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How do you cut flexi trak and what tools do you need to do so?
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How do you keep it in it’s final position on the layout? - ie: glue, screwed, nailed etc etc.
Thanking you all in advance. [swg]
I run on Peco (best local track) you can cut it with side cuters but it needs cleening up with a file. I use a Dremel type motor tool with a cutting disk, all you have to do is deburr the bottom edge. it works for me.
If you’re sceinifying pin it to rail hieght, if not, to sleaper hieght but don’t bury em in the sleapers, sorry about short & to the point me 2 fingers are killing me
CU
Pick
The usual ways of cutting flextrack is by using a razor saw or with a cutoff wheel in a motor tool. Atlas, X-Acto and others offer the razor saws. They have very fine teeth that won’t mess up the ends of the track. The ends still have to be cleaned up with a fine file though.
Most flextrack comes with holes in the center of ties every so often, and there are special track nails available from Atlas and others that can be used. They are blackened and have small head so they aren’t all that visible when installed. You’ll need either a small hammer or a nail set to drive them in, but pliers can also be used, depending upon which material they are being driven into.
I am surprised the others didn’t mention the following…
- For cutting… a xuron rail cutter. It is a plier-like took that is designed to cut rails without deforming them. You might have to use a file to ensure there are no rough corners; but it does a good job. However, after cutting, one piece with have a flat end to the rail, and the other piece will have an angled end (which you’ll have to trim or file flat). This can be a problem; but if you remember to put the flat part of the cutter towards the piece of track you wish to keep, you’ll end up with a perfectly cut piece.
- For securing track to roadbed… a thin bead of latex caulk. (Some people use white glue.) Both are good ways for quickly laying large amounts of track. Sewing pins or thumbtacks along with heavy objects are often used to help hold the track in place while the caulk/glue dries. Just be sure to avoid getting any near the moving parts of your turn-outs. Track nails are good; but if you hammer them in too much, you risk deforming the ties which can force the rails out of guage. Caulk can also secure your roadbed to the subroadbed, be it homosote, plywood or (extruded) foam.
Work with whatever option best suits you and your layout. We all have our favourites and preferences, all of which are quite good.
Yes, get a Xuron Rail Cutter. It’s a great tool. Use it only for cutting rail. Don’t be tempted to snip wires or toenails. Save it for its intended purpose.
When you glue down flextrack, you need to make sure it’s held solidly in place while the glue sets. The track naturally wants to straighten out, so it’s best to make sure you’ve got somthing holding it in place. I use foam roadbed on a foam base, and I use paper clips straightened out into a “hairpin” U-shape to temporarily hold track in place while the glue sets. Then I hold the track down with my wife’s heavy Martha Stewart book while the glue dries.
Depending on the code and brand of flextrack you use, nailing can be tricky. I use Atlas Code 100 flextrack on my layout, which comes with holes for nails. Atlas Code 83, as well as other brands of flextrack, do not have nail holes, so you’d have to drill them yourself. If you use glue you should not have a problem securing the track to the roadbed as long as you do it carefully. As for cutting flextrack, I can’t offer any advice. I only use flextrack for the straight sections in my yard and mainline.
The xuron rail cutter is fine but it’s another one of those specialty tools not needed. I use a rotory tool cut off wheel for the same results. Cut thru the rail and deburr the bottom. It takes about 5 seconds per rail.
There are two ways to secure the track. I use the Atlas rail spikes tapped into the middle tie holes with a punch and small hammer. Carefully hammer them in enough to snug the nail head against the tie. If you drive them into the tie it will bend the tie and get the track out of gauge.
The other method is to use a bead of latex caulk under the ties. I use a bunch of cans full of vegetables from momma’s pantry to hold the track in place until the caulk dries. The track nail method is the best for securing the track, but the latex caulk method has the advantage of moving the track without destroying the ties because the track lifts from the roadbed easier if you want to move the track at a later date.
One other note. Ballast the track as soon as possible after laying the track. Unballasted track has a tendency to move from side to side with room temperature changes which will allow the track to move from the exact spot you layed it. Once the track is ballasted, it’s not going anywhere.
[#ditto] [#ditto]
I used the dremel with a cutoff wheel for my first layout. But after trying the xuron rail cutter I will nev
Is there an issue with caulk and foam, or can you just lay the track on foam like anywhere else?
I’d say, “…it’s one of those specialty tools that make the job easier and more enjoyable.” (Maybe even safer; ever had a cutting disc shatter? The pieces are sharp and fly off at high speed.)
I’ll disagree here, too. I have never had a problem with properly-laid track “moving” and ballast works very well as the final step in the scenery process, where it can cover any rough edges in the surrounding scenery.
Remember to blink when using the rail nippers.
Side by side, the Rail nippers wins over the dremel hands down and is much safer.
David B
I might add to the good answers:
With the side cutter, you have to trim each edge with the “flat side” of the cutter. One side is always pointed
I use the diamond cutoff wheel in my dremel. It costs more to start, but it does not shatter and has a smaller kerf.
Beg pardon? Within the past hour I laid a yard of Atlas code 83 (concrete tie) flex, which does have nail holes. The joker is that you have to look at the bottoms of the ties to find them, then punch them through to the top.
For track which will be visible, Atlas makes track nails with both dark and white heads.
Rail can be cut by any of the methods noted above, or with other cutting tools not yet mentioned. I personally would not recommend either tin snips or vice grips - they really mess up the rail ends, calling for heavy use of the 10-inch flat file for cleanup. My weapon of choice is a pair of modified diagonal cutting pliers which I have been using since long before there was a Xuron tool. There is a trick to using them, so they probably aren’t a good choice for a beginner.
