Functional improvements of the Athearn 86-ft hi-cube boxcars

[BN7150]

Early in the new year, I came up with some ideas for the blue box model, which has been annoying me for nearly 30 years. Take a look at the successful completion of the trial. The point is to upgrade to the same functional level as the Walthers Pullman-Standard cars.

The left SP car is this modified one made by Athearn, and the right BN car is the target made by Walthers.

1. Swinging coupler pocket and cushion-underframe extention

Basically, add Kadee pocket #242 to Walthers conversion kit #933-997.

(1-1) Use 1.5mm thick polystyrene plate (PS, 6.4 x 18.5mm) for the joint. Since the swinging coupler pocket of the conversion kit is a polyacetal (POM) that is difficult to adhere, fasten it with two machine screws M2 x 2. The crux of the matter is to use the adapter upside down and to use the low head type for machine screws. The thickness of the pocket is 0.7mm, and the screw allowance is 1.3mm. Of course, the coupler rotation axis is shaved off. A sharp nipper and a flat chisel is useful for this.

Bonded the styrene-made pocket to the joint with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Cut 2mm off the tail end of the pocket to reduce the length. Since the lid is easy to come off, fix it with the low-head screw M2 x 4. Make a female screw hole in the joint plate, and the screw allowance is about 1.0 mm.

(1-2) Use the Kadee #118 Metal “SF” Shelf “Whisker” Coupler. Please note that there was once leaf spring type with the same product number. Although the shelf coupler is different from the prototypes, it is extremely effective in preventing the accidental uncoupling, which is likely to occur in rolling stocks with large overhang.

1.0mm thick shims (green) for the conversion kit are recommended. The calculation is 1.2mm thick. The body bolster shims (orange) are 1.2mm thick.

(1-3) Cut 1.2mm thick styrene plates to the appropriate size and shape, and attach them to the underside of the floor (19741). And attach the entire conversion kit with three screws. The thickness of shims clears the head of the low-head M2 x 2 screws and also serves to keep the coupler height. [P.S. Even if the plate thickness of 1.2mm is 1.0mm, there is no practical problem. The couplers originally tend to hang down, so it is better to attach them a little higher. The six self-tapping screws are four M2 × 5 and two M2 × 6, pan-head all.]

(1-4) On the other hand, Stuck a 1.2mm thick styrene plate (29 x 300mm) on the top entire surface of the plastic floorboard (this is of course done first of this kitbashing. 1.0mm thickness may be OK. In the case of exceeding 1.2mm, it is necessary to pay attention to the mounting position of the floor plate sinking stopper described later). Fix the steel weight (90717) with 2 screws from above.

This photo shows white 1.2mm plate affixed to the top of floor and steel weight (black painted) attached. The latter two (*1)s are the original machine screw positions, and the modification was intended as two (*2)s to stabilize the height of the couplers.

(1-5) Cut off the ends of the underframe (19742) so that it does not compete with the conversion kit (see the kit manual).

Left is assembled according to the Athearn instructions, and right is this modification.

(1-6) Cut off the part where the lower part of the car ends interference the coupler pocket interfere. Well, this cutout hides under the end platform.

(1-7) Key parts for the modification should be available in the United States. Living in Japan, I used “Yahata screws” for low-head screws and Tamiya 1.2 mm thick styrene plates.

Kadee #242 is included with #118. I got bulk pack #118-25 couplers and #242 pockets separately.

To be continued.

Kuriu, Kotaro
Kyoto JAPAN

[mbinsewi]

Looks easy enough, nice.

Just a little confusing,

Take a look at the successful completion of the trial. The point is to upgrade to the same functional level as the Walthers Pullman-Stanndard cars.

I must have misunderstood, I thought you were upgrading the Athearn car to the same function as the Walthers.

It looks like your changing the Walthers car.

Nice, clean project though.

Mike.

[doctorwayne]

…I must have misunderstood, I thought you were upgrading the Athearn car to the same function as the Walthers. It looks like your changing the Walthers car…

No, those green ones in the construction photos are the Athearn cars - you can tell by the style of the end-corrugations.

Wayne

[mbinsewi]

OK, thanks Wayne. I was going by color, [D)]

It looks like a nice upgrade though.

Mike.

[riogrande5761]

If a better version of the 86’ auto parts isn’t released in the next year, which I’ve heard rumors there may be one in the works, I may give this a try.

The other option would be to use the Details West draft gear which I’ve got one set already.

[SeeYou190]

Very timely post. I am also working on something along the same lines.

.

Hopefully I will have something to share soon.

.

-Kevin

.

