Hello, this is my first post in the Model Railroader forums. [:)]
I watched the model railroader “How To” video on coupler maintenance and I had a question. I was already aware of offset shank Kadee’s and washers and have numerous version of the Kadee coupler in my parts inventory. The question I had was in regards to the screw that was mentioned that was put in place if a gearbox was too lose to stay together. An example that comes to mind is I have a Athearn RTR gondola and I placed a couple washers inside the gear box to make the couplers level when matched up to a Kadee coupler height gauge. The issue is the gear box will sometimes come apart or become loose and unusable even when there are no cars being pulled with it. What kind of screws can be used to fix cars with this perdicament or what other options are out there? Thanks a lot for the help!
I don’t know if this will help - I don’t have any Athern equipment (all of my rolling stock is either wood or brass).
Anyway…
I generally use the #5 draft gear boxes and swap couplers with offset shanks as needed. After assembly, I fuse the draft gear boxes shut using a soldering iron, then I mount them using a screw through the center hole in the box. If adjustment is necessary, I put Kadee paper washers between the box and the car body (lowers the coupler) or between the trucks and bolster (raises the coupler).
Generally a 2-56 screw is used to attach the coupler box. It sounds like you need one a little longer so the threads of the screw have something to ‘bite’ into. A #2 self tapping screw will work if you have a wood or plastic underframe. My preference is to drill/tap 2-56 threads into the carbody and use a standard 2-56 machine screw.
If I understand correctly, you tried to adjust the coupler height by placing shim washers directly inside the box. Coupler boxes are designed to fit the coupler shank and centering spring w/ as min of vertical clearance as possible once the cover is secured. By placing shims inside the box you would jamb the coupler unless the screw is backed off. This in itself would cause the troubles you’re having with the not seated cover/ screw comimg loose. I have placed thin shims within a box only to take up excessive vertical movement. If you have low couplers (using the Kadee gauge), you should first try placing the red fiber washer between the bolster and truck. This will raise the frame, thus coupler and generally place a #5 coupler in range for height. BTW, this is nec for many Athearn BB pieces.
Gons, tank and hoppers can sometimes pose troubles with the coupler box screw as there is generally very little floor/ frame to engage the threads of the 2/56 screw. Repl
The washers are used between the trucks and mounting boss on the center sill to raise the coupler but first you need to do a couple of things to an Athearn car. If your car has the flat weight that goes between the frame and car bottom they are sheared and nearly always twisted or bowed pushing the couplers down. Place the weight on a flat surface and straighhten it with your finger tips. Most Kadees are drop in for Athearn coupler boxes. The ones with the metal covers sometime are bent too far so the sides aren’t square. Use needle nose pliars to genty square them up. Then use the pliars to squeeze the cover on. You wll feel and hear it snap over the ears. The tank car coupler box covers need to be glued with a liquid glue so they stay tight.
Don’t you love the phrase RTR and the money and time you’re spending to fix something.
From your description, I’m not sure if you’re using the OEM plastic coupler of a thicker Kadee with flat centering spring that takes up room. And you can put the flat spring on top or bottom of the coupler to get some change in height. On the old metal coupler box clips, you could sometimes bend the lip to raise or lower the coupler a little.
The poster that mentioned a #2 or 2-56 is right. Make sure you figure out which one you want to use before drilling.
I found that even after straightening a BB weight, it still pushes the underframe and the couplers down. So I glued all my weights inside my BB rolling stock. I don’t run with boxcar doors open so the weights don’t show.
Well I forgot to add that I fill Athearn cars with soupy plaster to give them more mass. This works well on box cars, hoppers, covered hoppers and some tank cars. Just leave enough room in a box car to add the floor when dry. The plaster dries to a form fitting weight of very little cost.
I bought a lifetime supply of 2-56 screws at an electronic wholesaler for a couple of bucks. Walthers sells them but they are pricey. The bigger the quantity the cheaper they get and they have other uses. You will also want a 2-56 clearance drill and tap for making threaded holes where none exist.