Has anyone applied Durham’s in its original powder form and then wetted it down; if so how did it work out?
I have made many of the roads on my layout from Durhams. It sets slower than plaster, but sets up harder. I usually wet sand it to make it smooth. The only problem I have is that it tends to hold air bubbles more than plaster.
I use it for roads, too, but I mix it first. From the way it mixes, I don’t think it would work very well if you tried to apply water after it was in place. The mix tends to form pockets of dry powder, which must be stirred a lot to break up. I might work better if you use a wetting agent like dish soap or alcohol as part of mix, but I don’t know.
I use a wet foam brush to smooth out the roads after I’ve poured the putty. I keep a fresh cup of water handy, and I work the road smooth until it hardens. This is a bit tedious, but it hardens quickly.
I add vinegar to the mix, which slows the setting and gives me more time to get the road down properly. This is more important if you’re doing a big pour all at once. Once, I couldn’t find the plain white vinegar, so I used wine vinegar. My layout room smelled like a salad for a week.
That actually might be a decent way to model parched earth. But my hunch is that this would form a thin crust on the top and would be easily cracked. I think it would be difficult to get a smooth even top surface unless you mix it thoroughly and then spread it.
Dave Nelson
Mr B…
Since you are one of the main proponents for using Durhams I’d like to ask this question. How thin of a mixture can you make and would it seek it’s own level??
OP parden me for borrowing your thread.
Happy Railroading
Bob
I’ve tried it a lot of different ways. I think it’s better the thinner you make it, but there’s going to be a point where it’s too watery. It will not totally “seek its own level.” It’s going to be a bit viscous, but once again, using one of those foam brushes to push it around can get it pretty flat. The vinegar does give you more working time, but you only have 10 or 15 minutes to get it poured into place at best, and less than that if you mix it thicker.
Mr B
I tried it a while back and evidently made it too thick but was ablle to salvage the road. It has a good texture for a road and takes color well. The left over putty when hardened broke up into nice looking rocks.
On your advice I’ll try it again making it more soupy and add some vinegar.
Thanks for your reply.
Happy Railroading
Bob
I usually make a form out of thin scrap wood, wet the surface with a spray bottle, and pour a soupy mixture of Durhams into the form. I usually have to push it into the corners with a putty knife (keeping an eye out for those dry pockets MrB mentioned). I draw a piece of wood across the top of the forms to initally smooth the pour and remove excess putty. After it dries, I wet sand to smooth it.
Some paints will not adhere well to the surface; I usually start with primer like Rustoleum gray primer in a spray can. then apply any color that is needed.