Northern Pacific beat me to it… I was thinking that diesel discussions were edging out steam here! Perception is everything, I guess. So, I do what many have suggested that you do… Speakup! Initiate! There are enough of us here so that someone is on the same page as you are and can respond and expand on your posting.
This place is about two basic things, sharing and learning, from what I have seen.
After being in HO since 1958, I finally am working that long held and long put-off dream of the narrow gauge and that means few to zero diesels. But when I was into HO, I loved, acquired and modified a whole gang of my favorite diesel, the Atlas RS-1. All are now safely stored in a disused closet.
As a newbie to HOn3, (only two years this month), I have learned a lot here and shared a bit, too.
It may seem slow now, but if you post something you are passionate about, that’s one more speed step up on the throttle…A diesel throttle.
Mostly ‘first generation’ diesels (e.g. SW9, S-2, GP7, RS-3). I like the earlier diesels because the bodies were more stylish than later models (i.e. low nose diesels). I model the early modern era in HO scale (c. 1974)
Mostly Alcos - switchers and early RS units.
Not crazy about the current stuff. Modern locos are too sharp around the edges.
I model mostly CN and CP, but I also have small fleets of C&NW, Penn Central, and Burlington Northern locos.
I’ve got pretty much all I want, although I’d like to see an FM H12-44 in HO scale and an Alco S-2 in N scale.
Pictures of diesels, modeling projects, info on layout operation (what locos are used for what assignments, etc.), paint schemes, prototype and freelance modeling, etc. I’m just interested in what other diesel modelers on the forum are doing.
A friend of mine wants to Apply Alclad to an HO E-unit to make it resemble the CB&Q E5.
The question is: Does the old Proto 2000 E6 come close enough to resembling the E5? Yes, I realize the slanted nose is the main spotting feature but is that all there is?
Since P2K E6s pop up on ebay often, he hopes to snag one in any road name, paint strip it and give it the “Alclad Treatment”.
Hey, Mr. Antonio…wow…you forgot Fairbanks-Morse! Nothing like hearing those opposed piston submarine engines cranking over.
Ref: E5 From a distance the nose contour looks close enough but a close up will show you the differences. I say, go for it. I cannot imagine why, with a little detailing, you couldn’t come up with a nifty stainless steel CB&Q E5…at least it will look pretty close to one.
It’s better to be bored than broached. If you don’t think so, look up broach in a machinist’s dictionary.
So how about electric commuter trains combined with DMU commuter/short haul trains combined with heavy rail catenary motors on both passenger and freight. That’s in addition to the steam power, both mainline and short line. And don’t overlook those center-cab diesel-hydraulics.
The Faller system can’t help me much - no three wheeled trucks, and very little in the way of modeled roads…
Hmm. I know we have had two days {nearly} of no forum here, but it seems our OP hasn’t been back in since he complained.
I wonder if he has the same problem on the TRAINS forum where they talk about real 1:1 trains.
Since he has the floor, he hasn’t used it. I wonder if he found something less boring?
I found my diesels to be “funner” than I thought they would be, so I am a “Convert” of sorts. I bought one model just because they started building them the month after I was born{1:1}, so they/It is as old as I am. I liked it and bought more diesels. so now i am a differing-eras modeler.
The E5 was a CBQ only unit. Pretty much an E6, with extra stainless fluting on the sides. The E6 model would be the place to start, then add fluting and Alclad.
The extant E5 is at Illinois Railway Museum for inspection and measurement, if you are in the area of it.
I SEE that NOW…but when I posted it WASN’T there! Neither was Chuck"s second posting {tomikawaTT}. Maybe a glitch in the forum when I posted this being it is new format…and prone to such things…
I will let my friend know that he can use a P2K E6 as a starting point. For the fluting, it looks like the best route to take would be the Union Station Products HO corrugated flute panels used for their Budd car kits. Hopefully Microscale still has decals for CB&Q E-units.