98% of my search results online for “Drop in sound decoder for Atlas RS3” is MRC with a drop in decoder with speaker for the original/early 80’s release Atlas RS 3’s (I have (2). Also the less than glowing comments with MRC decoders. Then, too, are the sound decoders that require a separate sound bug which I assume means a speaker which if this is the case then a complete “drop in” sounds like the better option.
Being new to this but wanting to try my hand at an installation I’m asking the experts here for input as to a recommended drop in sound decoder with speaker affixed options.
Sorry to say an all in one decent sound decoder for your little alcos is not available. A better alternative is a board replacement with separate speaker is the best choice for sound and performance. Look to something like this from Loksound, Tsunami, and QSI solutions. http://www.esu.eu/en/products/loksound/loksound-select-direct/
All three manufactures have them and are very very good. You will have to order the sound set for the ALCO when ordering the decoder.
MRC is the only one with the speaker on the decoder board. Any other decoder will be better simply because you can use a larger speaker and enclosure. The one on the MRC board is out of necessitry very small.
The ‘circuit board’ in those locos is nothing more than a piece of palstic with a coupel of wires clipped in which press against the motor leads. Any decoder in the ‘Atlas/Athearn’ form factor will fit, they all have notches that fit over the pegs that hold the factory piece of plastic in place. You will have to cut back the light pipes and affix individual LEDs for lighting.
For best results, one os the weights should be cut back to fit a speaker and enclosure. As an alternative, a smaller spoeaker and enclosure can go in the cab space, with some cutting.
I am a fan of Loksound, the Loksound Select Direct will drop in. They have the proper Alco 244 sounds, and in their horn collection they have the one I need for my railroad, which had the M3RT-1 horn.
The MRC RS-3 decoder is absolutely HORRIBLE sounding. I picked up one cheap, just to see if it was any good. Not worth it. Do the extra work and use a good decoder. I have 4 of those locos, and all will be getting Loksounds and the biggest speaker I can figure out how to fit without totally removing the weights.
This is an older Atlas RS3 I installed a Tsunami decoder and 16mm X 32mm speaker in. The Loksound Select Direct board is the same physical design, The rear weight was cut down and used as a mounting block for the speaker …
Thanks for the pic…but from the shape of the weights it looks like my Atlas RS3 predates yours, where the (2) weights are pressed up inside the the ends of the upper body above the wheel sets which would require a very narrow rectangle shaped speaker that fits up inside the thin upper body. Guess I’ll have to take a closer look at the shape of the weights in my RS3…
Thanks (again) Randy. Your last paragraph confirms most of the MRC comments I’d seen.
I’ll check out the Loksound Select Direct drop in as you recommended with the Alco 244 sounds. As for the speaker placement, I did find a link showing the conversion to DCC with the RS3 Atlas version I have - even had suggested part numbers…and I thought I’d saved the link in my favorites but didn’t…and I haven’t been able to find it again (but still searching trying different RS3 conversi
I’m over 50 too - way over 50 but I can still say I’m in my 50’s, for now at least![:'(]
I think you will have to remove some of the weights to fit a decent speaker and enclosure. I’m not sure from your last post, but I suspect that you may have missed that point from Mark’s post.
If you could show us some pictures you might get some good suggestions about how to fit the sound in. Its going to be tight whatever you use.
This shows the steps for a DCC conversion for my RS3 version. Note the size/shape of the weights that press into each end of the body. With this method the speaker is mounted in the top of the cab so the only weight modification is for placement of the bulbs…but my preference is LED’s. Randy suggested the LokSound Direct drop in which has the required resisters for LED headlights. What I don’t know is what size LokSound speaker and baffle plus LED’s to buy at this point. For the speaker size, my first thought is trying to fit a quarter inside the cab for size and then measure it in mm to get an idea …
And just to mention…I’m 73…but the user name wayover50 makes me feel better…(wink)…
The various early Atlas RS units are functionally identical. All made by Kato. On some of my RS-3’s, the weights usually stay stuck inside the hoods when lifting it off the shell, on others they drop out easily. But all the weights are identical.
For speaker size - this is where a dial caliper comes in handy, to measure available space. Another trick is to use a small block of balso and sand/carve it to size, then measure it once you have the largets size that fits but still allows the shell to slip on properly… Loksound has a huge selection of speakers, plus you aren’t limited to just their speakers. In fact, if those are 8 ohm speakers, the Select can use the exact same one that you used.
What are the specs I should look for when selecting the LED’s, i.e., clear, or color, size, volt/amp rating, etc.,?
And once I have the sizing should I look for a speaker with or without a baffle?
Last, I have (2) Athearn GP9’s of the same vintage that I’d like to keep/convert as well. Will the same type Loksound Direct drop in board work (and fit) in these?
Proper LEDs for an RS-3 would be golden-white color ones, not the glaring bluish-white of other white LEDs. I use Miniatronics Yelo-Glo ones in my locos. The Select Diect already had resistors for the LEDs so they can be connected right to the decoder.
Speaker size is usually given without the baffle. They will sound weak, low volume, and absolutel yno bass, without a baffle. You’ll want to get one with a baffle. It’s possible t make your own by using bits of palstic to build up a sealed chamber around the speaker using the shell as aprt of it, but usually easier to install a baffle made for the speaker.
