I prefer the Factory sound. My nerves are shot from time to time and would hate to fry something important when fat fingering an install.
Jeffers - I have something similar to what you were talking about on my layout. I have a beat up old switcher. Rather than chunking it I put it over an inspection pit and under the bench I installed and old DSX EMD sound decoder using a 3 in round speaker. So when i am operating it idles away and if I put it too loud it drowns out every other sound loco. WHen I blow the horn the maintenance guys working on the loco acutally do a little dance from the vibration.
Terry[8D]
Ok got PVC pipe,my speaker is 11/8 in diameter how tall should the PVC be???
JIM
The sound of power…
Is that DC or a DCC decoder? I’m not sure QSI is really serious about getting aftermarket decoders into production.
Having used a lot more Loksound decoders than QSI, I would use Loksound in preference anyday. All my loksound decoder locos have the sound synchronised with the wheels. Something QSI haven’t managed. [2c]
the best way is to start with the longest that can be fit and see how that sounds. I found an 18" open ended pipe sounds really good. I just can’t fit it into anything.
Are you planning to seal the pipe and make it a speaker enclosure, or is it going to be left as an open baffle (band bypass style)? This will make a difference. What sounds good to my ears might not to yours… I often play with variations for hours on end before I choose a final arrangement.
Yes, but I am still not getting their full potenital. The other thing I’ve found is the sound units don’t even output the low signals for the speaker to reproduce. This particular one is for use with a Phoenix sound unit that has a 6 watt output.
The quote from one vendor, “we don’t do low frequencies because we are dealing with small speakers that can’t reproduce them anyway”.
Another issue with small decoders and low frequencies is the amount of current required for producing them. Lower frequencies draw more current because the speaker impedance drops. Remember the speakers impedance rating is nominal - the impedance increases as the frequency increases and vice-versa. Speakers rated at 8 ohms can drop to less than 2 ohms at very low frequencies. Impedance is the opposition of alternating current flow; part of the formula involves the inductive reactance of the speakers voice coil. (I can explain this further if asked).
Another thing to consider is the value of the coupling capacitor. Increasing the capacitor’s value allows lower frequencies to pass. Caution must be taken here because if the combination of the lower frequencies and the lower impedance of the speaker draw too much current, this could overtax the decoder and may damage the outputs. Small speakers used with the recommended coupling capacitor minimize this condition because as the frequency drops the smaller capacitor passes less of it; the lower it goes, the lower the output, protecting the decoder’s amplifier and preventing damage to small speakers not capable of handling the low frequencies.
If you are using large speakers (over three inches), use an additional amplifier to increase the output current; large scale modelers have been doing this for a while. Otherwise, if available, use a sound decoder designed for the larger scales (O gauge, G, etc.). Check out the garden railway forums or ask your DCC sound dealer for assistance.
So far, I have installed Tsunamis in six steam locos, as well as
having 19 QSI locos (17 BLI and two LL). My background includes
both electronics and sound, so I was curious to find out how
difficult doing installs would be.
After learning that Allied and several others had a wide variety
of small speakers at a fraction of what the DCC guys charge, I
ordered several each of about six sizes before even opening any
tenders.
I tried both under-coal and floor installations. I didn’t use any
rear-cup type baffles, but attempted to seal the speaker to the
coal load with gaskets shaped as needed, or to the floor, and seal
the tender at least reasonably well. Not doing this properly is the
main cause of weak low-end output.
The installs all worked. I believe the Tsunami not only has better
sound, but more sound and other options than QSI or Lok, such as
the equalizer.
Every different tender, speaker and install method is going to result
in different frequency response and maximum acoustic power character-
istics. The Tsunami multiband equalizer helps in shaping the
spectrum of a sample to suit the limitations of that particular
combination. FI, for a top-mounted speaker, treble usually needs
attenuation compared to a down-firing speaker. Again, some samples
may have too much bass to feed unaltered to a given small speaker
without overloading it. The equalizer allows you to do some
optimization to get a balanced, reasonably loud output.
The best thing the QSI’s have going for them is having both the steam
and diesel mechanical designs accomodate two speakers, which will
certainly result in louder sound if the amp is up to it. Since QSI’s
have no EQ, they must pre-shape each sample for that particular
install to get a decent sound.
