Hi first time poster. We’ve set up our Xmas Lionel layout. We’re have some trouble with the Fastrack uncoupler. Instead of uncoupling cars, upon pushing the button, it’s killing power to the whole track. The effect is the same as levering the CW 80 down to zero, then back up. The train stops (NYCentral) then upon another push, goes into reverse. There isn’t much wiring here…could the piece be defective? Possibly a problem with the magnet?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Bizarre. Does the light flash on the CW 80 when you push the decoupler button?
Yes, that does happen. I’ll need go back and check all my connections and make sure they are snug.
I’ve noticed that the Fasttrack uncouplers like 14 to 18 volts to operate well.
I’m guessing that you are running the NYC ready to run set, maybe with an expansion pack. The CW80 should work just fine.
You might try connecting the uncoupler track to the auxillary terminals on the back of the CW80. The instruction sheet for the uncoupling track should have instructions on how to power it from a separate power supply (the auxillary terminal), and the CW80 instructions describe how to set the voltage on the auxillary terminal.
Thanks. Strangely enough, the problem was that the little tiny piece of metal that’s included in between the uncoupler dropped out when I was moving the track around. I need to get in touch with Lionel to see if it’s a replacement part.
Hi,
Just, yesterday I had a problem with my Lionel Operating FasTrack #6-12054 in that when certain units have an operating track voltage greater than what this FasTrack is rated for the FasTrack’s center coil burns out.
Fantastic, because it’s cheaply made, is past the warranty limit and my local hobby shop don’t have replacement parts to repair it.
So, what’s the solution? Simple! Keep the damaged unit as an expensive straight section of track and go spend another $30+dollars for a new one and watch how it’s used to prevent damage!
It makes perfect sense!
And thanks to: ‘Planned Obsolescence!’
At least the older Lionel items, for the most part, were made to last longer and were repairable.
Happy, Healthy New Year,
Ralph
Hi,
The operating track voltage for this beloved Op. FasTrack is between 10 and 12 volts, as per Lionel’s booklet which is packed with this item, while most of the operating units have greater op. voltages.
Oh, Yeah!
Watch, the warranty time limit, because I’m now the proud owner of an expensive straight section of track!
Happy, Healthy New Year,
Ralph
Ralph, et al: Be careful when using the operating tracks that the button for uncoupling and unloading does not get stuck in the operate position. Several folks on the Fastrack board have mentioned having this happen. It will fry the unit.
Dennis
Hi, Dennis,
Thank you for your advice, evidently I’m not the only owner of an expensive section of straight track.
It’s controller housing is all plastic, which is good for safety, but it’s return springs, like the elctro-magnetic coil, are not Lionel quality of the past.
Even though the item sells around $30+ dollars, which is inexpensive now-a-days, the item should still endure little and big baby hands so that the Lionel name means fun and quaity, as well, as quality fun.
Both old and new operating units require more voltage to operate, than what the FasTrack, it’s self, is rated for.
What electronic genius thought up this scheme?
I’m still a Lionel fan.
Happy Holidays and Happy, Healthy New Year,
Ralph
Thanks for the heads up on the uncoupling track or I may have some expensive straight tracks as well. I just started using Lionel Fastrac and I might be selling it quickly.
Can somebody explain the logic behind having a 10 to 12 volt uncoupling track when most transformers can put out 16 to 21 volts? Now you need a volt meter to use with the uncoupling track to make sure you don’t go over voltage!
Lee F.
Lee, don’t sell off the Fastrack, it really is good stuff, but like most things, has some issues. The way around the voltage deal is to use a buss bar that you keep at 12 volts and feed the different un coupling, un loading tracks as well as other accessories. This will also allow you to park a train over the activation track and do whatever function that piece of rolling stock does without having to sit with the rest of the train in neutral. With regard to the issue of stuck buttons and having the control track stuck in the operate position, just make sure that the magnet has stopped working before moving the consist.
Dennis
Normally I dislike posts that reply to a list of problems with “I’ve never had any problem with mine,” but in this case I’ll say that I’ve never had any problem with mine," – with two exceptions.
