Hello everyone… I think I’m going to be asking quite a few questions over the next year or so as I build my layout. I’ve lurked around here for the past few months but am finally ready to start on my layout.
I’ve already picked up some rollingstock and motive power (7 locos; 4 Kato, 3 Proto 2000).
Here’s what I know for sure:
I plan on running no more then 3 or 4 locos at once on my layout even though I’ve got 7 (layout size restrictions).
I’m going DCC and will buy the Digitrack Zephyr set shortly.
Here’s a plan of what I’d like my layout to be:
My plan is to have two levels with the outer ring/rectangle a higher elevation then the inner with yards on each ring/rectangle and two interchanges between each level. Comments??
I haven’t bought any track yet but am leaning towards code 83. From what I’ve read, I’m thinking of buying Peco turnouts and flex/straights or Atlas flex/straights. From the searching I’ve done on-line, I haven’t found if the the Peco code 83 turnouts have brown or black ties. I know the Atlas Code 83 straights/flex have brown ties. Next question is about turnouts and insulfrogs vs electrofrogs. From what I’ve read on-line, if you’ve got short wheelbase loco’s, they’re likely to stop on insulfrog turnouts compared to electrofrogs. My “short” wheelbase locos are: S3, SW900 & GP9. Should I be concerned with these locos stopping on the turnouts in my yards if I go with Peco insulfrogs? What disadvantages are there going with insulfrog turnouts on my entire layout?
Recap:
Comments on my proposed layout?
What colour ties do the Peco 83 turnouts have?
Given the loco’s I’ve got, will they hang-up on insulfrogs turnouts in my yards?
looks like a small layout , but you have 2 yards and no industries to switch . looks like there would be very little to do after construction is ‘finished’
i have an atlas code 83 custom like turnout and the ties are black . my peco code 83 has dark brown ties , so dark they look black except under bright light or when viewed next to something that really is black . i suspect that after painting , weathering and ballasting it would be very hard to tell the difference between the two
can’t say for sure but i think the GP9 would be no problem unless it’s a really old model that only picks up power from one end
The locos you listed should have no problems on insul-frog turnouts as they are probably all wheel pickup. I prefer insulated frogs myself. I don’t have to worry about shorts between the rails. Had those before, didn’t like it.
Welcome back and welcome to the forum. I proceeded you about 14 months ago and this forum has been helpful. I went with Atlas flex track in 83. It is fine. I have mostly Walther’s turnouts and they are not a problem. Some of my old engines needed a little work to go DCC. Your decision to start in DCC is good. I waited and it cost me. I went with the Superchief with radio. It cost a bundle but it sure is cool. What I always wished runninng trains could be. Good luck and keep us posted.
I have no comments on the track plan because I don’t know what you are after. I found with DCC I needed a lot of staging area, because I always was running 3 or 4 trains.
TIA, I am at about the same point you are. I’ve got the track plan pretty well nailed and after a garage sale next weekend, should have enough room in the basement to start construction. I’ve got the Digitrax Super Chief and really like it. I’ve decided on Code 83 as well but I am going to give my best shot at hand laying turnouts. From what I’ve read on here and seen at some club layouts, hand laid turnouts really can’t be beat. As for your track plan, it is totally your call. I’ve run enough “Plywood Centrals” in my life to know now that I needed to set some basic parameters for what I wanted in the railroad and just stick with them this time. Example: Passenger trains are my thing, just love 'em, so I set my minimum radius at 48" for mainline & #8 turnouts. Yes I had to give up some things in my 1st grandiose plan but operationally & visually it will be worth it. Just think your plan through, stick to your must haves, and you’ll end up with a layout that you’ll enjoy for a long time. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress…regards, John
What’s your name? I don’t want to be a sticky beak, but we are friends here and it is nicer to greet someone by name. John in the previous post called you TIA, but I have an idea that might mean thanks in advance. Perhaps I am wrong.
Good to see someone else coming back to the hobby like me. Guess we all go through phases of life where we are too busy or too upset or whatever. But it feels good to be back messing around with trains.
I am using Peco code 83 and most likely an NCE radio set. Still to finally decide on that one.
Need to know more of your druthers before I could say anything about your track sketch.
Enjoy the return to the hobby. The stuff available now is just so much better than it was in the 1980s! I can’t bear to throw out my old memories, but I find the new products just so far superior that the old ones tend to get pushed to the back.
Welcome to the forum. It’s always nice to meet some of the “guests” that are here reading and learning, but not ready to jump in and join in the conversation yet.
I guess since you’ve been hanging out here a bit you already recognize some of the people who’ve posted in answer to your questions. They’re good people and they know what they’re talking about. They’ve given you some good advice already, and to that I’d only add one thing.
The layout you show may have some access issues. If you can’t have access on at least three sides, you’re not going to be able to reach everywhere on the layout if you need to. Trust me, the last place in the world that you think you’re going to need to get to is the one place you’ll end up needing to get to the most. It always seems to work out that way. The thing is, if you do have access to three sides or more, then you probably aren’t using the space you’ve got to your best advantage. You would probably have room to do an “around the walls” type layout, maybe with a center peninsula, and either a duck under or a drop leaf entry way. The basic track plan you have could remain the same (though I would add some industries), it would just be reshaped.
