I would like to hear from only those who DRILL nail holes in the center of ties to get the track to hold its` shape while the caulk dries under the ties. I know there is an aluminum jig on the market for doing this but it can only be used for Atlas code 83 track and I am using Peco code100 track. What I would like to know is your method to accomplish this task . I have been practicing but I am snapping bits like crazy.I am using a #64 bit in a pin vise. I gave up using a dremel. Thanks
Bob, why would you want to drill holes through the ties? The ties are likely to split, and if they don’t you still have a hole to cover up. Most of us use pins or tacks next the the rails and wieghts (canned goods are great wieghts) to hold the track in place while the adhesive sets up. Once the adhesive is set, remove the pins and wieghts.
I’ve been laying a lot of Atlas flex track on my helix and have had to drill nail holes in some ties and into 1/2 inch plywood. One question that I have is what type of track are you using? If it is Atlas flex track then there are holes on the under side that have been started for you. All you have to do is push a tack through them to make the hole. When I lay flex track and have to remove ties on the ends to solder the rail joints together I usually lose the end nail holes so I drill new ones. I use a pin vise and small drill bits. I haven’t had any problems going through the ties. I bought a pin vise from MicoMark years ago that has a threaded mechanism that allows the pin vise to spin back and forth as you move a slider up and down the shaft. It works great.
Chris
I use a 1/8th in drill bite with a cordless drill. I just break thought the tie and stop. I then use a nail punch and push in the spike. You can just paint the ties and ballast over the nail head. I all so use over sizes spikes, I think they are O scale but not sure. I have blind and don’t notices them from where I site. They hold in cork better than the small spikes for HO.
If, you are going to ballast, you don’t need the chalk. Ballast and glue will hold the track down well. If you are not going to ballast right away, spikes will hold down the track for some time.
My not so new section (2 years in the making) track is only held down with spikes. I drill a few extra holes where flex track is hooked together in turns. You can all so drill holes on the inside of a turn where you may not see the spikes.
It has worked for me.
Cuda Ken
If you just have to have holes in the ties, cut the head off a wire nail the same size as (or the next size larger than) your track nails, chuck it in your Dremel or cordless other drill and use the pointy end to drill (melt) your hole.
I do two things that eliminate the need for nail holes in ties:
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Pre curve the flex, so it will assume and hold the desired geometry without any fastenings. This includes using pliers and gentle force to get the last two inches of the rail to bend.
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Put track nails on both sides of the rail, between the ties. Remove after the caulk sets. This way you can anchor the spot that needs to be anchored, not just the spot where there’s a hole in a tie.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on flex, with hand-laid specialwork)
I use a ,042 diameter drill bit in a small pin vise. Unlike some responses, I cannot imagine using a cordless drill.
The key is to hit the center of the tie, not so much from side to side as from front to back. The ties never break on me. I use Atlas Code 83 track. I don’t bother with the starter hole on the underside. I just drill them where I need them.
I nail through the tie into Woodland Scenics Foam Track Bed which is on top of plywood. The nails are easily removed with snip nose pliers. I don’t even bother with caulk or other adhesives. The nails do the job.
After ballasting, the nails can still easily be removed, the holes are not really visible or at least hardly noticeable. In fact, in those instances where I have had to re-align track or add a turnout, I have to search to find the nail heads. Incidentally, I use Atlas nails which work great.
One other point. At one time early on, I was going to lay track right on top of plywood without the foam road bed or cork. The nails did tend to bend using that approach. I guess the foam road bed provides a dampening effect in addition to looking good and quieting the engines as they roll along.
Hope this helps.
Rich
I know what the problem is-- he’s using Atlas track with the Concrete ties…
[(-D]
I drill ordinary plastic tied flextrack with a drill out of my 61-80 numbered drill set. I use an ordinary pin vise. I don’t have serious drill bit breakage problems. You have to take care to keep the pin vise straight up and down, if it bends to the side the drill will break. Also make sure the bit is cutting and clearing the chips. You ought to get a pair of curly plastic shavings coming up as you turn the drill. If not, back the drill out and clear the chips out of the flutes.