Athearns of that vintage will be Blue Box locos. There is no circuit board, everything will have tio be ahrd wired. You’ll also want to test the motor current. The Loksound select can handle .75 amp continuius, the regular Loksound V4 can handle 1.1 amp. If the stall current is higher than this, you might want to look at remotoring.
Since there’s no circuot board, you can do just about anything. If you cut down the tabs ont eh truck and solder wires on (repalce that huge metal clip cross the motor. This will leave a good amount of space above th gear towers for a speaker and enclosure. A small piece of sheet styrene can be glued over the motor to make a shelf to hold the decoder and wires up out of the way.
Really appreciate the information and hand holding Randy. I’ll go with the Miniatronics Yelo-Glo LED’s you suggested and a baffle with the speaker. As for the Athearn GP9’s, as best I can remember they were Blue Box … which probably was like all Athearn diesel locos 30 years ago.
With my (2) Atlas RS3’s the least hassle to convert the GP9’s are going back in the packing box they were in when we moved to the condo. Given my age and the amount of new scenery build ahead of m
Unless those GP9’s are special for some reason, you might get more mileage out of sellign them off and picking up some Proto 2000 GP9s, which can be had with sound and DCC already installed. The Athearn ones are actually too wide (though tha tmeans a bigger speaker woudl fit) and aren’t necessailry GP9’s - there was some confusion back when that the loco was a GP7 without dynamics and if it had dynamics it was a GP9 - not true, but MR said it, Lionel used it in their ads, and so did Athearn.
I grind the sides of the weights down slightly so they are a loose fit in the shell. Yes, this is a later run than yours - on the ones like yours, I glue the weights to the chassis. Makes for a much easier installation with everything attached to the chassis. The 16mm X 32mm speaker and enclosure is a perfect slip fit into the RS3 shell.
Unfortunately it appears the Pennsylvania road name to maintain continuity with the (5) DCC engines I bought (and all of my coal cars and caboose’s) isn’t among the HO Proto GP9 DCC w/sound options. For now I’ll have to stay with the “value” DCC only Bachmann GP9 I bought. After the fact I know but I bought the DCC lower tier/cost Bachmann’s before I knew the right questions to ask about DCC and the cost to upgrade it with a good sound decoder and speaker would end up costing me close to $280 total spent…really not a cost effective move.
Randy…Do you have a product number for the LED color and mm size you used in your RS3’s? I’ve been looking at the Miniatronics LED listing and if it’s there I’m not seeing a “golden white” color option.
They’re called “YeloGlo”. They’re on the white LED page. 3mm or 5mm either will work, the 5mm matches up closer to the light pipe.
What I did was cut the light pipe off behind the first set of pegs that hold it to the shell, near the ends of the hoods, and the polished the cut with fine sandpaper. I used heat shrink to hold the LED in contact with the end of the light pipe, but going forward i will drill shallow holes and then glue the LEDs in with Faller Xpert cement.
The light pipes kind of have to stay becasue the ends are not flat, they have protrusions that are the lenses for the light castings. If you totally remove the light pipes you would need some small lenses from MV and somehow mount the LED to the end wall so it shines out the lenses, just as easy to cut down the existing light pipes and use them.
Gotcha. It helped, too, with a visit to my LHS earlier today…saw packages of both the 3mm and 5mm diameter YeloGlo LED’s. Makes sense now having seen other packages labeled as “bright blue like daylight” or words to that effect. The 5mm looked a bit on the big side to me but you’ve been there and done that so that’s what I’ll buy.
And, yeah, I see what you mean with keeping the light pipes because of the lens protrusions that fit into the shell. From what I’ve read some guys have cut a “V” in the end of the trimmed light pipes and glued the LED’s inside the “V”. Not having done this before I don’t know if just gluing the LED against the light pipe is ok or I should mount it such that the end of LED is at the bottom of the “V” facing forward.
Also, the more I’ve looked at the what’s involved to mount a speaker I’m now leaning toward milling one of the weights to
Well, the TSU AT1000 w/Alco 244 prime mover decoder install was successful including a test run .
Next I snipped each light pipe 3/8" back from the lens, filed elongated notches in each and glued in 3mm yellow glo LED’s then wired them to the board. Then did a test run, so far so good.
Next I cut down one gear tower weight to mount a QSI 16mm x 32mm speaker and enclosure leaving just under 1/8th inch thickness then cut down the second gear tower weight for the stay alive cap. I Goo’ed the cap in place on one weight and then the speaker/enclosure to the other weight, then secured the weights to the frame mount. Did a test run and lights and sound checked out (caveat noted below)…
On a roll now, I taped the loose wiring to the decoder and motor housing leaving slack in the LED wiring for wiggle room to lay the body along side with the lenses glued into the body, tucked the LED wiring on top of the decoder while carefully sliding the body onto the frame and…the speaker enclosure bottomed approximately 1/4 of an inch above the frame mount (and no doubt the LED leads which were pressed up against the top of the body).
I filed the gear tower weight “legs” to allow the weight to rest a hair’s clearance above t
