Is there any reason not to use either Cat5e or Cat6 Twisted Pair for the LocoNet connection? It seems like I have only seen/read about the 8 wire flat being used. What are the pros/cons?
Thanks
Chris
loconet uses 6 wire, not 8 wire cable.
Tried it, was easier to get flat phone wire from Lowes with the ends and just cut and add ends. I am using the cat5e for the Tortoise duty.
I am using that also for signal wires, lighting and anything else I can bundle together. Going to try it in a muilti story building so the lights on each level can be turned on and off for effects. Also using it in the roundhouses for lighting circuits.
I got about 1500 ft for free when a contractor changes specs for Cat5e to Cat6.
Yes, it’s more expensive, harder to install ends on, and has 2 too many wires. And not required electrically. Flat 6-conductor wire is cheaper and extremely easy to crimp ends on to. You can even get long lengths of flat 6-conductor wire at Walmart. Don’t use them directly, the ends are flipped, but if you cut off lengths you need and crimp on new connectors to the cut end, you can make 2 cables from one and only need 2 new ends.
–Randy
Even if the Cat’s are free, it is still better to use the flat 6 cable. The flat 6 is so much easier to work with and very easy to run under the layout. It is also available at Home Depot.
A different item. I’m using old 300 watt PC power supplies to power my Tortoise switch machines and any other thing that require 12 VDC. I try to keep my accessories off the track power! These power supplies are really cheap, and sometimes free if you find the right source.
Len
Thanks to everyone. I have a ton of leftover Cat6 frpom when I wired my office building for Ethernet (110 drops). I have all of the tools and such for this type of work, and I figured that if I didn’t have to buy anything that it was worth a shot.
Great idea about the computer power supplies for anything requiring 12 vdc; I have a bunch of those as well.
Thanks
Chris
Don’t forget a PC power supply needs a minimum load to regulate properly. Some peopelt hink this is true with all switching power supplies - not so, look in the Jameco or Mouseer catalogs and you’ll see switchers with no minimum load requirements. But they aren’t cheap. Old computer powers supplies are - and it only takes a sandbar resistor or two to make them work fine.
Here is a good site for it: http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/powersupply.htm
I did one to run my Tortoises. Experiments without the load showed the 5V way too high, and the 12V actually low. Adding the load brought the 12V up closer to an exact 12V. I did mine similar to the article, used a toggle on the power on line. I connected an LED to the power good line. And mine had the sense line briefly mentioned that must be tied to +3.3V to work - on my supply it actually was right on the ATX power connector - if you see it before you cut off the connectors.
Also - BE CAREFUL! Even unplugged, the large capacitors in a switching power supply hold a significant charge and can give you a mighty wallop.
–Randy
I buy my LocoNet wiring at Menards, Home Depot, WalMart, Lowes, Office Depot or BestBuy in the telephone section. I can get six conductor phone wire with RJ12 ends already in place. I can get them in 1’, 3’, 6’, 12’ 15’, 25’ and 50’ lengths.
I guess that it would be less expensive to make my own, but you have to be careful crimping the connectors on the ends of the wire and that the wires are in the correct order.
JIM
I use Cat 5 for Loconet wiring. I too have a spool of 1000’ and the tools. I split out 1 pair to carry +12V DC for the UP panel indicators for Loconet. I also use the CAT5 for Tortoise machine and then terminate on 66 split blocks. I use a punch down tool to make connections. It works pretty well. Very easy to change wiring around.
Be aware that the pre-made cables from those places are not correct for Loconet. They will work fine if all you do is use them to chain UP5’s together to plug in throttles, but if you use one of those cables to connect a second booster, it’s gonna be a nightmare because the outputs will be out of phase. IE, the Rail A of the first booster/command station will correspond to Rail B on the second booster because the cable is flipped. It will also be a problem if you connect a BDL168 block detector and eventually use Transponding.
The problem with the ends being flipped (which is the way a telephone is supposed to be wired) is that the wires that carryt he Railsync signal are flipped. They are the outermost wires. The next innermost set are ground, so flipping them makes no difference. The center two are the Loconet itself, and several devices actualy tie the two together - again no issue with the flipping. Remote boosters generate their DCC signal based ont he Railsync, so if it’s flipped, the output of the booster is flipped. Throttle panels work ok because they just use Railsync to power the throttle, polarity doesn’t matter there.
Still, I buy my cables there. But I bought a pack of 6p6c plugs and a METAL crimp tool at Radio Shack. I cut the cables to the required length, and at least for two pieces I only have to crimp 1 new connector.
&nb
Before purchasing cables, I checked for fliping of the wires. (I have bought some that were fliped.) The cables that I purchased run straight through with the wires staying in the same position from end to end. I have two boosters (DCS100 & DB150) connected with these cables and no problems. The last ones I bought were sold under the SBC brand as six wire phone/fax extension cords.
I have a crimping tool and extra modular jacks and can change any cables that have been fliped.
JIM