My track is a mix of Atlas, Peco, and Micro Engineering and I never noticed any difference between them as far as drilling ties goes. Or anything else for that matter.
I don’t believe in drilling under power with the tiny drill bits. They just break.
Out of the mists of time I can still hear my junior high school industrial arts teacher … if the bit breaks that is a sign you are not letting the bit do the work. Perhaps the bit is worn and a fresh bit is needed.
Nailing or pinning the track in place is a personal decision. I use the predrilled holes when I caulk Atlas flex in place. For other makes, or for places where Atlas has not provided a hole, I do drill a very small hole for a T pin – not a nail per se – and nails or pins are never driven all the way in but are removed once the caulk sets. The small holes become just about invisible.
I bought a special attachment for a cordless screwdriver that holds small bits in place. It is not ultra precision – no one would mistake it for a drill press – but it does enable you to have a much lighter touch for this kind of work than a Dremel or a cordless drill would because the speed is so much slower. Just let the bit do the work, using a starter dent created with a sharp nail, and back it out frequently to remove the plastic corkscrew stuff.
Dave Nelson
I feel strongly that Chuck’s method is what will yield the best results, and have used them in the past.
You can actually pre-bend or curve flex rails so that they want to retain some curvature when you release them to sit naturally.
Also, you have to cut flextrack at times to make things fit. When you do that, and intend to caulk the ties into place along your intended centerline, you are sometimes forced to use nails temporarily until the caulking sets. I have even driven small drywall screws between the ties to keep hidden tracks in place, but nails on either side of the rail foot, inboard and outboard of the ties, works well too to keep the ends of flex in place.
I do use a cordless drill with a tiny bit, something thinner than a small finishing nail for wood trim that comes in almost all drill bit kits you can buy here and there. Take your time, keep the weight of the drill off the bit, keep the bit vertical, and just give the trigger a slow squeeze, in three revolutions or more the bit is through…that is all you need…let the nail do the rest. And I do, obviously, drill some extra holes where none end up being within the last 1" of my trimmed length of flex.
There are many ways, especially when there is a will to use them.
-Crandell
I use a 1/16" drill bit in a cordless drill, and as was said, don’t press down on the drill bit. I do not glue the ties down, since I like a nailed down track - seems less likely to come loose. Besides I’ll be gluing the ballast down later, and I don’t want things superglued down - might want to modify things later on!
Jim in Cape Girardeau
2 words…
Contact Cement.
'nuff said.
David B
Gluing track ? ? that’s what the pre drilled nail holes are for, what happens when you want to move track or change your layout? this must be the reason there is no used track on the market, trying to remove glued down track must be a nightmare, there are staplers with very narrow staples that fit perfectly over the ties, you can lay track as fast as you can staple, removing track is a snap with small screwdriver prying up and the staple is removed, glue?? yikes.
For my dual gauge track I needed the third rail. I had Central Valley tie strips with the standard rails glued. I glued the third rail but secured it with a few spikes.
For the spikes I drilled holes with a pin vise.
Wolfgang
I drill the holes using a cordless 10.8v Dremel motor tool on low speed about setting 2 or 3. I use a small bit the size of the track nail. The key for me is to use a scratch awl to just lightly start the hole, that way you don’t need to put downward pressure on the drill to keep the bit from wandering. Focus on holding the drill upright and steady (resting your hand on the benchwork helps keep it steady) and ease it down into the tie, through the roadbed and a little ways into the subroadbed. I rarely break a bit.
Good luck
Paul
Use a Dremel Mini Might or Multi Pro, place your bit in the center of the tie with just enough pressure to hold in place, switch the tool on and almost right back off and your hole should be drilled. As long as you pay attention to the timing and do not drill into sub base very much your bit should stay sharp for a very long time. I most cases a bit lasts me as long I want. The point will eventually dull and will need replacement.
Ed d91
Hi!
I’ve been using a pin vise with a dentist’s drill bit for years - and it still works beautifully. Ask you dentist for some old bits, and use the kind that look like a drill bit (rather than a sanding or deburring bit). By the way, I’ve used the same bit since 1993 on two pretty sizeable layouts.
Mobilman44