My work destroys the value of the model. That is OK. I bought them for my enjoyment, not for any sustained value.
They are just toys to be played with.
No one will want this Overland Models PRR H-32 Covered Hopper in this paint scheme. I paid $150.00 for this model, now it is worthless, but I love it.
Enjoy your brass!
-Kevin
Indeed. These discussions often center around value, in a monetary sense.
Brass I have is all for operation. It’s an essential part of my railroad. Of course, being in narrowgauge helps with that, but it applies to my few pieces of SG brass, too.
The really unique value that brass has is that it enhances your other modeling.
Indeed, dont let the somewhat drop in value of your own paint job stop you from painting your engines!
That being said, if your idea was to buy, paint and sell said engines for a profit, maybe find earning from another source besides paint jobs.
Charles
That’s what I do with my models, brass or otherwise. I only have one brass engine at the moment, and I would never part with it. I’ve been looking around for anything interesting to me, and I figured I’d do some research before I decide to buy anything. No sense in paying more than I have to.
You don’t give yourself enough credit. I think it’s a great looking car. If I found it for sale somewhere, I’d buy it. It’s unique, and I like unique things.
The custom painted brass is not worthless, but on the open market would be valued about as much as if it was unpainted. Since unpainted models need to have the lacquer completely stripped anyway prior to painting, removing paint is about a wash for time and expenses. If it’s a decent custom job for some private road, some buyers would just leave it alone and enjoy it (like perhaps with the model shown above). Others would maybe want to redo it.
I never said custom painted brass was worthless. Please don’t put words into my mouth. I said poorly custom painted brass can be devalued, worth less money than pro-paint would bring. Custom paint is usually worth about as much as an unpainted model. The custom paint just didn’t add anything to the value. It is true that more painters think they are good than those who really are good.
One must be very careful with “factory painted” versus “custom painted by OMI” models. Do not value them the same. True factory paint jobs are usually more durable. They didn’t use Floquil or Scalecoat paint but lead based paints. The Scalecoat is actually garbage (rubs off sharp edges easily if not primered first) and that is why some pro painters today use better quality automotive grade or urethane paints (recommended over on the facebook brass model groups). The joke is “don’t lick your Korean brass factory painted models” because they most likely do (still) have lead paint. I have owned some that were extremely chip resistant and could really be played with just like plastic models without paint or lettering damage.
During the 1980’s and into the 1990’s, Overland Models used several painters here in the U.S. to custom paint brass models. The quality of those painters’ work is very uneven. Some engines and cabeese were fantastically well
I enjoy painting and decaling a brass model as much as any other aspect of the hobby — but — I know my limits.
I’ve watched NKP bay window cabooses from Overland for quite a while. The unpainted versions went for about half what the painted ones were getting.
NKP_caboose-445 by Edmund, on Flickr
When I saw this painted version offered at a very reasonable price I didn’t hesitate. I would have had hours into a paint job like this and I’d much rather focus my hobby time on other ventures.
Factory paint doesn’t always relate to 100% accuracy, either.
Some years ago I bought a “Creek” series 20th Century observation car. I had to order it in advance from Shoreham Shops (Railway Classics).
When the car arrived it had 3" white striping where it should have been 2". It looked awful and Ajin repainted it at no cost to me.
I still see some of the incorrect ones out there selling for top dollar to unsuspecting buyers. About $5000 for an 8 car set! Caveat emptor.
Cheers, Ed
I like the NKP cabeese too but just never found the right one to buy…they always bring a good amount.
Agree with this 100% I have bought 4 in the last year - amongst other less exotic purchases.
It really depends what you go for. For example I bought a 2nd hand BLI C&O J3a I didn’t like the blackened rods - fixed that. I couldn’t get over how bably the drivers’ white lining had been done - fixed that (nervously) and I white lined the trailing truck and tender bogie wheelsets. Now IMHO it’s better than any brass I’ve seen. Why do I say this? Because the J3’s are all way back into the 80’s I think and probably rehashes of much earlier examples so in this case Broadway was much much better. To me, perhaps not others. So my belief if that you really have to get to the mid 90s and later to get brass better than the latest from the big guys and there’s always the risk that you - as has been said - buy something and the next thing it’s out in plastic / die cast and may be better or equal and will for sure diminish the value of your brass.
However, I doesn’t need to be that way. I bought an Overland 4-8-2 C&O J2 and another of theirs a C&O 4-6-2 F-19 with all the adornments. They won’t come out in plastic and if they do I am happy where I am. I got them for $900 ea unused (oh I know Bachmann did the George Washington locomotive but I can’t count that as nice as they were back when) and I don’t think that’s super expensive these days when rrp on most BLI steam is north of $750 now.
So you pay your money and roll the dice. You may loose some money but not much I don’t believe.
Show us if you get something nice
Worthless was my word, not yours.
I always describe my stuff as having low value.
Many times I have dealt with widows and families of deceased model railroaders who were told for years how valuable all the trains were, just to find out how little they were worth when the collection needs to be sold.
I have made sure that my family does not think there is a “goldmine in those models”, when selling them for any return will be difficult.
My wife knows the 30 or 40 items that are worth selling, and the 2,000 items she can just let someone have that is willing to remove the layout when I am gone.
I quoted you in my post to give context, but I was not trying to add anything to your original comment.
-Kevin
That’s very nice indeed. Factory quality. I can never get decals as good as that. They always have a decal look no matter what tutorial I watch, whereas that looks stencilled.
I’d say an Overland car like that must be worth $150 no matter what.
The thing is the endlessly increasing prices for plastic are supporting a base price for brass to look at the glass half full for once.
Don’t know if you are thinking about acquiring the WMC SP MK-10 2-8-2 we discussed in a separate thread, but if you are, a nonprototypical paint job (like painting it for the Midland Terminal) will typically take a bite out of the price, no matter how well it’s done.
There’s one exception- if you make the physical modifications that model would need to simulate the prototype you want (such as removing the train indicator boards), you could potentially raise the value - if the job is very well done (by that I mean quality workmanship and modifications that are historically correct).
I realize I’m answering a question you didn’t ask, so feel free to disregard it if this isn’t the project you have in mind.
Thanks for the kind words. The paint on this model went on very well. Sometimes everything goes well, sometimes not. Decals are something I have an incredible amount of experience with, not just model trains, but wargaming and scale models as well.
Practice, and Daco Strong, are the only real adivice I have.
-Kevin