Hi all, I was thinking about doing a double deck ho scale layout, but with modules. Would this be fessiable? The bottom module was going to be 2’x4’ and the top 18" x 48". Spacing would be 16". My Idea was to have it so that one could remove top piece to work on the lower part and for ease of transport. Ill post design ideas
I’ll ask the obvious question - how do you intend to support the upper level? Especially if you want it easily removable?
Next obvious question - how do you intend to light the lower module? You mention ease of transport. Does this imply that the layout will be traveling, and set up in various shows and meets? If yes, know that many train shows are in poorly lit halls, making the lighting on the lower that much more of a problem.
If you are setting up the layout at trains shows and meets, getting sufficient horizontal space is seldom the same issue that it is for home layouts. With plenty of space available, along with the construction and setup headaches of vertically stacked decks, there is really little reason for a double deck layout .
If the double deck modules are strictly for a home layout, why do that to yourself? Especially using 4ft modules with a support system for an upper deck for a layout that is only going to be transported once or twice. If you need to sectionalize the layout for a future move, make your sections (not modules) 6ft long. A 6 ft section can go vertically through a doorway, and therefore can be manuvered almost anywhere in a house. There is no reason for the decks to be joined together; leave each deck as a separate section at all times.
Probably not what you wanted to hear - but I firmly believe in KISS, especially when it comes to modular layouts. At our modular club, modules that are too heavy or (especially) too awkward to transport or setup get abandoned after a few showings. The owner realizes the awkward module is not worth the effort, and builds a simpler replacement. We had one 90 degree module with a canyon scene that weighed about 70 lbs, and took up almost an entire transport vehicle by itself. It is being retired, despite a scenic high point.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred W
A lot of good points i think more information is needed to beable to understand the intent of the double decker layout. I have a double decker layout at home but it takes a helix to get from one level to the next 6 tier 2% grade helix. Is this mainline suppose to run all together or run independent one on one level and one on the next. The lighting you could use rope lights and run them through the frame of the modules. The support system would be the real kicker here. Good luck!
7 miles through the MO FFAT
Yes it is feasible, but as Fred W rightly points out it is a direct contradiction of the KISS principle, which I generally am a firm believer in, but every once in a while…
It is a concept that I am seriously considering with the following provisos.
It would be more sectional than modular regarding the track plan though I would have, in storage, “adaptor modules” that would join my sections into the local modular groups track and wiring specifications.
Point to point, though bottom level will most likely have provision for roundy roundy. Minimum mainline radius 36". Maximum grade 3%. Manually operated switches. DCC.
The framing timber I use is 2’ x 1" the top being 3/8" MDF. The sections would be 6’ long and the widest would be 30".
The top level would be supported by a cantilever framework at a height of 53", the bottom on their own removable legs at 33".
The helix, the two level swinging door section and the bottom sliding drawer "staging cassette would be “permanent” fixtures.
The lighting would be provided by LED strip lighting.
Reason why??? A long run in a relatively small space and because possibly I’m a [D)]
At the present time nothing is set in concert and is a product of my warped mind. I regard the building of the “monstrosity” as a challenge, as long as I don’t over engineer it. [banghead] [banghead]
Have FUN.
Cheers,the Bear.
Well thanks for the feed back.
Reason I’m doing it this way is that well I’m 25, about to graduate from college and would like to have a layout that I can be transported easily if need be. The other reason is that I thought I would try something different.
I was planning using LED lighting to light the lower level. I was planning on having a maximum 2% grade, but that can be changed.
Below is a quick model I did in Inventor.
Both module’s legs will be removable and the top module will be removable so that it’ll be easier to transport and make it easier to work on the lower module. If I have any industries in the back of the lower module i was thinking of using electro magnets to uncouple cars so one doesn’t have to duck under to uncouple.
But this it for now.
LION has three decks around two walls, him calls it the “Back 40” since each wall is over 20’ long.
Him made several dozen “bents” to support the layout, the weight of the layout rests on the floor, lugs attach it to the wall, but only for support, not weight.
The top deck is 12" wide and is against the wall, the middle deck is 16" wide and starts 6" away from the wall to allow for the space occupied by the bents. The middle deck is 16" below the upper deck and so with the extra width and the set back of the upper deck is easy to work on.
The Lower deck is also 16" wide, also 6" from the wall, but is only 12 inches below the middle deck. It was assumed, when built, that these would be staging tracks, and so these were installed before the middle deck was built. Of course things change, and the staging tracks have been torn out to be replaced with a four track mane lion. THAT was more difficult to install, but in the end was done.
You did not indicate how you would move your trains from one level to the other. The LION has a 5’ x 18’ table on the east middle of the room, and this has a helix from the lower level to the middle level as well as two stations, 34th Street on the middle isle, and Prospect park on the east isle.
The LION also has a 6’ wide by 20’ long table on the west middle of the room. Trains enter this table on the middle level and can loop down to the lower level or up to the upper level. On the center isle of this table Canal Street and South Ferry are on the Lower level, Smith 9th Street is on the middle level, and 42nd Street is on the upper level. On the window side of this table Courtland Street is on the lower level, Nevins Street is on the first Mezzanine level, Lenox Avenue is on the second Mezzanine level, 8th Street is on the middle level, and Coney Island is on the upper level.
Gee, I hope that is all clear to you. The LION doe not want to confuse you, although confused peop
LION assumes that you are not an engineering major, which is to say, him thinks you will need much more support for your upper level. Methinks it cannot hang out in outer space like that.
32 feet per second per second, or some number like that seems to stick in my mind from physics courses that I have taken in the distant past.
LION suggests that you build your lower modules now, and work on the upper ones when you own the wall that you want to attach them to.
ROAR
I have to agree there is no way that the top level will be stable enough to lay track and run trains on you need more support. I do like the idea however because i am one of those mrr that are never completely satisfyed and am always looking to change things around. Im to deep into my layout now to go back. The only other way i could think of is to make the top level the same width, but shrink the bottom level down so you could add some supports for the top you could make it all removeable, then you could use the bottom supports for your backdrop all removeable in some manner. You would lose a little train space on the bottom but there could still be enough to model nice scenes with. having 4 supports as apose to 2 will help a ton.
Denver to Grande junction