The worst scenario is the user trying to install a decoder that has
no EQ and u
I have only been in the hobby about five years. When I started I knew nothing. My ignorance paid off I think because I went straight to DCC bypassing DC. So I didn’t have to go thru another learning curve. But even in such a short period of time I have seen the hobby advance so much. Sound decoder availability and quality have really boomed. I just finished an install of a Tsunami in a 20 yr old Riv Big Boy. I found out you can’t sit down and tweak a Tsunami in five minutes like the other sound decoders. And thats a good thing. I look forward to the time when the Tsunami goes Diesel. I think in the near future we will see all of the major players having the EQ and other attributes that let the user fine tune his/her sound to their liking. I just rx my QSI upgrade for my Hudson and should have it installed sometime today. The ability to download rev and upgrades as well as additional sounds is a major selling point I think and soon will be the norm IMO.
Terry[8D]
New PVC in the metal tender,the tube for the speaker is 1" high and sounds great,now if I can just get the driver cam to work better.
scubaterry :
I have an old RV BIG BOY 2-8-8-2,I’am going to go with an Tsunami ,But have no idea how to get the Body of the RIV BIG BOY?? mine looks like it has an can motor in it allredy,but still have to get to the motor contacts It has one wire running to the tender now and will not run with out it hooked up,PLEASE show me how to do this?and thanks.
[2c]
The old Rivarossi’s pick up power from one rail through the tender and from the other rail through the locomotive. Assuming you are planning on putting the decoder into the tender, there will now need to be three wires between the loco and tender. One for power from the loco to the decoder, and two from the decoder to the motor.
I’ve never taken the body off a Big Boy, but on my other Rivarossi’s there is a screw right into the steam chest. It then lifts from the front and slides off the back.
Texax Z - I just put a Tsunami in a 1988-90 vintage Riv Big Boy. The tender had no power pick ups at all. Front truck was R (I think) and rear truck was L (or vice versa). At first I just put in a Digitrax DH163. I ran the loco around the track without the tender even hooked up. I was amazed how well it took the 22 in radius curves. I am not an expert on Riv Big Boys by any means I only know about the one I have. I sure they changed designs every once in a while.
Terry[8D]
Oleirish - Sorry just now read your note. We obviously have two different generations of Riv Big Boys. As I stated above my tender was not powered. As far as taking it apart> I imagine they are similar even if the electronics is different.
One screw is located on top beneath the little round cap (I don’t know if that is a sand dome or what?) Just behind the smoke box you have a large square thang next to that is a small round thang. (don’t you old salts be laughing at me). Mine pops off with a fingernail and wala there screw #1.
Beneath the trailing truck is two screws. One is offset from center and one is centered. One of them is screw #2. (sorry can’t remember) The other holds a Lead weight section in place. My money is on the center screw [%-)]
There is another screw under the front power truck but I really don’t think that has to come out. To take it out it looks like you have to remove the truck first. I didn’t do that so I think there is only the two.
Now for the tender. If it is the same as mine it is welded shut. We called loys toys for advice. You just have to carefully score the joint that barely shows on the bottom of the tender until you can get it off in one peice. Once you get the bottom off the sides want to cave in a little so we had to make styrene bulkhead braces to keep the walls at the correct distance. This Big Boy is actually my neighbors. If it were mine or I was doing it again I would by another Tender that is easier to deal with. You have a different generation so maybe yours is easier to work with. Any more questions let me know. I just finished programming the Tsunami and it sounds and runs great. I use a Digitrax Super Chief and it would not program the Tsunami on the programming track or in ops mode. I bought the Soundtraxx Program booster and have had no problems since. Plus it helps with the QSI locos I have that seem to be tempermental without the booster.
terry[8D]
I noticed some writing on the bottom of the Big Boy while scanning for screws. It says"
Rivorossi
Made In Italy
BREVETTATO (Something to do with a Potato, I dont know [:-,])
maybe this wil help establish a model # or time frame.
Terry [8D]
I can’t find any info on my Rivarossi Big Boy,on the tender it says “Rivarossi made in Italy”
here is an picture,it has an can motor in and runs great,but that is all I know about it.
JIM
Jim how is it coming along? Were you able to get the shell off yet?
Terry[8D]
Nope, but will figure it out,thanks to your help,I looked it over but I’am scared to take the trucks off,I can see the back of the motor in the cab,it is easy to trace the tender pickup wire but not sure where the frame wire goes,but will keep looking it over,again thanks for your help.[?][:)]
JIM
Oleirish - On mine the screw under the rear truck can be reached by moving the truck to the side far enough to get a small screwdriver into the screw slot. I didn’t have to take any trucks off to remove the top shell and I suspect you shouldn’t have to either. Check all the hatches and bumps on top and make sure one of them don’t pop off with a little pry of the fingernail.
Terry[8D]
Cool, I think all my Rivarossi are 1972-1982 vintage. Where did you put the speaker? I always thought It would be really cool to have the speaker right there in the smoke box so the sound would seem to come from the cylinders.