Im new so bear with me. Im wanting to start HO layout. Instead of buying a set I’m buying individual stuff. I have some questions.
The track Im told to get is the nickel silver flex. This goes on cork bed right? And how do you fasten it to bed? Also, is the track all straight pieces and it just turns and twists for the curves or do you buy curves? What brand?
Im wanting diesel around 1955-1960. Are there any websites that tells you what to get in this era? Like, accessories, engines, locos, bridges; everything. I dont know enough to know what is that era. I dont know what trains are from that particular year. I cant find anything to say.
I should go ahead and buy DCC even starting out just so I have it for later correct?
Last one. If Im gonna start on 4 X 8 plywood, do I put down styrofoam on the plywood first? If so, how? Glue? I dont know. The terrain and hills and ground scenery seems like it would be easier. Someone please tell me the correct way.
Sorry for the babble. Are there any good websites that explain basics for idiots? Ive read and read and read but Im overwhelmed. Thanks
Scott
Check out the “Layouts and Layout Building” forum. There are several threads there right now on tracklaying. You might want to check out some of the Kalmbach publications on construction techniques. They’ve got one on Benchwork (the platform your railroad sits on) and other covering all aspects of the hobby. There’s a very general one, which includes a DVD, on starting up in the hobby.
Model railroading is full of individuals. Every layout is different. There are lots of different techniques for doing the same things, and people do what suits them. A lot of it depends on what you’re comfortable with.
My one recommendation? Start with DCC right away. It’s great. It’s much more fun to “run the trains” rather than “running the tracks.” It also greatly simplifies your wiring, since you don’t need all those complicated blocks and toggle switches.
Find a Local Hobby Shop (LHS) that has trains in your area. Also, look for train shows, which are a combination of layout displays and flea markets. These are both great places to look and learn.
But your first assignment is to read and plan. After a while though, stop planning and start building. For a while, it may seem overwhelming, but once that first train starts to move on your track, it will all be worth it.
Welcome. Consider why you want 4x8. There are good reasons, but you can do more with other plans. If you like computers go with DCC. I did not because I had a lot of stuff that would not convert well. If you are starting from scratch and can deal with computers DCC seems to be the way. Latex caulk will glue everything, foam, roadbed, track. There are details, but it will do it all.
READ first. You don’t have to know everything, but there are many different ways, and different people have strong preferences. What are yours? Do you know yet?
sgh22 [#welcome] to the forum and the hobby. MisterBeasley (as always) has given you some very good info. You may find that you will will find conflicting opinions here and at the shows and at the Hobby Shops on what to do. There are many ways to create a great layout. The only person you have to please is you! I second the recomendation to start right off with DCC. Most people will want to use it sooner or later and you might just as well use the most modern technology out there from the start. You will love it and it is actually much easier to wire and run than DC. As has been said, READ, READ, and READ some more, but don’t delay making a layout. Remember, there are no dumb questions, and the folks here will be glad to help you. Have fun!
DCC is for sure the way to go. It is much simpler to wire than normal DC control. Plus it givers you much more operational capability. I suggest you check out the new thread started by JFugate about choosing a DCC system. I agree with the latex caulk idea. I use it on my layout and it works great. As for 50’s-60’s diesels you are looking at F and E units ( F for frieght, E for passenger) and early GP units such as GP7 or GP9. If you go DCC and dont feel comfortable installing decoders, there your hobby shop might install them, or there are many online installers. Tony’s is good, but the cheapest BY FAR that I know of is Discount DCC http://www.freewebs.com/discountdcc/index.htm
Going DCC from the beginning seems to make the most sense to me. As you say, I will probably want to eventually so I might as well start. There are just so many things I dont know. For instance, my son likes the BN trains. I have researched and researched on what trains were out at what years and cant find anything. I know the trains that I like but I want my set up to be a good one. I want it close even though it is my first. I dont completely understand the track thing yet. Am I correct on the flex track? Does it move and twist easily to adjust curves and such? Is that what you all recommend? What about the foam. Should I put a sheet on first before I start adding track let alone hills or grass or houses or buildings ,etc? Is that what people do?
Im still reading. I thought this would be so much easier. I have read for a month now. Im overloaded. I guess I am a perfectionist and just want it all correct and nice. I also dont want to half*** it.
Yes, flex track will bend to whatever radius you need it and it is laid on cork usually. There are other types of roadbed but cork is most common. Laying a sheet of foam is sometimes a good idea, but you dont have to. If you do It will make carving out rivers and lakes much easier, but you cannot nail to foam so you will be forced to glue everything.
I dont think BN was around in the era you want to model, might want to reconsider your year. I am not the expert on railroad history though so somebody might prove me wrong[:D]
Let me try to put it in some sort of order. First you would build your benchwork, and put your sheet of plywood or foam on top. You can use just the plywood, just the foam or both. I use sheetrock screws to assemble my benchwork and attach the plywood to the top. Secure the foam using foam-safe adhesive. If using just the foam, use at least 3/4" thick sheet supported at least every 16" or less apart. Once done with that, most folks use cork, which will need to be secured using some sort of foam safe adhesive or small track nails if on plywood. You can use just the flex track, which. as the name implies, will flex and bend to almost any radius you need. You’ll need either a track saw or rail cutter because when the flex track is curved, one rail will be longer than the other at the end. You’ll also need a way of cutting the track to length. Brand is not important as long as it’s good quality nickle silver track, but make sure it’s all the same “code” which refers to the height of the rail in thousandths of and inch. Thus code 100 is .100" high, code 83 is .083" high, etc. Use either code 100 or 83, the former being a little cheaper, tthe latter being more realistic. Most serious modelers use the code 83 (as do I). Lay the track using nails or glue if using plywood, or glue if using foam. Use push pins to hold the track in place while the glue dries. You can go DCC straight from the start if you like, that’s more of a personal choice than anything, but I’m sure you’ll have plenty of DCC advocates who’d say that’s the right thing to do.
As far as trains and such from 1955-'60, that merits an answer of its own. In this time frame, steam engines were fast being replaced by diesels. Many major railroads had retired steam for good, and many others were close behind. Only shortlines still had any steam power to speak of, and by 1960 very few steamers were left in regular service. According to the book “Diesel Locomotives: The First 50 Years” (published by Kalmbach), diesel engines of the
Brad
Thanks a lot for the info. That is what I needed to read. I need to ask you about 100 questions and answers like that and maybe I’d feel better.
So you can glue the track to the foam? Would you recommend the built up track to someone that has never done a layout or should I just tackle it head on?
Also, you sound like you know a lot about train history. See, this is where I get lost completely. You talk of EMD’s and SP 7 and 9 and switchers and all kinds of stuff and I have no idea. But my question then would be according to what you said, the Burlington diesels were not around until 1960?
I think you should just go with flex track. Its not really that hard to lay, you just need to make measurements first. The built up track doesnt run very well and is much more expensive than flex.