So I guess the question is,…how big is your room?
Would you be interested in exploring some other options, either to come up with something better, or to confirm that what you’ve got is what you want.
Also, what track planning software are you using? If you’re in need of some, there’s several free ones out there that aren’t bad. Two that come to mind are the Atlas software ( http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm ) and XTrkCad ( http://www.sillub.com/ ). I use the Atlas, but some of the others like the other better. Just remember to register either one of these or you will be VERY limited in what it allows you to do. Registration is free and only takes a few minutes. Then just follow the tutorials and you’re off.
I too have questions regarding size and access. My guess is you have more room for a layout than you think and are therefore limiting what you can do with the layout.
More than anything, now is the time to plan research and plan some more. You’re going to dump a lot of money into your layout, you might as well have the best plan you can have starting in.
Seems to be alot of us comming back after a long absence in this great hobby. For me it’s 30+ years, and there has been a lot of catching up to do. You have done well in your choices so far, and as stated earlier you may find a better use of your space. You seem to be still open to suggestions, so you may want to check out this site. It’s a wealth of information, and it is dedicated to layout design. There’s a lot of good people there, so bring your Givens & Druthers, and join the party! Many good layouts already posted to look through for ideas.
The train set will be in a room that’s 8’3" by 7’6". I’ve got another 12" of width on a 5’ long window sill which adds to the 7’6".
As “ereimer” pointed out, I don’t have any industries which is important to have once layout construction is done. Great point! So instead of going for two separate mainlines/loops on different levels I should probably look at one level for the main line with some industries. I plan on making the an around the wall layout, height around 55" (I’m 6’2") and will have a duck under entryway. That will give me easy acess to all points being in the centre.
I’m open to anything for a layout! I haven’t cut any wood yet so now’s a good time to get it right! I do know I’ll need 22" radius curves on the main line so my AC4400 & SD90’s won’t have problems. “pcarrell”: I haven’t heard of the software but I’ll check it out!
The train set will be in a room that’s 8’3" by 7’6". I’ve got another 12" of width on a 5’ long window sill which adds to the 7’6".
As “ereimer” pointed out, I don’t have any industries which is important to have once layout construction is done. Great point! So instead of going for two separate mainlines/loops on different levels I should probably look at one level for the main line with some industries. I plan on making the an around the wall layout, height around 55" (I’m 6’2") and will have a duck under entryway. That will give me easy acess to all points being in the centre.
I’m open to anything for a layout! I haven’t cut any wood yet so now’s a good time to get it right! I do know I’ll need 22" radius curves on the main line so my AC4400 & SD90’s won’t have problems. “pcarrell”: I haven’t heard of the software but I’ll check it out!
Chris,
Allow me to point you to a site that has helped me a lot. It’s the Layout Design Group. You can check it out at http://www.vetmed.auburn.edu/~smithbf/BFSpages/LDSIGprimer/TOC.html . I’ve learned a ton from this site and I’m sure that you too will find it useful.
The two suggestions that Phillip made I’d like to second. The first is to read the Layout Design Primer. The second is to get some design software. There are two free one’s, of which the XtraCAD is more versatile. The drawing you have will most likely not fit in your space.
Now this is just me, but I would look at your space as a series of related scenes in which a railroad runs through. They can be towns, yards, forest, industry, etc. On the largest side, you have room for a small yard.
If you like operations and switching, you can increase your variety and realism by dedicating one wall to staging, You can have a scene in front of the staging with a low backdrop in front of it. Do you have a closet in that room? If so, you could use the closet for staging or use the closet to access the back side of the layout where staging is hidden. If you don’t know what staging is, this is the time to find out. It is much easier to plan for than to figure out later and want to add. (I’m in the latter category.)
Not quite, these shorts are caused by incorrectly gauged metal wheels or over width metal wheels that briefly touch both rails (near the frog) at the same time.
With the engines you have, you should have no problems with the insulfrogs. Only engines with 4 wheel electrical pickup, or very short wheelbase engines, like an 0-4-0 tank engine, would stall. If you use the insulfrogs, then just keep this in mind for all future engine purchases.
I would recommend powering the frogs. My BLI E-6 invariably stalled on unpowered frogs despite being a 6-axle locomotive. Sound may have played a role in this but once I powered the frogs, no more problems.
Hi, name is Ken. Spent last 20 yr in SCCA. Joined ops group and back to building Barnstead Lumber. I can see that this group will help. No room for layout at this time. Best to all.
There’s lots of good advice here. Just one point. You have to consider how you’re going to stay interested in the layout once it’s built. Generally, layouts that conform the closest to the way real railroads work tend to hold one’s interest the longest. Real railroads don’t run around in circles. Since your space is so limited why not think in terms of three or even four levels. A staging yard on the lowest and a destination on the highest with industries in between and a grade of perhaps 2 or 3 percent connecting the levels in a kind of around the walls spiral. You might need to operate helpers to get your trains upgrade, adding another operating wrinkle. Passing tracks would let you operate opposing trains, staging meets and exploiting the full possibilities of DCC
