With today’s MU consisting with DCC, most loco’s new loco’s are only available as powered units. From time to time I see out of production Athearn Blue Box locos that I think would look great on my layout, but they’re unpowered ‘dummy’ models.
Am I the only one that still thinks it’s practical to run a dummy MU’d in consist with a powered DCC loco because it’s cheaper and effectively no different that pulling an extra freight car? Or am I just a big dummy? [:D]
Just a big dummy. [:D]
Man, don’t be cheap… there is nothing like hearing the harmoics when two or more locos in a consist power up. [:0]
At least my Katos do that.
You can run anyway you want to… its your layout.
Peter
Yeah I know, I just thought it was a funny way to phrase the title. LOL
I keep looking for SW1000’s, 1200’s and 1500’s, and seems the only ones I can find in the roadnames I’m looking for are Athearn BB’s, and almost all of those are dummy’s. Which I guess is fine, because I plan on most of my powered loco’s being good quality Atlas and P2K stuff, which could get expensive after a while, pairing up multiple powered locos when it’s really not needed to pull a long train.
I turned a couple of old BB engines into dummies because they just wouldn’t run anymore. One is an F7, and it runs in an A-B-A consist (the B is also a dummy) in passenger service. The other one is a GP9, with runs with one or 2 other geeps hauling freight.
My layout is small and flat, and doesn’t need a lot of pulling power. Still, it’s neat to run consists in DCC, with or without dummies in the mix. Dummies, of course, don’t use any power, so they don’t load down the limited resources of your DCC system. If you’re running a lot of trains on a small power budget, this might be important. (Of course, it’s also a sign that you need a power booster, but that’s another topic.)
My subway train is one powered unit and 3 dummies, if you want to look at it that way. One of those dummies is the video camera car, so its body is crammed with electronics even though there’s no motor. One of these days, I might put another camera in the nose of that dummy F7, and run the consist backwards.
There is a guy at the club I go to that uses dummy units for sound.
I’m a dummy!
I have a private name industrial/mining switching layout. I have lots of dummies. I use them as “scenery,” parked on industrial sidings, repair line, scavenge line, etc. I also like the look of first generation switchers lashed together, so I use them for that, too. I use only top quality, DCC sound engines to operate the layout … so dummies help me to fill out my roster inexpensively.
As a matter of fact, recently I got 8 BB Sw1500 dummies from a guy on ebay. Brand new, in KCS white paint. Waiting for a chance to repaint them.
Greg
i only use dummies for my amtrak and i have one any other reason i wouldnt i like haven everything powered 
I have several dummy locos. Most of them have sound chips and speakers in them. I can MU them to the powered loco of choice and have sound! I also have a few that are just dummy dummies. A couple of F7s and an E7. My BRVRR is flat and small so I don’t need the pulling power of multiple locos, but I have locos enough to make them up when desired. An A-B-B-A-A set, four powered and two with sound, including a dummy. Powerful and impressive, but unnecessary on my layout. Fun Though!
No, there are many reasons dummy locomotives are for smart people.
Check out this thread:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=35903
You will find that some people think the grinding gears of many powered units actually sound good.[%-)]!
If you’re running old Athearns, dummy units are a good idea, because 3 of those old BB diesels will draw about 2 amps at normal freight speeds.[:O] With dummies, you can run a train that looks like it has 3 engines running together without the extra current draw.[:D]
And then there’s the Hobbytown multi-drives, which are driven by a single motor in one of the engines so you can have 2 or 3 powered engines without much more current draw.[:D]
I don’t usually use dummies, but I do like running my A-B-A set of PAs once in a while.[:D]
I built a test helix (1 1/2% grade on 42" curves) just so I could test power consists w/ my favorite 40-50 car trains. I find that 3 powered BB F-7s w/ Sagami or NWSL motors and the big Athearn wieght will do the job handily. (now if I could only figure a fix for my anemic steam engines). Problem is, most transition era western rods ran in 4 unit sets, hence, the need for a dummy.
I have stripped a number of my older Athearns of their motors making them into dummies. The parts go into the bin for repairs. You can use the Athearn gears to replace cracked Proto 2000 gears. Old Athearns don’t go away, they become parts!
I’ve picked up several old locomotives at shows which look good (usually with a bit of work) but run terrible- I’ve stripped the motors and gears out to make them dummies and the spare parts are, well, spare parts.
By the way to all those who used “dummy’s” in their posts:
Dummy’s is the possesive form of the word (as in the dummy’s wheels, etc.), while you guys have used it as the plural.
The proper form you want is “dummies”, being the plural form.
If you don’t want to make yourself look like a “dummy”, try not to make little mistakes like that.
Yes, teacher!
Sorry. Couldn’t resist that.
I agree with the need for certain dummy units.
I grew up in the age of ABBA sets of F’s. No matter how good they may sound, I don’t need 4 powered units on a 20 car train. During an operating session, where I may have 10 engineers running 10 or more locos at the same time, I don’t need the extra amperage drain that two unnecessary B-units are pulling. Yes, I could add another booster or two to my Digitrax system, but that’s extra bucks I would rather not spend.
So, in the case of F series B units, I would like to see some dummies.
Dale Latham
I have 3 Athearn Dummies but they just sit around doing nothing. [:D]
I have an old Bachmann C40-8 that I bought used. It didn’t run worth a flip, so I took out the gears and I consist it with a Proto 2000 SD60. I also have an Athearn GP38 dummy that I consist with an Atlas GP40 for switcher service. The total cost of the two dummies; approximately $25. The total cost of an Atlas C40-8 and a Proto 2000 GP38, both powered, approximately $180, discounted at my LHS. It seems like a no-brainer to me.