[BN7150]

The attached conceptual diagram is a study of the modification method. From the height of the coupler installation 11.5mm and the floor bottom height 10.6mm, the shims (green) thickness of the conversion kit installation was led to 1.2mm. However, since each part has distortion and deformation, it cannot be completed according to the numbers. You can also see that the top of the coupler pocket is close to the end platform.

[dknelson]

This is a very clear and useful project. I have some of these Athearn auto parts cars on the shelf and should do this.

I should probably print out the posting since I have learned through bitter experience that sometimes when I finally get around to doing a project illustrated with photos on these forums (it can take years), the photos are gone due to the hosting website being gone.

Dave Nelson

[BN7150]

In the photo, from the back, product as is, one with the Walthers conversion kit, this trial model, Walthers PS car, and the front end is Athearn 85’ flatcar with the A-Line weights.

2. Around the trucks

(2-1) The product body bolster (part of the underframe 19742) had an increased thickness to make the Drawber (19743) movable. For this reason, the bolster approached the upper part of the truck-side frame, making it difficult for the body to rock side-to-side (it is easy to derail at the entrance of the superelevation = cant). The difference is obvious when compared to shorter 50-foot and 40-foot cars. Therefore, cut off both outer halves of the body bolsters. In addition, sandwich 1.2mm styrene plates between the body bolster and the floor. 1.2mm may be a 0.7mm and 0.5mm overlap. The plates can be glued to either, but I did to the floor.

From the left, as is, modified, and a 40-foot car are shown. Note the positional relationship between the bolster and the pivot plate surface, not the shape of the bolsters.

As for the equipment layout, the rear two cars remain the products, and the third car (red) is this modified model. The foreground is Walthers (green), and the R-side near the A-end also has a relay valve(?).

(2-2) As with other blue box models, the arrangement of the underfloor equipment is reversed, so make corrections. The direction of the brake cylinder push rod is also opposite. Attach the three devices to the underframe (19742) via strips. This is more convenient for spray painting than gluing them to the underside of the floor, and should match the actual car structure.

(2-3) It is more convenient not to glue the floor and the underframe. However, the underframe is long, so it may float off the floor. Therefore, bond the screw seat in advance to the center of the lower surface of the floor in order to hold it with a screw. 7mm long with 3 x 3mm square styrene. Cut the M2 tap in the center. Use low-head screws M2 × 4. Cars with Hydra-Cushoin would have a vertical cylinder in this place, but there were likely no 86-foot cars with it.

(2-4) Cut off parts of the ribs on the underside of the floor that may compete with the wheel flanges. Since the bottom height of the floor is 10.6mm, I consider it dangerous with 33-inch diameter wheels (9.6mm/HO scale). (See the (1-4) photo)

On the other hand, with 36-inch dia wheels (10.5mm/HO scale) for 100-ton cars, if you want to keep the plate G, you have to rethink the structure from scratch.

(2-5) Athearn 33 inch dia long axle (8 pieces, ATH 90501) is optimal for metal wheels. The 26.5mm long axles for the blue box used to be supplied by Atlas, Bowser and etc. Among them, the product of the Japanese model shop “Sakatsu” had the highest quality. Currently only Athearn products are available.

To be continued.

[BRAKIE]

Guys,I must be living right or is it my 4 leaf clover…At one time I had a 18 car train of 86’ autoparts boxcars that ran flawlessly… Of course I took care in building them.

[dknelson]

Guys,I must be living right or is it my 4 leaf clover…At one time I had a 18 car train of 86’ autoparts boxcars that ran flawlessly… Of course I took care in building them.

On what radius curve, Larry?

Dave Nelson

[BRAKIE]

Dave, IIRC the club had a mixture of 26" to 36" curves 36" being the largest on the main line… I do know Wayfeild Industrial had 18" curves… I recall this because I preached,begged and argued for nothing less then 22" curves in that area.

[restorator]

I converted mine to Kadee #451’s as it was a lot less work and they work fine for me on 24" radius.

[BN7150]

restorator, you’re right. #451 is included in various sources I have collected for many years. But I can’t remember why didn’t. Please show me an example.

[BN7150]

The biggest caveat when procuring those model from aftermarket is to avoid assembled one. This is because the floor is almost always adhered to the body shell. I also glued years ago. I understand the feelings of the previous owner. Without adhesive, the floor is easily sinked and frequently detached.

3. Installation of floors, and so on

(3-1) The solution to prevent sinking is simple: just provide a stopper inside the shell. However, its height and position are difficult.

By measuring the two dimensions in the figure with a caliper and adding them together, the dimension can be determined. Fix the vernier caliper at this dimension, and use the depth measuring part at the tail end as a gauge attached to the stopper. It is reasonable to place the stopper a little in front and push it with this tail end to get the desired position.

