Use Model Masters flat, never had a proublem with that.
The finish you get when it’s -20ºF is more cube-like, rather than pebbly or orange peel-like. [swg]
A vented spray booth and a two-stage respirator takes care of the smell.
Wayne
I also have had much better results with Model Masters flat than Dullcote, despite both being Testors products.
I don’t know why, but it is so.
Dullcote is a Lacquer solvent base…Model Master is more of a mineral spirit base.
I would be curious to know what kind of paint the OP’s friend used to paint the shells…that would make a big differance in the final result of the finish…which looks to Me like it attacked the paint some what.
You just can’t use Dullcote on all types of paint…if the dullcote was brushed on, it would have removed/mixed in with the painted finished and made a mess.
The finish on that shell reminds me of what the original Floquil paint did to the plastic on some brush paint jobs, called crazing.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
I get acceptable results from DullCote using a rattle can (in my vented spray booth this time of year or outdoors in warm weather). As with others, I find what looks like a heavy liquid coating seems to end up better than trying to feather the spray with a light touch. The “old” formula for DullCote was even worse in that regard.
Having said that, the real key in my experience is shaking the can for a long time. Never less than a minute and ideally two full minutes. Some guys who use rattle can paints or finishes give the can the same dozen or so shakes that the shave cream can gets of a morning, and then complain about results That is just not enough.
Dave Nelson
I’d had good results with the can. Mine are stored in the basement, so this time of year, I warm the can a little with hot water.
Over did the warming thing once and the bottom of the can popped out, concave to convex, didn’t come off, but it scared the heck out of me [:O] Obviously that’s why the bottom is shaped that way.
It did seem like a heavy coat, but it was even, and dried nice and even.
Mike.
Put me in the:
- Keep spray can warm
- Shake the can well
(Aside - while I already knew these two point from experience, “The Terrain Tutor” Mel on his channel did a demo of the various finishes resulting from cold, barely shaken spray paint to warm, well shaken spray paint - as could be expected, the warm shaken paint was smoother with less blotchy coverage. - Tamiya paint gets Tamiya clear coats (flat or clear) - looks good if done right, but a bit pricey; Model Master and Testors (and other such paint) gets Model Master clear coats (unless something with normally rough texture like junk piles or sign-posts or brick-work or…well, human figures - those get Testors Dull-coat).
I’ve come down firmly in the “Everything gets a coat of primer” by the way, and use the now manadatory Rustoleum Painter’s Touch 2x - so I have had no funky reactions between this undercoat and whatever cover coat I apply (I always wait at least 1 day, and usually more, before applying dissimilar coats).
So, TL;DR
- Warm paint
- Well Mixed paint
- Make sure dissimilar paints coats are compatible with each other