I had my first go at modeling a river tonight and tried a different material than what I’ve read about other modelers using. Was wondering if anyone else tried this:
My river bed has carved foam banks so I wanted to keep away from products that either had to be melted at a high temperature or generated a lot of heat when they cure. Also have the basement closed up for the winter with no screens to keep varmints out so I had to avoid anything that was going to create a lot of fumes.
So basically any kind of melted pellets, resin, epoxy or varnish was out. Also any kind of clear draft-stop caulking that stinks to high heaven.
At a major craft store I explained my predicament to one of the clerks and she showed me something that’s used to simulate water in artificial flower arrangements. It’s called Wonder Water. The thing that attracted me was you only need to stick the bottle of it in a pot of hot (130 degrees F) water and wait a few minutes for it to liquify.
I sealed up any sources of leaks (front of layout, backdrop) heated the stuff up and poured. It turned out very well except that you have to watch as it sets fairly quickly. Also the bane of epoxy type water: bubbles. I first of all tried a heat gun but it started making waves like the latest tropical storm was bearing down. So I ran, got a pin, and was able to prick most of the bubbles. Maybe a heat lamp would work well, can’t remember where I put mine.
Overall results: pretty good considering it was my first try. I had found the various, more exotic methods of modeling water to be an obstacle to getting my river done. This was a much simpler solution and the results seem satisfactory (so far.) Maybe this might help someone else in a similar situation.
Yep, that’s it. Not sure how reusable it would be for our application. For flower arrangement, they mean you can put the vase in a tub of hot water until the stuff melts, then pour it out. Might still be easy to pry up, don’t want to try.
It came out very clear in my application, approx 1/4" to 1/2" thick. I had painted the river bed and rocks burnt umber. The overall effect reminds me of many of the shallow rocky rivers that wind through southern Ontario, which I’m modeling. Also most of the air bubbles seem to have dissipated. One potential drawback I found: It doesn’t harden as much as other material I suppose. As of this morning, it still is very rubbery to the touch and rather soft. I don’t thing it will move when the temporary dams are removed, but it may be prone to damage if it gets accidentally poked or something fell on it. But then again, we have to be careful around other scenery items.
I guess it is like a very thick gel as it requires only 130 degrees F to melt it. Not something to use in an attic layout without climate control. My basement seldom goes above 70 even in the summer so it should suit my purposes.
One of these days, I’m going to set up a few “experimental ponds” on a scrap piece of foam, and try different techniques for water modelling. I’ve got some Envirotex, which will be my basic “water,” but I like the idea of adding some color. I’d like to try out deep vs. shallow ponds, and also ripple effects.
I’m still about a month away from working on the creek on the layout but I’ve been thinking about what to use. I’ve used Envirotex on previous layouts with good results. I was reading about a new product called “Magic Water” that says it doesn’t yellow, no fumes and is safe for foam. I got a package of it for possible use.
Not sure I’m going to use it or not at this point as my understanding is that it doesn’t setup to a very hard surface, it remains somewhat flexible. I think this is probably good for a layout that moves a lot as it may prevent it from cracking, but I’m a little concerned about getting surface scratches and such on a softer surface, from working scenery in the area once the river is poured and the like. Jim
I recently had Garage floor epoxy coating from HD applied to my garage floor. This is a crystal clear epoxy that sets as hard as a rock. Not the base color kind, but the top sealant.
I am planning on buying another gallon to see how it might be useful to do rivers and ponds and maybe automobiles so they have clear windows. I had already bought one for this purpose but the installer wanted to put on a second coat so used it up.
So you’ll be able to park your car on the layout, then! Sorry, I’m feeling a bit silly today. That actually sounds like a good idea. Let us know how it works!
I have used “Magic Water” in my saw mill pond. As you have pointed out, it never becomes a brittle solid. The two liquids must be used in the right proportions, and stirred thoroughly, or it may take a month for the surface to become stiff, but pliable. My only objection, is that capillary action causes it to creep up on the sides of the logs in the pond, ( but perhaps I did not stir it as thoroughly as I should have. No heat required, and no odor. My LHS dealer says that he prefers it to the pellets that have to be heated. I have not tried it on waterfalls, or rapid river currents. Bob
My wife used that product with some artificial flowers in a clear glass vase. It looked extremely real. So real that when we went on vacation and hired someone to care for the cats, this kind person decided to freshen the water in the flowers! When we came back the added water had turned slightly green from the dye in the artificial flower stems …
Anyone looking to get into water modelling should look at Dave Frary’s new DVD specifically on water modelling. http://www.mrscenery.com/ I picked it up at the Craftsman Structure show last weekend and got to meet the man himself. It is an excellent DVD and covers several materials.
Hello. Thought Id jump in here to clarify some things about my product “Magic Water”. Firstly it is assumed that all epoxies have a noxious odor. Mine does not as the one user testified. It will cure to a hard rubbery state so as not to crack or delaminate {as envirotex is subject to} in about 24 hours if mixed thoroughly at 70 degrees or more. Unlike envirotex it can be poured at low temps without sucking up air and turning to a foamy state. It will simply take longer to set. No torches are needed to debubble it either. It is tintable or will remain perfectly clear. It has no yellowing like envirotex. The mix can be off as much as 10% and it will still set up fine. Capillary action will occur with any liquid but Magic Water has a very minimal effect as many have remarked. The product is a permanent surface, that will not crack, shrink, bubble, yellow, creates no heat, requires no heat, and lasts for years even after opening. Doesnt get any easier! Its featured in Dave Frarys new video and Paul Scoles new video. Theres also a good review in the Nov issue of Railroad Model Craftsman. If anyone wants to see it and get a personal presentation on it I will be at Trainfest this weekend in Milwaukee and would be pleased to meet you. Hope this helps. Dave Williams, Unreal Details
I purchased some Magic Water from Dave at a train-show in Collinsville Illinois some months ago and used if for the first time on a pond I was making. It worked exactly as described and was very easy to use. It is a great product.
Try this method and see if there is a huge difference with ease and cleanup… I experimented with “Polycrylic” wood sealer and it works wonders. It is water -cleanable, dries to a high gloss, can be mixed with acrylic or “craft paints” which do in fact match virtually every military, scenery and RR color.
Additionally, it will add a clear coat to an already paintied river with waterfalls, rapids, etc. and by itself in a sandy river bed simulates the clear water look. Pour in layers about 1/4" deep along the bed of whatever water course you have and let dry for about 2 to 4 hrs, keep pouring until you reach the desired depth look.
Adding acrylic caulking to your layout or in my case 1/35 scale military dio for ground work is great as well.
This is in no way meant to diminish the importance of ready made mixes but points only to an alternative source of scenery material that can be found in a hardware store and craft section of a craft/art supply store.
‘Polycrylic’, hmm? Interesting. I will have to look for it next time I’m in a building supply place.
The WonderWater does look very good, very clear but I’m a bit concerned about how soft it is. After all, it is a gel. It was certainly worth a try and due to it’s soft nature would probably not be too hard to remove if it ends up being a problem.
That Polycrylic might be a good alternative if it’s not too expensive, my expenditures lately have been restricted to scenery material.
Thanks for the tip,
Charles
PS: 1/35 scale military dioramas? I’ve got a few 1/72 tank models still to put together.
If you need a “quick fix” on water. Use the standard dark paint in the center and lighter to the edges. Then use rubber cement to glue down some plastic wrap over the area. You can even make ripples in it if you want![^]