I am using some old Tyco secitonal track, which appears to be .100 inches high (code 100?), and a Kadee between the rails uncoupler. The uncoupler info says the top surface of the magnet should be 1/64 in above the top surface of the rail, which it seems to just about be - I measure just a few thousandths more than this of thickness of the magnet.
Now the problem: I have just been given a couple small switcher engines. One is a Kato, and the other two are Life-Like’s. Each has a cover over the gearbox which hangs low-enough between the wheels to interfere with the magnet sticking up between the rails and stop the loco.
I guess I need to lower the magnet a little. Any suggestions?
Lower the magnet. You can cut out the ties and lower the magnet, or buy the magnets (sold by Kadee and Bachmann) that go under the track. You cut a hole in the cork roadbed (or whatever) and drop the magnet in.
The other option is to take a file to the truck baseplate - this works on models where there’s only another couple of millimetres needed to clear the magnet.
You need to go to Kadee’s web site and do some research, make sure you have the gauge to, it cost about $5 and it is a must to get everything adjusted. I just got sone awhile back converting everything to Kadee. I had Mchenry,Proto, EZ mate, and some other types. I put a post up about having trouble with the couplers and everyone was a big help to me on advice in this forum.
When you go to the Kadee web site, they have a complete listing of all the different fitments for all their couplers with drawings and instructions, so check it out, its worth it.
I agree with ICRR1964. You definitely need a Kadee gauge. It helps you standardize your magnet height, coupler height, and trip-pin height. other than that, go with the under tracks. They look prettier anyway.
I had exactly the same problem with a P2K switcher when I first started about a year ago. I think it was one of the first posts I made here. I was advised to lower the magnet, did it, and it worked like magic. I install the magnets just a hair below the rail height and have had no problems getting them to work fine, and the locos don’t even notice them. I do have the Kadee jig for installing now.
I’m working on a trial installation now. I will set the magnet at or just below the rail height. I would have guessed the gluing jig sets it 1/64 above the rail.
Contrary to the Kadee instruction - I never would mount anything that extends ‘above’ the rails. The gearbox on some engines(P2K SW1200 for one) are very low and will catch on the magnet. I have seen engines ‘drag’ across grade crossing planks that have swelled from humidity…
I have the same problem! Same uncoupler. My LL SW hangs up but the KATO does not? It passes the KADEE coupler guage as far as height. Never really looked at it close enough to figure out a solution. I switched switcher locations and all is fine.
Terry
Day 2, and I am still fully satisfied with the uncoupler set just below the rail height. I installed it by sanding down the tie height on a section of code 100 flex track, which happens to be brass, i.e. non-magnetic. I think the kadee couplers work even BETTER on the new installation than set directly on the ties of a tyco nickel-silver (i.e. magnetic) track section at a height of 1/64 above the rails.
I now have 5 engines, and 3 had interference issues with the uncoupler mounted higher than the rails.
My P2K S1 has the same problem. I think all my other engines (P2K GP9, old Athearn F7, P1K RSC-2) clear just fine. Good to know the couplers still work if I kick the plates down a notch. Thanks.