You should only need to press the switch to the uncoupler track for a second or less. The uncoupler should open instantly. There is no need to hold the button down longer than that at any voltage. I think the manual says no more than ten seconds. I see no need for more than one – the coupler either opens or it doesn’t. That said, the button on my FasTrack uncoupler track would sometimes stick in the “on” position. This is a real problem. I replaced it with an old reliable Lionel #90 switch and that seemed to fix it.
The second issue was that the central magnet portion of the FasTrack uncoupler track seemed to stand “proud” of the top of the center rail. With some of my cars which used the “thumbtack” design, the height of the magnet would physically interfere with the downward travel of the thumbtack, thereby stoppng the uncoupling action in mid-travel. When this happens, there is a tendency to hold the button down too long, hoping it will work. This does no good, and could overheat the coil to the point of destruction and/or short circuit. In the end, I ground it down a little.* (Oddly enough, the similar 6-12054 Operating Track does not seem to have this problem as its magnet is flush with the top of the center rail. At least on mine.)
*Grinding it down could leave it too low to activate the “flat armatures” on some trucks at reasonable voltages; but I’ve found that the combination of a ground-down magnetic structure plus sufficient voltage APPLIED BRIEFLY will uncouple anything that I own.
It’s possible to rewire the uncoupler track magnet and switch to run off of auxilliary power so that you can set it to a voltage that works well for you. I takes a littl
[quote user=“bfskinner”]
Normally I dislike posts that reply to a list of problems with “I’ve never had any problem with mine,” but in this case I’ll say that I’ve never had any problem with mine," – with two exceptions.
You should only need to press the switch to the uncoupler track for a second or less. The uncoupler should open instantly. There is no need to hold the button down longer than that at any voltage. I think the manual says no more than ten seconds. I see no need for more than one – the coupler either opens or it doesn’t. That said, the button on my FasTrack uncoupler track would sometimes stick in the “on” position. This is a real problem. I replaced it with an old reliable Lionel #90 switch and that seemed to fix it.
The second issue was that the central magnet portion of the FasTrack uncoupler track seemed to stand “proud” of the top of the center rail. With some of my cars which used the “thumbtack” design, the height of the magnet would physically interfere with the downward travel of the thumbtack, thereby stoppng the uncoupling action in mid-travel. When this happens, there is a tendency to hold the button down too long, hoping it will work. This does no good, and could overheat the coil to the point of destruction and/or short circuit. In the end, I ground it down a little.* (Oddly enough, the similar 6-12054 Operating Track does not seem to have this problem as its magnet is flush with the top of the center rail. At least on mine.)
*Grinding it down could leave it too low to activate the “flat armatures” on some trucks at reasonable voltages; but I’ve found that the combination of a ground-down magnetic structure plus sufficient voltage APPLIED BRIEFLY will uncouple anything that I own.
It’s possible to rewire the uncoupler track magnet and switch to run off of auxilliary power so that you can set it to a voltage that works well for you. I takes a little doing.
&
I’ve decided to use a separate power source for an entirely different good reason. I’m using TMCC/Legacy and run 18 volts continuously. However, when I’m moving the train slowly over an uncoupler and hit the uncouple button for a second or two, the train stops. The amps sucked up by the uncoupler stopped the slow moving train over the uncoupler - and I have a big transformer. Apparently TMCC is “amp/voltage sensitive” at really low speeds.
A separate power supply to the uncoupler will enable a consistent slow crawl of the train during uncoupling maneuvers.
ANYbody using TMCC or operating their trains at or above 12 volts should be running their Operating Track/Uncoupling Track sections from auxilary power. This is not just for FasTrack, but all Lionel track and switches too.
This is all clearly spelled out in the TMCC Users Guide.
Jon [8D]
Dennis,
Thank you for the advice on the Fastrac uncoupling section. However for my small layout with Fastrac using a buss bar is way over cost for me as I have a single track modified shape of an oval, or about a 10 ft. oval. It would be more productive for me to use another low power transformer set at the proper voltage range than to do a buss bar.
Any way I need to buy a larger transformer, at least I think so, as my passenger consist slows down when I put on a third passenger car. Currently I am using a 40 watt transformer, possible post war or MPC era transformer. My passenger car consist is a K-Line interurban set with a heavyweight passenger car in the center, what happens is I lose speed and the cars don’t light up as well with the third car added on.
Lee F.