The stopper (yellow in the figure) was initially 1.2mm thick, but for security, I increased to 2.4 mm, which was a double stack. The size is 10 x 10mm, and the three places on one side of the picture above are the result of trial and error.

(3-2) The method of keeping the floor from coming off is simple, and it is only necessary to glue small pieces of the retaining plate. You may think that this posision cannot be determined.

Attach the unti-sink stoppers first. When firmly attached, insert the floor. Then, place a small piece of plastic (blue) on the inside of the side-body between the cross sills as shown in the photo and pour the MEK adhesive. You will be worried that it will be glued to the floor. Immediately spread the side plate on both sides to separate from the floor plate. Release after a while. If you repeat this several times, it will no longer adhere. The first thing to do is to push the tip of the screwdriver so that the small pieces fit into the inside of the side-body. Adhesive strength may be weak from above the paint coating. If a small piece comes off, you can do it again.

By the way, the thickness of the small pieces is important. If it is too thin, the floor will easily come off, and if it is too thick, it will be difficult to remove. I made it 0.7mm. The size is 3 x 7mm. For the 86 ‘car this time, there were four pieces, but for the 40’ and 50 'cars, two pieces are enough.

(3-3) Stirrups at the four corners of the body shell may be broken. If any broken parts remain, they may be reattached with adhesive. However, this bonding is difficult. Almost adhesives have weak adhesive strength. I recommend one of the two types of d-limonene. It is without other ingredients. Tamiya calls it “pouring type”, Extra Thin Limonen Cement.

If you have lost any broken stirrups, cut out a 1mm or 1.2mm thick styrene plate. The tip is as the figure.

1. Finish the two right angles (*1) of the plate. 2) Scribe the lines with a vernier caliper measuring unit and a cutter knife. 3) Cut out the inside with a thread saw. 4) Finish the inside with a knife and a file. 5) Cut the outside with a thread saw. If you leave the red circle (*2) and break it off with your fingers, you will rarely lose what you made. 6) Finish the outside with a knife and a file. Be the cross section trapezoidal so that the front side looks thin. 7) Glue in place with d-limonene and leave for 24 hours. 8) Paint the color. (This figure shows for a person holding a thread saw in his right hand. If you are in your left hand, flip the figure.)

Apparently, Athearn seems to have increased the thickness of the stirrup mold in the 1998 release.

Next, shows repairing the thing that the body shell deformed and expanded. D-limonene is also effective for such bonding. Because the round bars happened to be at hand.

(3-4) Painting: I think that the whole under the floor is the body color of the prototype. If I owned a similar color in spray can, it was sprayed. The others were sprayed in black.

I used a lot of white styrene for the reworking, but of course, using black is less noticeable. It is better not to paint the sliding surface. Also, because the coupler pockets and covers of the conversion kit are polyacetal, I prefer the unpainted ones rather than the paints that come off.

Paint the heads of the screws black. It’s easy if you stab them on corrugated paper and spray with primer and color paint. I have never experienced any trouble without degreasing. Of course, black screws are sold.

On the car body, I think it would look better if the black hand brake handle was the same as the car body color. Even if the color matching is not enough, there will be no discomfort at this level.

The roof color should be the galvanized iron seat silver for new cars. The red SP car is going to change. Is only ATSF black? I think it’s the body color for repainted cars such as BN.

(3-5) The weight (mass) of the product as assembled was 195 grams, and increased by reworking to about 220grams. Since the distance between both ends of the coupler pocket is 320mm, the recommended value of NMRA is 207grams, this is a pass.

(3-6) The height of the coupler also seemed to fall slightly. Fine adjustment was made by bending the trip pin with a wire plier.

That’s all for in the two weeks of the New Year.

[restorator]

restorator, you’re right. #451 is included in various sources I have collected for many years. But I can’t remember why didn’t. Please show me an example.

I finally got some pics uploaded. As you can see on this particular car that I had tried the Walthers type coupler in it. Now it has the Kadee #451s.

[restorator]

The Kadee #451s allow for an adequate amount of swing without too much when you are pulling forward, as the coupler will slide off the “point” molded into the cam that is fastened to the car body. And when backing the train, pressure keeps the coupler box locked against the cam in the centered position.

[BN7150]

restorator, that’s great! Also I’m going to try using Kadee #451 once under my politics of sticking to the height of the body and coupler.

[csxns]

I have one of the Athearn 86 ft that has the Walthers swinging coupler that works great so i will keep it that way now i have another one and that Kadee #451 looks like a try.

[BN7150]

Inspired by restorator, I started kitbashing to install the Kadee #451s into models. These are tri-level auto carriers, released by Custom Rail in 1993. I adopt two types of mounting methods, and it seems that either can work. The rest is the superstructures.