May 2010 issue of Model Railroader mag. Page 26 article “Build a handy drawbridge.” Because the bridge opens upwards the rails would pinch preventing the opening of the bridge. The author used European-style concealed cabinet hinges. I assume that this hinge allows the clearance needed so the rails do not pinch. My internet search shows several different designs of that type of hinge. Can anyone provide more specific info on this hinge? A link would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ROC C&O
If you can arrange it so that the pivot point (axle) of the hinge is at least as high as the railheads, you should be able to use most any good-quality hinges. For hiding them, just bury them in scenic material that is flexible, like bushes or some such.
Have fun, George
I’m actually working on such a project.Fortunately,I’ve salvaged hinges from an old photocopier that we scrapped a couple years back with this in mind then.These are spring loaded and not too bulky,real nice.I’m eluding the rail pinching by having the bridge opening downwards so will not have to hide the hinges.I’ll have to limit to very low profile scenery on this bridge and be careful when going across but then nothing is perfect.Just my two cents…
To hide the hinge on the one I plan to copy, the club used an old piece of carpet over the whole seam, hinges and all. It made a brown base to which they added the normal secnic materials to cover. I would think that it might be a good use for the new grass mats that seem to be in disfavor with some modelers, but could be used in a small area, if some disguising was added.
Good luck,
Thanks to all for the info and ideas. ROC C&O
The standard euro style cab hindge may not allow for enough lift out before pivoting. These are designed for an overlay door, The compound hindge used on the swing out “lazy suzans” or a Soss hindge may work better. http://doorhardwaresupply.com/soss/index.htm
Of coarse regardless of the hindge style and pivot axis, you should allow for some beveling of the mating panels (subroadbed) and incorporate some sort of locating pin to always drop in alignment.
My bridge hinges to drop down.
Gives me a nice tight joint at the hinge point, and a barrel bolt latches the other end securely.
The re-railer is cut in half, with the tunnel end sticking out about 1/2", protected by the tunnel portal. The bridge swings up, and the rerailer serves as a stop (which is why it’s screwed to the deck…) Aligns everything perfectly every time. I use a phone jack for the power connection.
The black lattice stock keeps trains from hitting the floor, and also protect the track when the bridge is open.
Lee
Who in their right mind would use a drop down hinge?
Here’s mine. Much better than a drop down hinge. Wait a minute [%-)]
