[:D] Maybe Thomas could be “pimped”. New MR series. “Pimp my train…”
I went out and ordered new track to fix my trackwork yesterday, and while I was at it I also bought a Bachmann Spectrum Southern 4-4-0 with DDC sound. It was severely marked down from RRSP and I couldn’t resist! It should run really well on my new and improved layout once complete.
Wow, lighten up, Francis. The statement is one of irony since it is obviously ridiculous, and meant to be laughable. Get it…laugh?
There you go. I was hoping someone would suggest that loco. I second that idea.
I came very close to purchasing that one but then came across the 4-4-0. Although I grew up in Western Canada I am not modelling any particular line or area. At present the layout is going to be a combination of mountains and lakes, similar to what you would see between Calgary and Vancouver, but I have different type of locos and rolling stock. This one is definitely a ‘make it up as you go along’ project.
Having fun is what this is all about. I have the same 4-4-0 and it is a sweet little loco. I converted her to CP no 29. The real one served until 1960 in eastern Canada… Simon
Just fix the track. You’ll be happier in the end.
I don’t think that anyone’s mentioned it yet, so let me be the first to tell you the bad news. You should probably re-lay some track. 
However, I’ve heard that the Bachmann consolidation can manage 15" curves, and unlike their USRA 0-6-0 it’s a very nice runner.
Not sure about current availability, but the old Mantua, “Logger,” 2-6-6-2T will wrap itself around a 12 inch radius - and doesn’t look hideous doing it. Of course, the Uintah prototype was engineered to take a 68 degree curve, which is just a touch over one foot when reduced to HO and expressed as a radius.
Mine is quite happy with my 350mm radius curves - on a railroad built to that standard which runs short cars and short locomotives. OTOH, the only JNR loco that could make that route would be a B20, if I owned one. (The JNR B20 class is an 0-4-0T shop switcher about the size of an SUV. It could take the curves, but wouldn’t be able to pull anything up the 4% grade.)
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Due to the molding process, the Atlas crossings and turnouts have the plastic parts when injected into the mold, actually overfill and therefore they leave a little bump in areas where there is the plastic frog parts. Here’s how to fix them.
Take a medium flat bastard file, and place it like you’re trying to file the entire crossing or turnout completely flat. Starting at the frog areas, file across these areas until the file starts to remove the top of the rail. This will remove much of the bumpiness of the crossings and the turnouts.
Make sure that you also file the plastic guardrails of each as well.
Now I too recommend that you use either the ribbonrail tool or the yardstick to determine the centerline of the new track.
I am of the belief that until the trackwork is solidly layed, and nothing derails going thru it, that you don’t add scenery. I also recommend that you tack the track down with nails until perfect. Later on when you ballast, the ballast will hold it in place, and all nails can be removed. To tack down, make sure you finish punching thru the nailholes that can be found by turning the track over.
Once all derailments are eliminated except those caused by operator error, then the track is bulletproof and scenery can proceed.
Well the little 4-4-0 has turned up. It’s TINY compared to my Y6b but gets around my layout without any problem bar one, it can only pull 2 cars max. up my steeper inclines. The wheels start to spin Near the top of the hill(s). I noticed my Y6b has little rubber rings on a few of its wheels, I assume to help with traction. Can I get same for 4-4-0? It doesn’t have any trouble pulling multiple cars on the flatter sections, just the hills. It certainly highlights every flaw in my track work given the tiny front wheels but is very nimble and gets through any slightly uneven sections easily.
Buschy:
The rubber rings are called traction tires, and you can likely get them in a size that would fit your 4-4-0. However, you may be solving one problem but causing another. The traction tires interfere with power pick up, and since you are only picking up power on four wheels now, reducing power pick up is likely to cause frequent stalling.
There are a couple of other possible solutions. One is to add weight, but finding space for that in a small engine could be a challenge.
A second is to add power pick up to the front truck, but that would be really fussy work and might interfere with tracking.
Perhaps the easiest solution would be to buy another 4-4-0 and double head them. I believe that double heading switchers was not uncommon, and it would look neat to. If you really wanted to get fancy, you could park the second switcher on a small siding close to the inclines and only pull it out as a helper when needed. That would add some interest to operations if it suits your layout.
Dave
If I need to get down to a 18" radius turn, I find the best way is to just get some Snap-Track of 18" radius and use that for the turn. I put it down and test run trains for a little bit. When the track proves to work properly, I solder all the joints, so everything stays in place.
Good advance and it works quite well…The 4 HO loop layouts (recall I prefer switching layouts) I built over the years had 18" curves.
There is no sin in using 18" snap track curves if that’s the largest curve you can use due to limited layout space.
I have a large layout, 15x30 and an 18" radius min. but then I run mostly 40’ or smaller cars (50’ will make it and look decent though), and Decapods are my largest engine. It was made for Proto 0-6-0 and 0-8-0 and small diesels.
While they might not make traction tires specifically for that unit, if they fit, then they will work. (You will have to unhook the side rods first though… To avoid this, see further down in post…)
However, you can make your own using a product called bullfrog snot.
(I prefer my units not to have either of these additional traction aids, as it will sometimes create electrical issues, especially on slightly dirty track. That rubber treaction tire does not conduct electricity.)
But, some loco’s just must have it. (Especially smaller, lighter units.) Bullfrog snot, when properly applied, (follow the directions carefully!) does work. (Yes, it does eventually wear off, but, so do the rubber tires.) Don’t expect a miracle ( won’t go from 2 cars to 200.) but it will have better traction, allowing better pulling power. (Drawbar pull in railroad lingo.) Yes, the cost for the bottle seems high, but you get literally dozens (way more than I needed) of applications. (And, it’s universal. No need to find the right size tires! Works on every size, every scale.)
(Can’t believe nobody suggested this yet…)
Edited for clarity…