Now that I’m moving from the “newbie 4x8” layout with sectional track, I’m going to go with flex track for my around the walls layout. However, I’ve never seen a demonstration of laying flex track or read a tutorial on how to do this properly so that the rails line up in curves and such. Also, I’m planning to solder my connections the next time around and would like a tutorial on how to solder track and electrical connections to it.
Does anyone know of a web-based tutorial on how to do this. Pictures are a must for me and a video would be perfect.
Well, I dont know of a video or tutorial. But I can tell you that it is very easy. There are only a few things to remember:
On a curve, the sliding rail goes on the inside.
Solder as many sections together as you need to do a curve before you lay said curve, that way you make 1 big piece of track. And since you soldered the sections together while straight, the rails will line up perfectly when you bend your big section around the curve.
coming off a turn, cut off the excess rail from the inside before trying to add another section. I know it sounds like common sense, but I have seen it tried, with bad results.
If you choose to attach the track with the atlas nails that go in the center of the ties, dont hammer them in too far. You will bend the ties and possibly pull the rails out of guage.
If you need to pull a nail out do not use one of the rails as a fulcrum to pry it out. Again you could get the rails out of guage.
There are probably a few more things that others will list, this is all that comes to my mind right now.
I like to solder my feeders at the rail joiner between two sections. This way I join the sections and connect feeders with one solder joint. Some people dont like to see the wires on the side of the rail so they solder to the bottom between ties. Its more work but it is a cleaner look. The feeders dont bother me personally.
The author says remove 1 to 3 ties from the flex track before joining them together. Why? What does this accomplish. The article doesn’t say. Also, the article uses rail joiners to put track together before soldering. Is this the preferred method or are there other ways of securing the connection without the need to see the rail joiners on the laid track?
You need to remove the 1-3 rails so you have room for rail joiners, both physical space and so you don’t melt the ties when/if you solder. The number depends if you use Atlas joiners (long) or Walthers (short), etc.
Yes you need to use rail joiners. The joiners keep the rails lined up perfectly, which of course is very important. Also you cannot get solder on the inside of the rails or wheel flanges will hit it. Remember that real rails use rail joiners too so don’t worry about it.
You can do without rail joiners while using flex track but you have to meet the following conditions:
the flex track must be a make that holds the curve once it’s been put in. Atlas has a lot more “spring” than the other brands; Micro Engineering flex has the least. Less “spring” is better in this situation because you need to bend the very ends of the track to the desired radius where joints occur on curves.
and as already said, the very end of the track must be at the desired radius where joints occur on curves. I intend to use a rail bender to achieve this on my handlaid track. Ribbonrail gauges are available in a wide variety of radii to hold flex track at the desired radius. I would use these through the joints while you are fastening the track down.
since there is no rail joiner to conduct electricity, you must either solder a jumper around the joint, or provide a feeder for each piece of rail.
the roadbed must hold the track in place and alignment since there is no rail joiner to hold the rail ends. Cork and foam roadbed (WS and other makes) have too much “give” to hold this alignment over the long term IMO (your mileage may vary). Pine or Homasote roadbed would be recommended, with spikes securing the ends of the rails in place.
Reading this makes it sound worse than it is in reality. I have never used rail joiners with my handlaid track, and I think it goes just as quickly. I don’t have to worry about notching the ties for the rail joiner thickness. I automatically take care to make sure the rails line up at the joints without a kink. All too often those who depend on
Good question. I don’t do this. I don’t cut any ties (until I get to the end and there are surplus). Instead I cut a grove for the rail joiner under the rail for the rail joiner. This way I only destroy only two of the fake plastic “spikes” for each joint. I also try to offset them so that each tie has a grip on at least one rail.
The rail joiner is the only way I connect the tracks. I do not solder except on curves.
My recommendation on these two points is the exact opposite. Soldering pieces before placing them onto the layout requires removing more ties than needed (see above). On curves it can also make flat spots that have to be corrected by spiking the rails into the extra ties put into the gap. The only place I trim is when the rails have to meet a turnout.