I use latex caulk for all my roadbed and flex track fastening, and am very satisfied with the results. Others are equally happy with their choice of fastening systems. This is an area where personal experimentation is in order.
My preferred method for laying Atlas flex is to pre-bend curved sections (which requires a very tight bend - on the order of 4 inch radius - to obtain a 24 inch radius set) with the fixed (code 100) rail to the outside of the curve. The extreme ends of the rails will probably require a little extra persuasion, which I provide with spread open long nose pliers. CAUTION: Do not overdo the end-bending. The object is to avoid kinks, not cause them.
Once the pre-bent flex conforms to the desired configuration I trim the rail ends with a small file - removing all burrs and putting a slight bevel on th
Track cutting tools
When laying new track, I have to agree with those who use the Xuron rail cutting tool; I use it too and find that it makes quick work of getting new track cut to the correct length required for accurate fits.
I typically will make a dry run with the flex track and cut the appropriate number of ties then lay the rail beside the existing track or attach the next flex track in place. If the flex track will be on a curve I then solder it to the next piece of flex track. Once I have all the dry run measurements and ties cut, I then attach the flex track to the one end of the existing track with joiners and make the appropriate cuts on the other end. I also slip in my NMRA track gauge in between the existing track and the new flex track cutting piece to ensure a small expansion gap, either with joiners or without them if the indented track location is going to be double gapped for DCC. Once the track is measured and cut I attach it to the roadbed with grey latex caulk (see description below)
I also use a .040 razor saw to cut track that is already in place. This is a trick that I learned from Kim Parker at Train Buddy. Before making the razor saw cut apply a liberal amount of CA on the track and ties that you intend to cut, and allow this to set for a few hours or overnight. Then with the razor saw make your rail cuts as required. The CA prevents the rail or ties from pulling apart from the roadbed or itself. I used this technique to make the final cuts as I built my swing gate.
Attaching roadbed and track
As far as attaching the track and roadbed I use grey latex caulk. I apply a ¼" bead of the caulk then spread it out thin with a fle
You’re right-Code 83 does have nail holes in the bottom. My mistake. When I mentioned drilling the holes, I was using advice from a fellow model railroader that I met at the hobby store who recommended drilling instead of forcing the nails in. He said forcing the nails in could damage the ties which could shift the rails (which he claimed happened to him). I don’t use Code 83, so sorry if I goofed on the advice.
EVERYTHING WORKS - if YOU do.
Xuron - side cutters - Dremel - Zoning saw.
Nails - spikes - caulk - white glue - chewing gum.
Model Power - Atlas - Peco - Shinohara - Micro-Engineering.
Code 100 - 83 - 75 - 70 - Hand laying.
CHOICES, CHOICES.
It boils down to Looks vs. Price; and Skill vs. Simplicity (also ‘modeling’ vs. ‘playing with trains’).
They ALL work. - whatever you call it.
Another option on the track spikes- if you don’t want to drill a hole somewhere you need to place a spike, I’ve heated the spikes up with a lighter, then pushed them right through the tie and into the cork. DISCLAIMER: Please hold the spike with a pair of pliers when heating- it tends to get warm!! The ties don’t get deformed, and the paint doesn’t flake off of the head of the spike.
For cutting flex-track I have a handful of MLR track tools to hold the ends in position while I cut the rail itself with Micro Engineering rail cutters. I dress up the cuts with a file.
I align my track on the cork and hold it in place for ballasting with a combination of water-soluble glue, push-pins and these MLR track tools- I have a bunch of these and they were only $1.98 apiece I believe when I bought them about 25 years ago. The push-pins I push into the cork on the outside of the rail. I ensure a tight track/cork fit by holding the track down with foot long 1/2 inch square brass bars suspended across my MLR track tools. Before ballasting I randomly drill several 1/32 inch holes through the cork into the Homasote beneath; when I pour my ballast some falls into these holes and will anchor into the Homasote. I use water-soluble glue to fix my ballast; I remove my push-pins after the gluing is completed. I had for many years used water-soluble glue for ballasting my switches but never used it for regular ballast until my most recent layout although I had seen this procedure recommended some years ago. In addition to my switches - some of my switches were on their third layout - I was able to salvage a good part of my flextrack when circumstances forced its demolition a few months back. I just soaked my ballast until the track floated free.
I use a cheap brand of latex caulk to secure my cork roadbed to both extruded foam as well as Woodland Scenic’s expanded foam Inclines with no problems at all.
If you use the kind that goes on white (and dries clear) you won’t have to worry about trying to cover up the colour. The clear caulk can be used anywhere without fear of its colour showing through ballast, grass, etc, and ruining the appearance. Also, since the caulk is fairly translucent, you can see your guidelines through it making cork and track laying simple.
A reminder : A very small (narrow) bead of caulk which you then spread out (with a putty knife or popsicle stick) in a thin layer is all you need. If you use too much, it will squeeze up between the ties can could hook on the undercarriage of your rollingstock and locomotives.
I just use a pair of rail nippers to cut mine. Just look out for flying bits of rail!
Wow, I never knew there were so many methods of laying tracking! I do it by laying cork and securing it with nails directly on the plywood, then laying Atlas Code 83 flex and nailing it to the cork. Works great for me. At the club I am a member of we lay track directly onto the homosite using Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement.