I have a variety of rolling stock with a variety of couplers, and am looking to convert everything to one style - probably Kadee. The coupler bar (the curved metal wire that hangs down) slightly brushes some of the turnouts and the DVD that MR Magazine sent around recently suggested cuttng a bit off the end to solve that (apparently not uncommon) problem. But wouldn’t it mak more sense to just bend each one up slightly? Or is there a coupler designed to raise this bar so it gives more clearance? I only need a 32nd of an inch at most.
Bend it. There are wire bending pliers made that perform this task well.
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80892
Hello plord, I was just reading the forums and came across your topic. I model in “N” scale, and I believe the Kadee’s and Micro Trains couplers are basically the same, except for the size. You mentioned bending the trip pins up slightly, Well the problem with doing that is the magnet may not pull the pins to the side, they need to be real close in order to work. And the magnets you can buy at the Hobby store aren’t quite strong enough to work. I found out about Rare earth ( Neodymium ) magnets, Believe me these magnets are strong, You even have to be carefull handling them, just getting them close causes them to fly together. I ordered a few and they work perfectly glued under the track. they are more expensive though, and you have to make sure you order them with the poles on the sides.They have about every shape and size you can imagine. Heres just one site for you to look Amazing Magnets. Check these Magnets out for yourself, They are amazing Good luck. Bob
Bob, good point about bending them too far. Kadee makes a guage that has a ledge on it so you can accurately postion the pins.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
Thanks for the link to the magnets, i will check them out myself.
I have encountered three causes for low coupler “hoses” on magnetic couplers. They should be checked in this order.
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Entire coupler is low - correct by adding a washer between the truck and the body bolster. If this is impossible (‘Talgo’ coupler mount or truckless car), consider using an offset-shank coupler.
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Coupler sags because there is vertical clearance in the mount box. Correct by installing a shim above the coupler.
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Coupler is correct height but level, and hose is still too low - correct by bending the hose (gently!!!) with the tool linked above or common pliers. Bend just enough to clear the ledge on a Kadee coupler gauge, and check both at the gauge and on whatever piece of trackwork highlighted the problem.
There is one other cause of dragging hoses that isn’t coupler related. Check to make sure that nothing between the rails extends above railhead height. All it takes is one high board in a timber grade crossing to create a problem.
Why the reference to a truckless car in 1. above? I’m modeling a system that had a preponderance of 4-wheel freight cars, and steam with 3-axle rigid-frame tenders. Un-American, true - but the NYC and UP 4-10 pedestal tenders fall in the same category.
Chuck
Before you bend the “gladhand”, you should check to see if the coupler itself is at the right height. If the gladhand is still dragging after correcting the height, then cut it off entirely if you do not use (or intend to use) the uncoupling magnets.
Andrew
NOTE: I guess Chuck was writing at the same time…!
If your doing uncoupling by hand and don’t plan on EVER using magnets, you can cut them right off completely.
If you are gonna do that, then save a bunch of money and use these. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/112-109 6 sets for less than what one set of #5 cost. Fred
Thanks to all who posted advice. All the answers in under 3 hours - God Save The Web! I have all the situations described including high timber grade crossings, which of course I can correct myself. That wire pending tool and guage seem like essential tools and as I am in no hurry on this aspect of the project, I will go get those. At least the guage will insure uniformity across all my rolling stock. I am doing this project backwards, doing all th structures and scenery (and track) before running the train, but my project is more history than railroad (see RR project website: http://home.att.net/~p_lord/newwoodstock.html or
RR modeling website: http://home.att.net/~p_lord2/newwoodstock2.html
Thanks again to all. Saved my bacon on this one.
You’re correct on the heght of the coupler arm, 1/32 inch above the railhead. As recommended above, get the Kadee coupler height gauge. For reliable operation, the coupler MUST be mounted rigidly, at the right height, and with the correct clearance for the coupler bar. We’re only talking $4.00 here for the gauge, and it’s worth many times that in the headaches it can save you in the operation by using it properly.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page120.htm
The link to the gauge bears repeating.
Don’t forget to remove the Kadee gauge from the track when you are done! The most obvious short circuit is sometimes the hardest to find. Please don’t ask how I know this.
yours in tracing shorts
Fred W
Glad to see I’m not the only one that does things like that. [:D]
the coupler gauge…I thought it was a short button tester, makes 'em pop right out huh! Good smiles, I’ve done that, too.
In seriousness, I think all my kadees may be a tad low for HO but work just fine as long as they’re all the same. Ever get down to track level and look straight across that kadee gauge (the #4 coupler), it droops a bit seems to me. Over the years I’ve thought about that but had what I thought were too many mounted to change as long as they all work, and they do. I’ve never clipped a hand off but I’ve sure bent a bunch to raise them up. Never had a problem with any magnets pulling them open though. Thanks for sharing.
Gary
I would never cut pins off! You may want to sell the car and the buyer would offer less because he wanted a car with the pins. I think the pins simulate the brake hoses. Once it is done and you change your mind, you have to get new couplers. I used to adjust the pins with needle nose pliars. After breaking a few, I invested in the special tool mentioned above. It was worth. If you overbend, you can always readjust the pin.
Ditto!
I made a fixture for my Kadee gauge. It may be a litle elaborate, but it looks good too. I attached (and ballasted) a 3’ section of flextrack to a piece of 1x4). I attached the gauge with small picture nails. At the other end of the fixture, I stuck a pushpin between the rails. This keeps the cars from rolling off the other end.
Get one or more couple hieght gages. Both Kadee and MicroMark offer them. On addition to what Marlon did - put a hieght guage at both ends - that way you check your rolling stock without removing it from the rails.
Gary: the current production Kadee guages come with a #5 and a #58, the old #4 equipped gage is no more.