I never cut of excess rail from the inside. I slide it into the next section. This is how the rails joints naturally offset themselves.&nb
as you can see, everyone has their own way of doing this. However; in my experience; you need to cut just 1 tie off the end of each peice if you’re using a 30-35 watt soldering iron. Any higher, and you should remove 2 to 3 ties. And, when you’re soldering you DON’T need flux. I know a lot of people will disagree with me on that, but in my experience, I’ve found that it’s true since there’s flux in the solder. You can use it if you want, but I find it doesn’t really matter.
Also, a 30-35 watt soldering iron is enough.
Like I said, though, everyone has their own way of doing this and this is just my 2c]
I have only worked with Atlas code 83 N-scale flex track. I have always used rail joiners to make connections between all the rails on my layout. I have not used the method of soldering several sections of flex track together before placing them in position on a curve, but it sounds like it would make the laying of a smooth curve easier. The method I use is to add a section of flex track to the previous section in the curve while the last foot or so of the last section is still straight. I solder the next section to the straight portion of the flex track already in the curve. I then pull the new section into the curve configuration and track-nail it down. This gives a very smooth curve throughout its entire length. I have never had a problem with kinks in curves using this method. In soldering anything to the track, use only rosin-core solder that is specifically made for use on electrical and electronic wiring. This type solder is available at Radio Shack. Never use acid flux or acid-core solder, which is made for use on sheet metals, in any electrical applications or you will invite corrosion. I have always removed ties in the area of the rail joiners to prevent them from melting when soldering the rail joint. I set these ties aside until the track laying is complete. At that time I cut the spike heads off the ties and, with a sharp Xacto knife, cut a small depression out of the top of the ties to accomodate the bottom of the rail joiner. I then slide the ties into the open spaces under the rails where the ties were removed, adjust their spacing to match the adjoining ties and hold them in place a small drop of super glue. After the track has been painted/weathered and ballasted, you’ll never notice the the rail joiners or, for that matter, the power leads soldered to the outsides of the rails. I have clipped heat-sink clips from Radio Shack to the rails to help p
A pair of Vise-Grip pliers clamped to the rail makes a great heatsink…especially if you’re using a soldering gun like I do. Because the gun is more powerful than a pencil-style iron, the rail can heat up quickly. Another thing I do is use a little flux. That way, I don’t need as much heat, and things stay cool.
Another thing I have found is not to use insluated rail joiners on curves, they tend to pull apart. I usually do not do this but thought I could get away with it at one location, but it settled into a kink, i.e instant derailments at the insluated joint. So, I have just pulled up 3 feet of Atlas code 100 track, and am re-laying it with standard rail joiners. If you need insulated joints, keep them on the straight.
i dont know if anybody mentioned it, but to get rid of the gaps in between the joint,s file down the rough edge (where the track was) of the ties you pulled out, put a little bit of white glue on em, and slide em back under. Boom, now nobody knows where each sections starts and stops.
btw do this after you have set the track in place.
If you’re using track nails to secure your track to the roadbed, try to make the end tie on each section of flex track one that has a whole in it. You can do this by making your cuts at these locations, drill a small whole in the end tie, or slide a tie with a whole ont the end. This will keep your joints straighter and your track lines true.
If these tips have already been stated using similar words simply ignore me. I’ve been in the basement, in the dark, for far to long. I’m NOT AN ANIMAL!!!
I used to nail my track down but have swiched to using latex adheasive caulk as shown in the Model Railroader article. I also solder two pieces of flex track together, with rail joiners and add 18ga jumper wires at the work bench. It is a lot easier to do this at the work bench. I just use rail joiners between the 6ft sections of flex track. A locomotive is never more thatn 3ft from a set of jumper wires. I use Atlas code 83 flex track and turnouts. I use Digitrax DCC. Works great.
I’ve just rebuilt my layout downstairs, I purchaced a 5/8" router bit and cut a .10 deep cut for my track, and curves, I also glued track with clear silcon just so it won’t pull up. The track has 2 - 16’ straight sections of track groove helps it stay straight, made jig for router to cut large radius’s. previous track laid on cork roadbed warped over time. new layout will never bend. track is about 75’ in lenght or 2 scale miles, my g scale track is overhead, n runs along workbench and is inclosed with removable plexi glass so dust won’t bother tracks. Mike
