I’m having a problem with some cars “picking the point” so to speak on a turnout on my HO scale layout. When rolling over a facing-point turnout set to the diverging route, the wheels will take the straight route, rolling over the switch points and derailing the car.
The switch points are not moving to allow this. The turnout, like all the others on my layout, has a Caboose Industries ground throw that doesn’t allow for any unwanted movement. It’s working correctly. The wheels are actually riding up over the switch points, completely ignoring the flanges.
I’ve tried filing the points, but it just isn’t workng because that is suggested to keep it from picking the point, not riding up over it.
Would shimming up the points higher on the throwbar work? I’m not really worried about accidentally going higher than the stock rails, because none of my coupler trip pins are low enough to hit them. Is this a no-no anyway?
I think the cars in question have semi-scale flanges, so that might be a part of the problem. I really don’t want to have to replace the wheelset on those cars; I already have a bunch of other cars that need metal wheels too.
The turnout is an Atlas #6 turnout. I’ve watched closely, and the points are not moving a bit. I’ve also inspected the wheels, and there’s no sign of debris on the tread or chipped flanges.
Here are some things to check. First is it the same car cars that do this. Have you checked the track gauge through the switch, sometimes the point rail doesn’t maintain the correct radius it’s whole length. Do the trucks on offending car swival freely. Are the offending car’s wheels gauged correctly. Do the couplers swing freely. does the point rail have a dip int it. Is there a hump or dip in the track just before the switch. Will the offending car roll through the switch by itself. And finally do the offending cars go through other switches ok. Maybe others here will have more ideas. Ken
i am betting on either the truck mounting screws are too tight, or you have wheels that are skewed on the axles. they may be in gauge but offset more to one side than the other.
I totally agree with the two previous posters and would follow their advice first. One similar problem I had with an Atlas turnout was due to the fact it was not on a level surface, and was almost vertically warped as I nailed down each end of the turnout (I knew better, but did it anyway).
Well, the car(s) are fine. But I did discover that many of my Atlas turnouts are out of gauge… The wheel drops into a gap in the switches… I messed around with the origanal turnout by bending some of the rails back into gauge with needlenosed pliers, but that’s only a quick fix. Any suggestions on how to fix this short of replacing the turnout?
First, the previous replies are right on target. If all else fails, you could install a guard rail at the point end of the turnout, on the opposite side of the offending point. I have done that a time or two and so do the real railroads when needed. I usually make it out of a short piece of rail, bending the ends as required, and gluing it down using Walthers Goo. The guard rail should be positioned as to pull all wheels away from the offending point. Use an NMRA gauge to get the correct flange-way clearance from the stock rail, but can be wider if necessary. Remember that the guard rail has to work in both directions on the rolling stock wheels, but doesn’t have to be over the throw bar.
Yes. You can clip off the plastic spike heads in the area that you need to move the rail, on both sides of the rail. Then using a tiny drill bit, drill spike holes in the plastic ties. Next you can drive real small spikes in the holes and the roadbed. When you drill the holes, force the rail into the position that it should be in, and only drill through the plastic. Don’t drill into the roadbed. While you are getting the spikes in, you should be able to make some minor adjustments to the rail.
If you gauge your wheels, gauge your track, check for binding in the truck movement and ensure your cars are up to NMRA weight standards, then you are set.
I have had the same problem , and some of my cars still do. I have guaged them , checked tightness , etc, but to no avail.I have used a very small and fine file to work on filing down where some of my wheels were bumping up. I have Atlas #6 turnouts also, and filing seemed to help
I am interested in this guard rail, but without a drawing or picture, I have not a clear idea where it goes.
Thought I would add my two cents…Check the cars going over the turnout in both directions. That is to say turn the car around and try it. That could show if the wheels are skewed on the truck. Is the offending point rail high enough to do its job? One other thing. Is there crud on the wheels? I have torn out what little hair is left on my head on derailment issues only to finally discover a little piece of dirt causing the problem. Good Luck
This new poster (and welcome to Model Railroader forums!) has stated my own observations with individual cars that don’t want to go through a diverging route from the points end. The point rail throwbar may have dropped because the turnout is partly torsioned, or its underlying support is bent or damaged, or missing. The diverging route point is low, while the other side is high, including when they are lined. The one axle side works, but the flange on the diverging point side just misses or hops over the point rail top and the rest you can figure out.
Dirty tire surfaces count for a lot. Wheels that wobble can make a difference. Bent axles, too. A truck pivot bearing that is not horizontal, but angled, thus lifting one side of the truck when it pivots. Flashing under there. Axle ends not properly seated in their receptacles. Receptacles not cleaned out with a Truck Tuner. Wrong size axle ends, wrong length of axle in the trucks. Wheels not aligned back to front on one side of the axle…they don’t track line ahead on tangent track, but still manage to stay on the rails. It is the turnout that trips them up. Too little weight in the body of the car. Twisted truck frames.
I have listed enough things that should help to find the cause if the points rails are nice and sharp, as you have claimed.
One thing I have used on the “tough to figure out derailment problems” is running (by 0-5-0 power) the Micromart clear plastic test car over the problem area. Being able to see exactly what the wheels/trucks are doing can often help solve the problem.
Oh, one solution may not have been mentioned… If all else fails, replace the turnout. That should at least tell you the problem is with the cars, or the turnout - hopefully.