I need to bond some wood strips (simulating cribbing) to plastic beams. Normally I use CA for this, but am wondering if epoxy would form a more permanent attachment. My need is for an epoxy that can be mixed (or not mixed if such is available) in minute quantities and have a reasonable working time. And hopefully not smell to high heaven.
I believe I read in this forum about one particular brand that seemed to work well, but of course have forgotten where. Can someone help me out with this?
There are syringes of two-part epoxies that are sold as a connected two-pack in a plastic frame at most hardware stores. They are meant to be squeezed out in minute amounts, mixed thoroughly with a toothpick, and then spread where it is needed. That should work for you. I forget the maker…Lepage’s maybe? Why not plain ol’ contact cement? It should do the trick, providing you let it cure for a couple of days.
Your call…But I used a few of those different brands two-part Epoxy and to be honest, I don’t care for any of them. Not the type of bond I was hoping for. For things that I don’t have to hold, but want a solid bond. I use Loctite All purpose GO2 Glue crystal clear sets in 30 min,cures 24hrs, for most surfaces. Depending on whether I need to clamp it or not, I will use Zap-A-Gap Medium CA+, hold for 10 to 15 seconds, use that a lot for stripwood to plastic, balsa also, with great results. If I have a large area, plastic, wood, cardboard, to each other or to Homasote which is my base over 1/2 ply, I use DAP Weldwood original contact cement, not the water base one, fantastic holding power, when applied properly. If you ever want something to form a new piece or repair a large part. The go to would be Epoxy Resin, but you just can’t mix that in little batches, plus it throws off a lot of heat when curing.
I use JB Weld two part epoxy. White and black mixed makes gray. It can be mixed in any quantity you need, large or small and has a descent working time as long as you don’t get the fast setting stuff.
Mixed properly, epoxy will hold anything. The most common mistake people make is not getting the proportions as close to 50/50 as humanly possible.i use Z-Poxy 5 minute and 30 minute epoxies. They come in squeeze bottles which make it very easy to get just the right amount. I mix and apply with a craft pick (basically a very large toothpick). Z-Poxy dries clear and has a mild chemical odor which is not too strong.
That said, some high viscosity CA or even tacky glue would work, too.
I stopped using the two part syringe some years ago. Not easy for dispensing equal amounts. The little tubes work for me for small amounts. Been using two part epoxies since the middle 1960’s.
While epoxy has its place, using it to bond plastic to anything without an attendant mechanical connection will not be permanent - after all, you can mix epoxy (any type, even JB weld) on plastic and the hardened residue can be easily peeled from the mixing surface.
I think that a better choice would be contact cement. I prefer the gelled stuff from LePages or Weldbond, but whatever you use, follow the instructions on the container. [swg]
I like to use ‘90 Second’ epoxy. I find it at Hobby Lobby for about 99 cents for a pkg - with two small tubes you mix 50/50. It will glue just about anything together and sets fast. I normally use it for glueing grab iron and stirrup steps to freight car projects. This is so much bedtte than CA or Super Glue 0 - I it has ‘shear’ strength that most CA glues do not have.
I don’t use epoxy all that often because much of my work is done in styrene, where a solvent cement is generally the best bonding agent.
I don’t use a great deal of ca, either, unless I can also provide a mechanical connection - probably the most-used application for me would be when installing metal parts on either metal or plastic - usually grab irons and sill steps, and underbody detail, where there’s always a mechanical connection. Ca is fast and easy to use for this purpose.I make most joints between dissimilar materials with contact cement, but those generally involve large areas of contact - styrene roads to plywood layout areas, or printed paper structures to styrene stiffeners.
My suggestion of contact cement was inspired by a situation about 10 years ago when I was scrapping some '50s-era freight cars (models built in the '50s). They were equipped with original Kadee K-series couplers in metal draught gear boxes, and many were cemented to the underbodies with Pliobond. Despite their age, the bond was still extremely strong, whether metal-to-metal or metal-to-wood. The wood where the glue was applied usually came apart with the glued-on portion still affixed to the metal and had to be removed with lacquer thinner.
While writing this, I’ve been trying to think of places in my modelling where epoxy was used, and the only thing I can come up with is when adding some details to locomotives. While the picture doesn’t illustrate it all that well, the air tanks (lead-filled brass tubing) are fitted with mounting pins (.040" brass wire) on their unseen sides. These are ca’d into the boiler casting (plastic or metal locos), then epoxy is applied to the area where the tanks and boiler are either in contact or close proximity. The main purpose of the epoxy is to maintain the tanks
I use 90 second epoxy for mounting LEDs where I want the LED to shine through a lense or illuminate fibreoptic cable. The epoxy will also form lenses nicely where needed.
Gel CA will also work but the longer working time for the epoxy allows the LED to be positioned exactly behind the lense or cable. This is especially crucial with fibreoptic cable. I light the LED when mounting it so I can see exactly where the light is shining.
When in the business; I sold Bob Smith epoxy exclusively; still use it today. It comes in various setting times from 5 minutes to 30 minutes. You can find it at any hobby shop that stocks RC airplanes.
When dining in at a fast food restaurant, I “liberate” several of the plastic or paper containers used to put catsup in to use as a mixing platform for epoxy. Very easy to put similar sized globs of resin and hardener, then mix with either a micro brush, popsicle stick, or toothpick.
I use JB weld. I love it. Can mix a small amount or large amount and just as long it can get a bite on the work peice it will hold! The example of using styrene to mix and then it peels off, yes it will if the peice is prefectly smooth. Rough it up with a peice of sandpaper and then try to get it off! Just my 2 cents.
True, Sam, all adhesives work better as the surface area to which they are bonded increases. Roughing up a surface with sand-paper or a rasp will do exactly that, and your bond is likely to improve two-fold and more.
By the time the epoxy is mixed and roughing the surface and hopefully you can put it on the pieces that you want before it sets and you’ll have to mix some more. I’ll be done. Using the Medium Ca and getting ready to paint it.
Unfortunately, Maxman didn’t ask for a snide comment about CA vs. epoxy, or an explanation of your clearly legendary adhesive skills. He asked for a recommendation for epoxy, since he was having trouble with CA.
As someone else pointed out, the best way to bond styrene is with a solvent based cement, but this won’t bond other materials TO styrene. For myself, whenever I am gluing another material to styrene, I always rough the surface with a fine grit sandpaper or sanding stick.
As you said. roughing up the surfaces will increase the adhesion of the epoxy greatly. I use CA for small projects like attaching horns, air/mu lines and other small items. For bigger projects I use the JB Weld epoxy.
One nice thing about an epoxy like JB Weld is that you can apply it in minutes quantities with the point of a tooth pick or needle or straight pin because it holds together quite well. Try that with CA and you run the risk of marring the finish if the adhesive runs or spreads which it is prone to do.