unit has a second battery holder to allow replacement while the low battery maintains current memory.

I keep AC power to my unit at all times, just shutting down track power, to prevent degradation of the battery.

I hope this is helpful.

5

I know what you mean about the instruction manual. Very confusing at times. I find myself reading and re-reading it before I get a general sense of what they are talking about. Even more confusing is having to read between three manuals to get to the programming portion of loco operation. Don’t get me wrong, they have a great system, they should just spend more time on their manual writing and instructions.

6

Join the Digitrax member’s site on Yahoo. There is always excellent help provided to answer questions and solve problems.

7

Join a local club for “over the shoulder” help, and/or return to your hoby shop for “hands on instruction.” I agree. The manuals are NIGHTMARES!!!

Re headlight: you may have to punch F0 twice to get the light on. 1st. turns on the “functions”. Second turns on the headlight function. If your machines are pre-programed, REVERSE should also reverse the lights.

Been there. Done That.

8

One of the reasons I decided against Digitrax when picking a system is the user interface is (in my opinion) more complex than it needs to be. I found the manual a bit hard to follow at times as well.

Nothing against Digitrax. I love their decoders and use them almost exclusively.

But as a computer programmer by profession, the Digitrax system user interface rates a C. Typical “designed by an tech guy” feel, IMO.

I started with a Lenz system and used it successfully for 7 years. Then my desire for a true wireless system lead me to select EasyDCC and am quite happy with it.

–Joe Fugate
http://siskiyou.railfan.net

9

Ahhh… Digitrax… well depending on what throttle you got, Digitrax can be very hard or easy. If you have the DT100, buy a lot of Valium. If you own the DT400, you’re probably wondering why so many people think Digitrax is hard to use.

Here are some solutions in ascending order of price/convenience:

  1. Buy the Big Book of DCC
  2. Donwload Decoder pro (free) and get a junker computer to use with your layout, you can program decoders with it and its easier than any other method.
  3. Buy the DT400 throttle.
  4. Re-read the owner’s manual at least 6 times.
10

I have a Digitrax “Big Boy” DCC set-up. Its older than dirt, but works very well. I use the DT100 also. Whenever I go to run trains, I have to completely start over. Remove the battery from the controller, re-insert it, power booster, and lastly, re-attach the throttle. Otherwise, the green lite on the booster does NOT come on (stays orange) and nothing runs. To shut down, I unplug the throttle, then remove battery. Because the manual (now lost) was pretty bad for putting the system in “sleep mode”, I found my way works and I’ve stuck with it for about 8 to 10 years.

11

It’s the owners manual!